Volvo Penta MD2020 raw water pump question

mattonthesea

Well-Known Member
Joined
28 Nov 2009
Messages
1,522
Location
Bristol
ayearatsea.co.uk
I've asked this on the Volvo FB site too so apologies for cross posting. It just seems that this parish has a better class of help :cool:

I've just taken the raw water pump off for repair. The inboard bolts screw into the housing whereas the outboard bolts have nuts. This makes the inboard ones difficult (expletively so) to remove without removing the engine mount first!
Is there any reason I should not drill out the housing thread and replace with external nuts (just like the outboard ones)? Thinking about the next time it needs to come off.

Thanks

M
 
Last edited:
I've asked this on the Volvo FB site too so apologies for cross posting. It just seems that this parish has a better class of help :cool:

I've just taken the raw water pump off for repair. The inboard bolts screw into the housing whereas the outboard bolts have nuts. This makes the inboard ones difficult (expletively so) to remove without removing the engine mount first!
Is there any reason I should not drill out the housing thread and replace with external nuts (just like the outboard ones)? Thinking about the next time it needs to come off.

Thanks

M
What you can do is put a slot in the end of the inboard bolts so they can be easily undone or done up with a screwdriver or ratchet with a slotted driver bit. It saves hours of short movements and turning over an open ended spanner with little room to swing.

I preffered this methid rather than drilling out the thread.
 
What you can do is put a slot in the end of the inboard bolts so they can be easily undone or done up with a screwdriver or ratchet with a slotted driver bit. It saves hours of short movements and turning over an open ended spanner with little room to swing.

I preffered this methid rather than drilling out the thread.
That is genius! I spent hours loosening these last year.... Will definitely do this next time.
 
The problem I had was initiating the removal of both nuts (on the studs and bolts), once you 'broke' the seal (corrosion, paint) it was easier. I broke the seal using a Long socket and then simply chopped up a spanner, to shorten it, it was then easier.

Jonathan
 
If you put the slot on the end of the stud that first enters the hole you can put a long thin screwdriver through the hole & wind the item into the hole from the wrong end ( for want of a better term). It is easier if you clean & oil everything before assembly so you know that all the threads offer minimal resistance
 
Surely, only holding a flat in place while undoing a nut is easier than removing the engine mount or 300 flips of a flat spanner in a space you can't see ??

Your installation must be the same as ours - I lie on top of the engine, head down to face the water pump, so I view it upside down, and my wife passes me the required tools. We have learnt what tools are needed. Strap your glasses on tightly or they fall down, or up, as the case may be. Once you get it apart you then need a gear puller (or wooden/rubber mallet) - but you will only find this out once you have the device apart.

Jonathan
 
What you can do is put a slot in the end of the inboard bolts so they can be easily undone or done up with a screwdriver or ratchet with a slotted driver bit. It saves hours of short movements and turning over an open ended spanner with little room to swing.

I preffered this methid rather than drilling out the thread.

There may be Torx or hex drives then one of those small drive kits can be used with a universal joint if in an awkward position
 
Top