Volvo Penta md2020 > D1-20 Cheap Upgrade option.

[mattnj]

i don't know if anyone is interested, but I've sort of accidently been involved in a md2020 > d1-20 hybrid upgrade/migration

to cut a long story short, if you have a dodgy md2020, you can whip it out, and change all the bits over with a "brand new" Perkins 403d-07 for about £1200-£1500 (maybe find one for less?)

You need to move over the mounts, gearbox, flywheel/housing, raw water pump etc and fiddle about a bit, but its just a mornings work and you get a drop in new engine which is the new generation engine and unbelievably smooth in comparison, starts with the easiest of flicks on the key....the only thing the only thing that's different is the stop lever mount...I've added a stop solenoid, which is mostly wired up already.

The downside if you don't get the serpentine 110a alternator, but you can add those bits from Volvo if you wanted for about £400...on the plus side you don't get all the new silly electrical panel.

Perkins 403D-07

Happy to give anyone full chapter and verse if they want to do it...
I'm sure the md2030 can be done the same way?

 

[davidej]

Interesting. I have an MD 2030 -approx 3000 hrs but still going well.

It it a common rail? If so, is that good?

Where can you get one that cheap?

 

[mattnj]

Interesting. I have an MD 2030 -approx 3000 hrs but still going well.

It it a common rail? If so, is that good?

Where can you get one that cheap?

Not common rail....still manual pump... Plenty around exstock clearance etc.

Yo could do the 2030 when it goes pop

 

[Tranona]

Interesting. I have an MD 2030 -approx 3000 hrs but still going well.

It it a common rail? If so, is that good?

Where can you get one that cheap?

This really only works if your base engine is knackered and all your Volvo marinisation bits are in really good nick. Unfortunately this is rarely the case as the 2030 is pretty indestructible and they usually become uneconomic to repair because of failure of the heat exchanger which is close to £3k to replace (plus all the other bits you find worn out when you strip it down).

I have just replaced a similar "bitza" of a Perkins M30 (slightly bigger version of the 2030) with Volvo marinisation bits added on.

On the other hand the latest Perkins/Volvo base is a good engine, although in my experience of owning both I still prefer the 2030, but that may have something to do with the installation and the way the boat was used.

 

[Neeves]

How about connection to the sail drive. I understood, possibly incorrectly that converting from the 2020 to the D1-20 demands a conversion or connection kit.

The parts are adding up .

Alternator, marinisation, sail drive connection, + + - no warranty on the bits you buy

I think a D1-20 would cost around Stg6,000....?? in the UK, installed and warranted.

Jonathan

 

[mattnj]

How about connection to the sail drive. I understood, possibly incorrectly that converting from the 2020 to the D1-20 demands a conversion or connection kit.

The parts are adding up .

Alternator, marinisation, sail drive connection, + + - no warranty on the bits you buy

I think a D1-20 would cost around Stg6,000....?? in the UK, installed and warranted.

Jonathan

there is no extra parts needed at all if you are swapping the base "core" unit....

 

[mattnj]

This really only works if your base engine is knackered and all your Volvo marinisation bits are in really good nick.

Well yes, but there isnt that much to the marinasaton bits....its just the raw water pump (cheap to fully rebuild if needed) and the heat exchanger, which in my case was mint after a clean....

a fully new (modern) 400 series perkins, to drop in the same space, same mounts, same connections etc etc etc (only took about 90mins to drop in ) for £1250...keeping the old engine mounts, alternator (£80 if you want to replace) raw water pump and heat exchanger.... is worth considering...

not to be confused also with an "good working" md2020, this 400 series is SO MUCH more refined when running...

There is always negatives, just saying if you struggling with an md2020/2030 that doesn't start well, smokes, noisy etc as in my case, I didn't want to spend the time/money/hassle of a re-engine to say a beta25 (new prop and all that extra work) for me it was a very good cheap option....

The boat isn't worth spending £6k+ on a new engine...

hopefully it helps someone, that's all I'm saying...

 

[Neeves]

Well yes, but there isnt that much to the marinasaton bits....its just the raw water pump (cheap to fully rebuild if needed) and the heat exchanger, which in my case was mint after a clean....

a fully new (modern) 400 series perkins, to drop in the same space, same mounts, same connections etc etc etc (only took about 90mins to drop in ) for £1250...keeping the old engine mounts, alternator (£80 if you want to replace) raw water pump and heat exchanger.... is worth considering...

not to be confused also with an "good working" md2020, this 400 series is SO MUCH more refined when running...

There is always negatives, just saying if you struggling with an md2020/2030 that doesn't start well, smokes, noisy etc as in my case, I didn't want to spend the time/money/hassle of a re-engine to say a beta25 (new prop and all that extra work) for me it was a very good cheap option....

The boat isn't worth spending £6k+ on a new engine...

hopefully it helps someone, that's all I'm saying...

Don't be discouraged - keep 'saying'. it will help someone (and make them think - that's what the forum is for)

You are right - it is worth considering and I would not reject it out of hand - but.... it may diminish saleability against one with a 'Volvo' D1-20 etc etc - its not only costs

Jonathan

 

[Tranona]

How about connection to the sail drive. I understood, possibly incorrectly that converting from the 2020 to the D1-20 demands a conversion or connection kit.

The parts are adding up .

Alternator, marinisation, sail drive connection, + + - no warranty on the bits you buy

I think a D1-20 would cost around Stg6,000....?? in the UK, installed and warranted.

Jonathan

Yes, it does if you are linking it to a 120 drive. However you also need a new prop because the D1 20 revs to 3200 rather than 3600rpm. The bobtail engine is under £5k (last time I looked).

 

[Neeves]

Yes, it does if you are linking it to a 120 drive. However you also need a new prop because the D1 20 revs to 3200 rather than 3600rpm. The bobtail engine is under £5k (last time I looked).

Stg5k looks about right for the UK plus or minus. You then need to add in labour for installation (assuming you want warranty - other wise you could save it) and the cost of the conversion for the 120 drive. I'd not thought of the prop - and that would not be insignificant (assuming 3 bladed folding).

I appreciate this is only justified for a yacht of some re-sale value - but you have an installation that will have no quibbles if/when you sell (or use) the yacht

If the yacht is not worth much then there are other options - which would include taking the original 2020 out - taking it home for the winter and taking the time and effort to give it a decent going over as part of which you could add a bigger alternator add a couple of coats of paint...... This will be significantly cheaper than buying a new Perkins. The cheapest option (I think) is taking the 2020 out (depends on its condition) and replacing it with an O/B - but that is another story. My next door neighbour has done that with a Bukh, old yacht (only used for local racing)

There are many ways to skin a cat.

Jonathan

 

[sedwar]

i don't know if anyone is interested, but I've sort of accidently been involved in a md2020 > d1-20 hybrid upgrade/migration

to cut a long story short, if you have a dodgy md2020, you can whip it out, and change all the bits over with a "brand new" Perkins 403d-07 for about £1200-£1500 (maybe find one for less?)

You need to move over the mounts, gearbox, flywheel/housing, raw water pump etc and fiddle about a bit, but its just a mornings work and you get a drop in new engine which is the new generation engine and unbelievably smooth in comparison, starts with the easiest of flicks on the key....the only thing the only thing that's different is the stop lever mount...I've added a stop solenoid, which is mostly wired up already.

The downside if you don't get the serpentine 110a alternator, but you can add those bits from Volvo if you wanted for about £400...on the plus side you don't get all the new silly electrical panel.

Perkins 403D-07

Happy to give anyone full chapter and verse if they want to do it...
I'm sure the md2030 can be done the same way?

Hi I'm the same situation. MD2020 with a 130S saildrive. No compression on one cylinder. All the external Volvo marine bits work. Do you have any photos and or list of jobs for the conversion pls?

 

[Hoist]

I would be VERY interested in this. We have a tired, over propped MD2020 thats a sloooowww starter so an extra 10hp would be amazing!

 

[Tranona]

I would be VERY interested in this. We have a tired, over propped MD2020 thats a sloooowww starter so an extra 10hp would be amazing!

Ae the original poster says if you have a knackered 2020 you can do a swap to the latest Perkins base engine which is used in the D1 20 as they are sold as industrial units without all the marinising gear. However it only makes sense IF you heat exchanger, water pump, mounts, exhaust elbow are in good condition. This is unlikely as those are the bits that tend to fail on old engines. Does not work if you want to upgrade to a 30 hp as none of the marinising bits fit. If your saildrive is in good nick the most sensible replacement with more power is the Beta 25 which is sold as a direct replacement for the 2020 adapted to the Volvo saildrive. If you have shaft drive then a complete package with a TMC40 reduction box is the best alternative for more power and you can choose a reduction to suit the best propeller for your boat.

 

[Hoist]

Ae the original poster says if you have a knackered 2020 you can do a swap to the latest Perkins base engine which is used in the D1 20 as they are sold as industrial units without all the marinising gear. However it only makes sense IF you heat exchanger, water pump, mounts, exhaust elbow are in good condition. This is unlikely as those are the bits that tend to fail on old engines. Does not work if you want to upgrade to a 30 hp as none of the marinising bits fit. If your saildrive is in good nick the most sensible replacement with more power is the Beta 25 which is sold as a direct replacement for the 2020 adapted to the Volvo saildrive. If you have shaft drive then a complete package with a TMC40 reduction box is the best alternative for more power and you can choose a reduction to suit the best propeller for your boat.

Its a 2001 Sail drive. 20hp engine in a 35ft boat should never have been allowed! I have been searching for a 2030 for a while, but people are asking crazy money. On our last boat we re-engined from a 3000 hour perkins perama to a 900 hour VP2030 for £1200

 

[Tranona]

Its a 2001 Sail drive. 20hp engine in a 35ft boat should never have been allowed! I have been searching for a 2030 for a while, but people are asking crazy money. On our last boat we re-engined from a 3000 hour perkins perama to a 900 hour VP2030 for £1200

Yes, those days are past. 2030s are now 20-35 years old. With my latest project boat I was hoping to get a good 2030 when I started out in 2021 but within a year they had disappeared. Realistically the lowest price replacement using a Volvo 120 saildrive is a Beta, either a 25 or 30 dependent on the displacement of your boat. However if the boat is a keeper I would be tempted to swap for a complete D1 30 with the latest 130S saildrive. You can get a good trade in for the old, mainly because usable 10 drives have a good market and sell in the £1000-1500 range.

 

[Hoist]

I've heard bad things about D1 30's if i am honest and thats what keeps me away from such.

The output shaft on the current sail drive has a lovely big groove in it, so probably a full replacement is needed.

 

[Tranona]

I've heard bad things about D1 30's if i am honest and thats what keeps me away from such.

The output shaft on the current sail drive has a lovely big groove in it, so probably a full replacement is needed.

The only real weakness in a D1 30 is the MDI unit although since the modifications in 2017/8 that no longer seems to be a problem - and the unit can be by passed if you are really worried about it. shafts on 120 drives can usually be repaired or replaced at a fraction of the cost of a new drive.