Volvo Penta MD11D Help !!!

[LadyStardust]

Having become the new proud owner of a yacht with a Volvo MD11D engine I wonder if there are any wise people out there who can help me. Searching the net, I have downloaded the sales brochure, and a manual that tells me how to rebuild the engine, but no user guide. Is there a procedure for very cold starting? whats the recommended oil change interval? Also can anyone tell me the cheapest option for oil and fuel filter replacements? Thanks to the ybw forums, i'm quite happy about the engine weight ;-) but not much else
many thanks in advance
Paul C.
Lady Stardust, baba 30 cutter, Liverpool

 

[Anonymous]

Oil change every 50 hours is what most people do though I seem to recall that Volvo state 25 hours. Ask the Volvo dealer for the oil spec - I can't remember which one they use but I think it's 15W/30. Don't buy Volvo oil, it's expensive, but do buy proper marine diesel oil - most chandleries sell it. As for filters, I always used Crossland filters on my MD11C which I bought from a local LSUK - who were usually best for the oil. LSUK will look up the part number for you or the Volvo dealer might if they are friendly.

Starting should be no problem unless the engine or injectors need servicing. 1). Make sure there is fuel up to the engine by actuating the fuel lift pump by hand. This is essential if your fuel tends to run back down to the tank after the engine has stopped. 2) In neutral, open the throttle about 2/3 of the way 3) Press the brass cold start button which should stay down 4) Turn the key and the engine should start within a few seconds - IMMEDIATELY ease the throttle back so that the engine does not run faster than around 1500 RPM during the start-up. It might be that with your engine the cold start button likes to stay down before setting the throttle. Mine always popped back out again if you did that, but others said theirs were different. What matters is that the cold start button is fully in when you start, and that you have plenty of throttle.

If you still have starting difficulties it would be a good investment to get a diesel mechanic to look it over - the injectors might need servicing, or, possibly, the compression might be low. You don't sound terribly happy with your engine; I had a 1979 MD11C from 2000 until this summer and was very happy with it. I did get a cooling problem but that turned out to be no fault of the engine. Brilliant engine, just chugged along for up to 48 hours at a time and never missed a beat.

 

[seaesta]

Two points which may help
1. If you have a weakish starter such as a Dynastart it may pay to use very low viscosity oil in cold weather. I used Mobil1 which is expensive but as thin as water at low temperatures and made starting much easier.
2. If you are careful you can get easy cold starting by squirting ONE OR TWO shots of oil into the cylinder via the air inlet. This always made my MD1 start first pull even after a winter lay-up. Be careful not to put in too much oil or you could end up with an expensive repair. I had an oil can with flexible nozzle expressly for this purpose.

 

[LadyStardust]

Thanks for the help, I'm not unhappy with my engine, just need to get to know it better!
For example, I didnt know it had a cold start button, will have to look for that, is it mechanical or electrical? I have only just taken delivery of the boat and had some fuel problems, not the fault of the engine of course, but it did cause much embarrasment upon arriving in the marina to have the engine pack in just as im approaching the pontoon
It is quite noticible that the engine does not turn as fast when first cranking from cold, and after a few minutes of cranking the speed increases , perhaps only by 5-10% but that's what it seems to need to start. So perhaps I have a electrical problem in not getting enough power to the Starter motor, or perhaps a lower viscosity oil could do the trick or both!
Thanks again,
Paul C.

Lady Stardust, Baba 30 Cutter, Liverpool

 

[Anonymous]

[ QUOTE ]
It is quite noticible that the engine does not turn as fast when first cranking from cold, and after a few minutes of cranking the speed increases , perhaps only by 5-10% but that's what it seems to need to start. So perhaps I have a electrical problem in not getting enough power to the Starter motor, or perhaps a lower viscosity oil could do the trick or both!

[/ QUOTE ]Don't ever let a marine engine crank for as long as that if it won't start as you can get water from the exhaust cooling backing up into the engine. 30 seconds cranking is normally regarded as the maximum and no diesel engine should take that long to fire. If you haven't found the cold start button, now is the time to find it! It is shown in the manual - but then the manual isn't the easiest to read - none of them are IME. Have a look at the rear of the engine (i.e. the same side as the prop shaft) and you will find a button about the size of a 5p coin, and press that in - it travels about 1cm and stays in. As I said earlier, adjust the throttle first then push the button in unless it doesn't pop out again when you adjust the throttle. If you can't see that side of the engine, and your access is to the front, you are going to have to feel round to the back - it's a bit like hugging trees! People do fit extensions to the buttons but I found that once I'd got the hang of it there was no problem.

You will not start this engine reliably without the cold start button so don't even try.

David

 

[LadyStardust]

Thanks David, I will try this tomorrow when i visit the boat, unfortunatley, that area of the engine is only 'easily' accessible from the front so I will have to practise my tree hugging skills.

Paul C

 

[Anonymous]

Paul, I think you'll find that the button is to the left hand side - i.e. your left hand will come across it - at about the same height as the top of the flywheel - and the button presses down (i.e. bilge-wards). It must then stay down so if you move the throttle you must check that it is still down afterwards. It releases itself automatically once the engine has started. Just a thought - if you have (or the broker has?) the previous owner's phone number, why not give them a ring? They might have an easy way to do it.

David

 

[LadyStardust]

Yes, Found the button, it was reluctant to stay down, but did after a few firm pushes. The engine cranked and started within 30 Seconds, a lot faster than normal, I think it might have been faster if the battery had been fully charged. Did as you suggested on the filters, good price from LSUK, they didnt seem to understand the concept of marine oil however, told me everyone else down the marina used their recommended high performance (not marine) oil. So I bought some marine oil at twice the price from the chandelry. I want to look into this and found out more about the difference. Also found the gearbox to be dry so put the same oil into that, presumably that's the norm, couldnt see anything to suggest otherwise in the manual. Now I feel a lot happier about the engine.
Many thanks,
Paul C.
Lady Stardust, Baba 30 Cutter

 

[Anonymous]

[ QUOTE ]
The engine cranked and started within 30 Seconds, a lot faster than normal, I think it might have been faster if the battery had been fully charged.

[/ QUOTE ]Still not fast enough for safety - you should be firing in 10 to 15 seconds - you might end up with water in the cylinder. Very prossibly it is due to low battery - diesels are VERY sensitive to low battery volts. Have you considered a solar panel? Everyone who ever fitted one is pleased with the result and it will improve your battery life as well[ QUOTE ]
... LSUK, they didnt seem to understand the concept of marine oil however, told me everyone else down the marina used their recommended high performance (not marine) oil.

[/ QUOTE ]I remember now having the same experience at LSUK in Falmouth. As I understand it, marine diesel has higher detergent but I am not technical in that field so can't offer advice. [ QUOTE ]
So I bought some marine oil at twice the price from the chandelry. I want to look into this and found out more about the difference.

[/ QUOTE ] I would like to learn more as well. I saw the Tescos are selling diesel oil suitable for *ALL* diesels - no caveats that I could see - at £5.95 a can! They must have product liability insurance, etc., so what gives? I wonder if there is anyone with technical knowledge of oils, who can explain it?[ QUOTE ]
Now I feel a lot happier about the engine.

[/ QUOTE ]I'm glad. Those old Volvos are very nice engines and you really feel as though you've got a proper marine diesel under your feet, not something that sounds like a London taxi!

David

 

[Anonymous]

Second point about slow starting - did you make sure that the fuel was right up to the main engine fuel filter by actuating the fuel pump by hand first? If not, much of that 30 seconds might have been the fuel lift pump getting the fuel up there.

David

 

[LadyStardust]

Thanks David,
I will look into the oil business and let you know if I find anything out, I think Car Diesel engines and their oils have made great advances in recent years, so perhaps some of the more modern oils might have the qualities needed, again, Im no expert, but i might know a man who is.
You could be right about the fuel, the tank is in the main bilge and so it's about 2 foot lower than the pump, unfortunately i don't have a manual means to pump the fuel up, the little handle on the fuel pump was snapped off by the previous owner. I will have to look into replacing the fuel pump I expect or fitting an external hand pump. I do hand crank the engine (decompressed) for a good few turns before starting, just to get some oil moving around the system, I'm not sure how much fuel will get moved this way.
Cheers, Paul C.
Lady Stardust, Baba 30 Cutter

 

[Anonymous]

Paul[ QUOTE ]
the tank is in the main bilge and so it's about 2 foot lower than the pump, unfortunately i don't have a manual means to pump the fuel up, the little handle on the fuel pump was snapped off by the previous owner. I will have to look into replacing the fuel pump I expect or fitting an external hand pump.

[/ QUOTE ]You will need the hand actuator on the pump to prime the system when air gets in - either from air injestion from surging in the tank (hopefully never) /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif or simply after draining the main filter bowl to change the filter. I think that a seperate pump would be tricky to use. I imagine it is hard to get to on your engine if you can't get to the back??[ QUOTE ]
I do hand crank the engine (decompressed) for a good few turns before starting, just to get some oil moving around the system, I'm not sure how much fuel will get moved this way.

[/ QUOTE ]I don't know how many revs of the engine = actuations of the pump but I used to hand operate the pump half a dozen or so times until I realised that if I did my filter changes with a full tank, gravity did all the hard work as the top of the tank was just higher than the filter and injectors /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Do make a point of sorting out how to bleed the whole system - fuel is the usual reason for diesels not running and in 80% of cases a bleed will be needed. You must be able to do it in the dark in bad conditions - I keep the right spanners together near the engine room just in case. Likewise for an impeller change and alternator belt change. If you are not 'into' engines it might pay to go on a diesel course - I was brought up as a very young child to be able to work on engines when needed, so I've never bothered, but I hear that they are useful and fun. Do keep in touch about the oil issue - I would love to hear some input from someone who really knows their stuff about modern oils in marine diesels, ancient and modern. Maybe you could start a new thread if you get some useful input?

David

 

[noname]

Hi,your engine sounds similar to ours,I believe if it is that the air intake filters are of a washable type rather than replaceable.
They should be removed from engine and soaked in fresh diesel ,i usually let them drain then flush through again.when no more diesel runs out i use an oil can and give a couple of squirts up the intake(long pipe)of the filter.
With regard to the cold starting our engine has a cold start button which is located at the back of the engine on the fuel pump.(it is slightly to the left of the throttle linkage)
To operate requires throttle to be open then push down cold start button,crank engine when engine begins to run back off throttle .(taking care of pulleys and other moving parts!)
This works for us on our engine but would advise you to read carefully through manuals again to confirm that yours is the same system,hopefully you have an idea what you are looking for now!
Good luck,happy sailing Dave

 

[LadyStardust]

Thanks Dave,
I found the cold starting switch and that has helped, I was wondering how to clean the air filters, but I'm planning on doing these jobs when it gets a bit warmer. F8-9 and snowing at the moment here.

Cheers

Paul C.