Volvo Penta engine info

simonfraser said:
Bruce, looks like a plan, drill it out both sides of the ram hole to basically cut the end cap in half ?
have you done this b4 ?
Click to expand...

No, it was my plan of action and I put it to the board in this thread http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?511772-Taking-time-off-to-work-on-the-boat.
My endcaps a very corroded, it may not be necessary for you to collapse yours but once you've started and mangles up your end cap it may be you get out of jail card free. I was thinking of doing this as I have nothing to loose if the engines needed to come out according to the dealer to get the pins out. I can see why the dealer would say that as it is less labour time and easier for them. However I have time and patience and can disassemble my engines enough to reach the pins. I have invested in some serious grease guns and hammers to aid pin and ram removal. Now I am going to try just replace the entire rams on a prayer the pins can come out without transom shield removal and a slide hammer approach
 
simonfraser said:
prob with all these spanners so far, i have tried 3, is that the pins are quite small and pop out of the holes with the torque applied. another member on this forum suggested having a section of 5mm steel modified with a suitable slot in the end end pins fitted. this is not something i can do myself, still trying to find some one to make one.
Click to expand...

You get these spanners with various pin sizes. The pin must fit snuggly or yes you will have these issues. You can make your own too but strangely enough the tool is cheaper than the material you will need to make one. Get the right tool.
 
They are in a better state than mine. I would just try conventional removal first. It will be tight, it will be hard but it should come off. Looking at that pic I am guessing my barrel walls have also thinned out some.
 
The 6cyl engines evolved from the MD40 which as the TMD40 produced 130hp so at 300 have eaten a load of spinach and probably maxed out there development this was VP in house design and although a few D4 were used in automotive and industrial applications the majority were marine use.
The D4/6 has some deutz input as I understand but not certain
I
 
petem said:
Going slightly back on topic (for a minute), are D4's re-buildable (new liners, etc) as KAD44/KAD300's are? Or is it just the D3's that can't be rebuilt.
Click to expand...

D4/D6 are parent bore.
I don't think replacing the short block is a regular event, unless you are planning to put 4000hrs on your engine.

(At the current rate of use, my engines will hit 4000hrs around my 125th Birthday).

.
 
Last edited:
Well I cant understand the rationale behind lifting the engines out to remove trim ram pins.
Used a grease gland cleaner to hammer / impact penetrating fluid into the transom shield.
A bolt through a socket tightened into the pin to pull
A 10k psi heavy duty grease gun to push the pin from behind and within 20 minutes of tightening the bolt and pumping the grease gun she slid out. I've wasted 100 quid on the Volvo grease hammer special tool which never got to see grease. It's a rubbish tool anyway. If anyone ever is tempted to buy it the grease gland cleaner is by far better built and 1/3 the price.

Chuffed as all hell. Just saved myself a massive labour bill.
 
BruceK said:
Well I cant understand the rationale behind lifting the engines out to remove trim ram pins.
Used a grease gland cleaner to hammer / impact penetrating fluid into the transom shield.
A bolt through a socket tightened into the pin to pull
A 10k psi heavy duty grease gun to push the pin from behind and within 20 minutes of tightening the bolt and pumping the grease gun she slid out. I've wasted 100 quid on the Volvo grease hammer special tool which never got to see grease. It's a rubbish tool anyway. If anyone ever is tempted to buy it the grease gland cleaner is by far better built and 1/3 the price.

Chuffed as all hell. Just saved myself a massive labour bill.
Click to expand...

The other way if that doesn't work is to use an angle grinder to cut through the rams to remove and then with the pin exposed, cut a deep groove, then with a chisel etc use a hammer to knock them out. Saved on the cost of having my engine removed.
 
Regarding loosening of the trimcylinder end cap there is a company in Sweden that sells this tool for around £40.
tappverktyg-heavy-duty-for-mutter-powertrimkolv-alla-med-4st-hal
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top