Volvo Penta engine stop delay

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tomcourtney

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My port engine does not stop immediately, sometimes running on for up to a minute after turning off.
The stop solenoid is clicking with the same intensity as the starboard one and all connections seem good.
After 'exercising' it with a direct 12v jump for about 20 minutes it stopped immediately on tests 1 to 4 and on test 5 there was a 6 second run on. Each consecutive test added 5 or 6 seconds run on till it 'stabilised' at about a minute delay before stopping.
Any ideas?
 
Good suggestion, would definitely rule out a solenoid problem.
Had a go last night but didn't have a spanner to fit it. Spent a fortune on all new tools when I bought the boat and can't do the first breakdown :(
Will buy a suitable spanner today. A solenoid from Volvo is £250 :(
Wish I could find a wiring diagram as double checking the wiring loom showed pin number 16 a bit shorter than the rest and looking a bit worn, it looks to be the same colour as the solenoid power feed. I need to trace it to confirm whether it's the loom from the command bridge or the engine feed loom.
I have a multimeter but haven't learned how to use it yet, all the gear no idear....
 
tomcourtney said:
Good suggestion, would definitely rule out a solenoid problem.
Had a go last night but didn't have a spanner to fit it. Spent a fortune on all new tools when I bought the boat and can't do the first breakdown :(
Will buy a suitable spanner today. A solenoid from Volvo is £250 :(
Wish I could find a wiring diagram as double checking the wiring loom showed pin number 16 a bit shorter than the rest and looking a bit worn, it looks to be the same colour as the solenoid power feed. I need to trace it to confirm whether it's the loom from the command bridge or the engine feed loom.
I have a multimeter but haven't learned how to use it yet, all the gear no idear....
Click to expand...

There should be a wiring diagram in your engine "operators manual". If you have mislaid your copy you can down load one from VP's website http://www.volvopenta.com/volvopent...lication_search/pages/publication_search.aspx

The wiring to the stop solenoid appears to be a purple wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid via pin 2 on the wiring loom
 
Thanks VicS, can't seem to download a manual but I've ordered hard copies of the Owners and Workshop manuals.
Will have to wait till the wife gets back re the wire colours as I'm colour blind so wont mess till verified.
I've organised a specialist electrical chap to come and check it out but he can't come till Tuesday.
Bit tight for time as we plan our first (ever), 7 nights with a few stopovers, 'voyage' down the Thames through London to Rochester Sailing Club, Leaving next Friday in the company of a few other boats for support.
 
tomcourtney said:
Thanks VicS, can't seem to download a manual but I've ordered hard copies of the Owners and Workshop manuals.
Click to expand...

Go to http://www.volvopenta.com/volvopent...lication_search/pages/publication_search.aspx Sitck MD30 in the engine type box and hit "search"

Pick MD30A from the list that opens

Click on "high" or "low" resolution depending on whether you want to print or just view it. Accept the disclaimer and the manual should open in new window.

(Bit slow sometimes )


I suggest you clip your meter, set to the 20volt DC range, between the terminal on the solenoid and ground ( pump body). When you turn the keyswitch to the stop position You should see the full system volts ( 12 and a little bit) read on the meter. If less suspect a poor connection somewhere between the switch and the solenoid.

If you immedeiately see the full 12 volts and it is maintained for as long as you keep the key in the stop position suspect the solenoid / stop valve
 
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Thanks again VicS (you're not near Chertsey are you :) ), got the download now my pop up blocker was the problem.
72 euros for an Owners and a Workshop Manual delivered isn't bad though. looking forward to adding them to my floating library of boaty books.
Will unwrap the Multimeter and follow your instructions, also decided to swap over the 'Y' loom connections as the starboard one is a recent replacement and the port one is original to the 1986 boat and Multimeter again if the voltage is not good on the first test.
Great fun this boating lark, don't know why underwater portholes aren't installed in the engine bay though as I seem to spend a lot of time down there without a view.
 
nigelmercier said:
And if you discover the solenoid is faulty, first find out what engine it is based on, or get the part number from the side, then get a replacement for £20 from somewhere like this http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-129-13-12v-diesel-stop-solenoid-m24-x-1-4482.html
Click to expand...

tomcourtney said:
Good link nigelmercier, I prefer to stick to Volvo parts but £20 against £250 is a no brainer for me. The 16 pin 'Y' loom connector is £210 from Volvo, can I get one of these elsewhere?
Click to expand...

Just a word of caution if you feel tempted to follow Nigels advice.

The stop valves on vehicle engines (usually) open when energised, so that you stop 'em by just switching off and allowing a spring to shut the valve.

This one appears to to close when energised , which is why you have to turn the key to a "stop" position. When the key is finally turned to the off position ( for removal) the valve will reopen.

The coil part may well be the same but there will be some differences in the valve itself.

Very possibly some scope to save a shed full of money but needs careful investigation!
 
VicS said:
Just a word of caution if you feel tempted to follow Nigels advice...
Click to expand...
Good point, well made. I wasn't suggesting that the link was a suitable item, just that they should not be that expensive. If it is a Bosch, it should be easy to find. Perhaps a more generic link is better: http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/diesel-stop-and-advance-stop-solenoids.html

Later: just found out that some are adjustable, so if it is activating but not stopping the engine, this could be a possibility.

Some handy info here, although as Vic says, it is the opposite function http://youtu.be/7C3UNVL0lTw
 
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tomcourtney said:
Thanks CeeJay, looks like the same 'Y' connector for £30 that I was quoted over £200. be talking to them on Monday.
Click to expand...

I've had a couple of orders from them for my D1-30B. It's genuine stuff. They seem to have a good knowledge of the parts that they stock, and also parts that have been superseded and by what.
CJ
 
Fuel is still getting into the cylinder to allow it to run
Is the arm to the injector pump returning fully to stop
Small amounts of fuel will allow it to run slowly or eratically
Or is that old technology from my site plant days
 
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