Volvo Penta D4 (& D6) Fresh water flushing

[stelican]

I have a Volvo TAMD31A. with the sea water impeller before the strainer. I fitted a 3 way ball valve to the hose before the sea water pump.
The third inlet/outlet on the valve is fitted with a reducer to take the Gardena type hose fitting.
Normal operation the valve is set to 1 and 2 inlet/outlet open. When I want to fresh water flush engine simply divert flow on valve.
The third position can also be used to run antifreeze through the raw/seawater side of engine or as an emergency bilge pump.

 

[Orthop]

VP offers a Neutral Salt System, which seems to work well. Would this be an alternative to the proposals above and has anyone installed this system...

Volvo Penta Neutra-salt | Neutra-Salt engine flushing kit | Volvopentashop.com

 

[gordmac]

Rather than start a new thread I thought to add to this one. I have tried to run my D6 with DPH outdrive with both round and rectangular muffs, best I could get with the engine running was water a bit up the tube in the strainer. The location and design of the intake meant a lot of water leaking, anyone found a set of muffs that actually work on a DPH? Alternatively is there a water bag or similar that can be attached to the outdrive big enough to contain the prop shaft?
Advice much appreciated.

 

[sap_2000]

Flush bags big enough for a DPH drive does exist if you google a bit.

Other option is to trim the drive up, disconnect the S-tube that brings the sea water from the drive to transom plate and stick a garden hose in it and start engine.
Also you can use a 30mm plastic drain pipe, stick it into the S-hose and point the pipe down into a big bucket.
When starting the engine, it always helps to stick the garden hose into the pipe and pressure feed it. Once the impeller grabs water it will have no problem to suck water from a bucket even if its 1 meter below the boat.

Or buy an outdrive bag...

 

[gordmac]

Thanks. I did Google outdrive flush bag but outboard ones are what comes up. They aren't cheap!
I didn't think about disconnecting the water pipe, a possibility but flushing on muffs would save a lot of faff, somebody musd do something suitable.

 

[ss2016]

I am new to motorboats VP and outdrives. I have a D6 /DPI. I have been reading lots of the threads about flushing.
When the VP service organisation winterised my engine they simply took the lid off the water strainer, started by pouring antifreeze in as the engine was started and tipped in perhaps 2 galls and then stopped the engine as it was consumed. Is this an adequate way of winterising it? Does it adequately flush the system? If one wanted much more fresh water through the engine with the boat in the water (or out) could the same approach not be used with a hosepipe as long as the flow is adequate?
PS VP does not appear to make much of an issue of this in the maintenance schedule.

 

[ChromeDome]

.. simply took the lid off the water strainer, started by pouring antifreeze in as the engine was started and tipped in perhaps 2 galls and then stopped the engine as it was consumed.

This is what many of us do when winterizing.

Being against throwing money away, I collect the engines' coolant (some 10 liters each) when changing that, then reuse it for the strainers (sea water side).

Edit: For starting on the hard I've made an extra strainer lid with a Gardena connector. Works fine at idle but the hose flow rate isn't sufficient at more rpm. Of course works for flushing then launched also.

 

[gordmac]

I am looking for something that would let me warm the oil for servicing on the hard. Being lazy muffs seem the easiest option!
Modifying a lid to feed water in is another option, need to make sure the impeller was used to pump round I suppose. How easy is it to drill the perspex lid?
I made up a hose to connect to the pump inlet which draws from a bucket for flushing with antifreeze, they do use a lot of water!

 

[ChromeDome]

I am looking for something that would let me warm the oil for servicing on the hard.
How easy is it to drill the perspex lid?

You didn't ask, but I'll give you my view on oil changes anyway:

Oil doesn't go off - it wears, so leave it in until next season. Launch boat, run it properly until normal temp (working for approx. 20 minutes - not idling). Then change oil and filter.
Reason: On modern engines crank vents are not open. They're closed in that any fumes are routed back to the engine - not out. Hence condensation (=water in the oil) is minimal. During winter layup there is a small risk that corrosion et al will build up on internal parts, and however rare it is, it can be mitigated by the oil (as cooling and cleaning is important tasks for the oil). By running it until properly hot any humidity will be boiled out and the any corrosion type pollution will be contained in the oil. By changing at that point you'll start out in the next season with a clean engine and fresh oil & filter.

Perspex is easy to drill,- Plenty on Youtube about it. Polycarbonate is stronger yet easier to work on.

 

[gordmac]

Thanks. I wouldn't disagree with you as that is what I would normally do. Unfortunately my boat was damaged and repairs won't start for 3 months. I was thinking it was something to do whilst waiting. I could also change the belt but that requires re tensioning when warm. Due to the damage I wasn't able to flush the salt water and winterize either so running the engine would at least flush the heat exchangers albeit six months late. Mind you perhaps I should strip and clean the exchangers, I believe that should be done every five years or so.

 

[ChromeDome]

Thanks. I wouldn't disagree with you as that is what I would normally do. Unfortunately my boat was damaged and repairs won't start for 3 months. I was thinking it was something to do whilst waiting. I could also change the belt but that requires re tensioning when warm. Due to the damage I wasn't able to flush the salt water and winterize either so running the engine would at least flush the heat exchangers albeit six months late. Mind you perhaps I should strip and clean the exchangers, I believe that should be done every five years or so.

Yep, and will keep you occupied for some time

 

[ss2016]

This is what many of us do when winterizing.

Being against throwing money away, I collect the engines' coolant (some 10 liters each) when changing that, then reuse it for the strainers (sea water side).

Edit: For starting on the hard I've made an extra strainer lid with a Gardena connector. Works fine at idle but the hose flow rate isn't sufficient at more rpm. Of course works for flushing then launched also.

CD - thanks for your thoughts. Makes sense to me.

 

[Seastoke]

Do D6 have stainless exhaust elbows

 

[gordmac]

Yep, and will keep you occupied for some time

I believe you have to dismantle a lot to get at them. Need to see if I can find a guide online.

 

[ChromeDome]

I believe you have to dismantle a lot to get at them. Need to see if I can find a guide online.

Youtube certainly will have a few. I'd check several to sort of get a complete view before getting the toolset out

 

[gordmac]

In case it helps others, I bought Osculati 52.749.01 VP muffs from eBay. They aren't long enough to go on from the rear but fitting from the bottom and with a bit of messing about, despite a lot of leakage, I managed to get a flow from the exhaust.

 

[ss2016]

Can I just use normal car antifreeze in the SALTwater side of the VP - D6 cooling system for winterizing? If not, what?

 

[gordmac]

Yes you can. Flush through with fresh water then antifreeze as per the manual.

 

[ChromeDome]

And do stick to the label re. dilution.
Undiluted antifreeze provides close to no freeze protection!

 

[ss2016]

Thnks!