Volvo Penta Control Lever

[emandvee44]

On Friday we launched the boat, started the engine, checked for cooling water flow, and water ingress (re plumbed the forward heads over winter). After a few minutes, let go lines and put the engine aster to leave the dock. The control lever was very stiff and made a loud noise (graunching) when moved.
Made it to our berth with minimum engine movements.
Today opened up the assembly and after liberal use of penetrating oil and WD40, the lever became a bit easier to move and the noise disappeared. It is however still very stiff.

It is disappointing that the control lever box is not watertight, and that most of the metal parts are mild steel.
I am inclined to replace the whole assembly.
Has anyone done this and is it within the average person’s capabilities?

Cheers,

Michael.

 

[superheat6k]

The mechanisms are fairly simple. Might be worth getting some oil into the actual cable ends, plus some hammerite to the rusted support frame. Flash plated steel is not ideal for boat bits in exposed places.

For the general mechanism PTFE spray lubricant is less messy than grease.

 

[nigelmercier]

I've just replaced mine, and took the opportunity to replace the cables. Changing just the lever took about an hour, most of that was drilling out the rusted screws. I replaced them with stainless cap head ones, and gave the side plate a coat of 2-pack primer. From now on I'm going to keep a cover on it, as I also have a "trim"switch on the lever, which drives my bow thruster.

Note that WD-40 is a very poor lubricant, and Hammerite is now rubbish.

 

[superheat6k]

... and Hammerite is now rubbish.

Interesting remark - do you know what they have done to it as I used to find it excellent ?

 

[ghostlymoron]

I've used new and old hammerite and agree with Nigel that the new stuff is nowhere near as good as the old. The new stuff is water based so at least the brushes are easy to clean whereas the old was some smelly solvent and needed a special brush cleaner.

 

[RichardS]

I've used new and old hammerite and agree with Nigel that the new stuff is nowhere near as good as the old. The new stuff is water based so at least the brushes are easy to clean whereas the old was some smelly solvent and needed a special brush cleaner.

I used to use acetone to clean the "old Hammerite" brushes as white spirit wouldn't work.

I used some "new Hammerite" this weekend and cleaned the brushes perfectly with white spirit. I didn't read the tin so didn't even try water! Will read it later today.

Richard

 

[RichardS]

I used to use acetone to clean the "old Hammerite" brushes as white spirit wouldn't work.

I used some "new Hammerite" this weekend and cleaned the brushes perfectly with white spirit. I didn't read the tin so didn't even try water! Will read it later today.

Richard

Just checked the tin of my "new Hammerite" bought last week and it say "High VOC - Volatile Organic Compound, Clean brushes with Hammerite Brush Cleaner and Thinner".

So it's not water based but is a different formulation than the old stuff as white spirit can be used as cleaner rather than acetone.

Richard

 

[pvb]

Petrol was excellent for cleaning old Hammerite off brushes.

 

[pvb]

I've used new and old hammerite and agree with Nigel that the new stuff is nowhere near as good as the old. The new stuff is water based so at least the brushes are easy to clean whereas the old was some smelly solvent and needed a special brush cleaner.

I think the current Hammerite for interior metal is water-based, but all the rest seem to be spirit-based.

 

[Daydream believer]

Petrol was excellent for cleaning old Hammerite off brushes.

used in conjunction with a cigarette lighter

 

[prv]

I am inclined to replace the whole assembly.
Has anyone done this and is it within the average person’s capabilities?

Yes, we replaced Ariam's engine control this winter. In our case it was a bit fiddly due to the confined space inside the binnacle and close proximity to the steering gear, but yours looks dead easy.

Only bit of advice is to carefully note where the gear cable was attached so that you can refit it in the same place on the new unit. There are typically four options to suit different installations.

Pete

 

[emandvee44]

Thanks Pete,
I had thought the thread was drifting off to Hammerite land.
Is your engine control the same as mine? I looked in Keyparts last night but could only find control units which were not the same as mine.

M.

 

[pvb]

I looked in Keyparts last night but could only find control units which were not the same as mine.

Your control looks like a Volvo Penta branded Teleflex SL3. You'll find this on Keyparts, but there's no picture of it. It's also a similar price at MarineScene, where there's a photo of it - http://www.marinescene.co.uk/product/2642/teleflex-morse-sl3-top-mount-control

 

[prv]

Is your engine control the same as mine?

No, mine is a side-mount, but the principle should be the same.

Pete

 

[emandvee44]

Thanks for the advice everyone.
Now I know the model a google search shows asap as stockists although they have three models which look the same!

Cheers,

M.

 

[pvb]

Now I know the model a google search shows asap as stockists although they have three models which look the same!

But they're not the same, if you read the descriptions. The 2 more expensive versions have either a trim switch or trim/tilt switches incorporated in the handle.

 

[nigelmercier]

And if you have a bow thruster, the trim switch is perfect for it.

 

[Hadenough]

And if you have a bow thruster, the trim switch is perfect for it.

+1 but don't start them (the why do you need a bow thruster brigade) off again!