Volvo Penta 3587072 starter switch pinouts?

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My Bavaria 47 has a Volvo Penta 3587072 starter switch. The wiring diagram has me confused
switch.gif


As far as I remember, I only have 4 positions (Stop, Off, On, Start) and I'm pretty sure I don't have Glow-Plugs.

Can anyone clarify these pinouts?
 
[ QUOTE ]
My Bavaria 47 has a Volvo Penta 3587072 starter switch. The wiring diagram has me confused
switch.gif


As far as I remember, I only have 4 positions (Stop, Off, On, Start) and I'm pretty sure I don't have Glow-Plugs.

Can anyone clarify these pinouts?

[/ QUOTE ]

If you look at this in relation to contacts operated there are only 4 positions.
 
Wiring diagrams are in older owners manuals but not newer ones.

What engine ? Can then download a manual possibly

But I make it 5 positions

S=stop,
O = Off,
I= On (normal running position),
II = glowplugs and earthing relay energised where fitted,
III = Start


S is the connection to the stop solenoid (purple or violet wire)

30 is the incoming positive connection (Red wire)

15a may not have any connections It'll be for auxillary circuits that are swtiched on with the "ignition"

15b is the supply to the electronic module and other instruments eg tacho (Blue/red wires)

19 is the supply to the glowplug relay and earthing relay (orange wire)

50 is the supply to the starting relay red/yellow wire.


But tell us the engine model and we can double check

or you can find a manual with a wiring diagram at http://www.volvo.com/volvopenta/global/e...tion_search.htm
 
Pretty sure you do have glow plugs. There should be a red warning light on the lower part of the panel below the switch. It is pretty much invisible, particularly in strong daylight. Look at it at night with the switch in the glowplug position as VicS indicates. You can also double check your engine as the plugs are very obvious - one for each cylinder connected by a wire.

My Volvo panel does away with these complications by having an on/off button, a spring loaded switch for the glow plugs, rather helpfully labled "Glow Plugs" and a starter button. I guess this is the idiots version, but suits me!
 
Yes. Obvious downside is potential lack of security but guess one could mount a hidden switch in the power supply to the panel if you were worried.

Not sure they used my panel for long. Most other Bavarias I have seen use the same switch as on Big Niges boat. Expect its operation including the glow plugs is covered in the owners manual.
 
Wiring diagrams are in older owners manuals but not newer ones.

What engine ? Can then download a manual possibly

But I make it 5 positions

S=stop,
O = Off,
I= On (normal running position),
II = glowplugs and earthing relay energised where fitted,
III = Start


S is the connection to the stop solenoid (purple or violet wire)

30 is the incoming positive connection (Red wire)

15a may not have any connections It'll be for auxillary circuits that are swtiched on with the "ignition"

15b is the supply to the electronic module and other instruments eg tacho (Blue/red wires)

19 is the supply to the glowplug relay and earthing relay (orange wire)

50 is the supply to the starting relay red/yellow wire.


But tell us the engine model and we can double check

or you can find a manual with a wiring diagram at http://www.volvo.com/volvopenta/global/e...tion_search.htm
I know this is an ancient post. My switch looks as if it’s given up the ghost. Turn right to on, no life, turn a fraction more to spring resistance and the panel lights up
Turn a bit more and I think the glow plugs get lit up.
Turn a bit more and the starter cranks and the engine starts
Turn to left against spring resistance past off and the engine stops.
My worry is that the neutral position, no spring gives a slight illumination of the panel and the rev counter works, just, and damage may be caused by the not connecting properly
I think the switch, new 14 years ago, is worn and not contacting properly in the on position.
My thoughts are:
Test it by jumping the red power to red and blue for the panel, it should light it up?
Leave connected, so ignition is on
Jump red to red/ yellow to activate the starter
Jump red to orange to activate glow to test and
Jump red to violet to test the stop.
My big question is do I leave red to red and blue, basically I gnition on, whilst doing all the others?
I have cleaned the spade terminals on the relays at the side of the engine, I have had trouble with these before.
Stu
 
I know this is an ancient post. My switch looks as if it’s given up the ghost. Turn right to on, no life, turn a fraction more to spring resistance and the panel lights up
Turn a bit more and I think the glow plugs get lit up.
Turn a bit more and the starter cranks and the engine starts
Turn to left against spring resistance past off and the engine stops.
My worry is that the neutral position, no spring gives a slight illumination of the panel and the rev counter works, just, and damage may be caused by the not connecting properly
I think the switch, new 14 years ago, is worn and not contacting properly in the on position.
My thoughts are:
Test it by jumping the red power to red and blue for the panel, it should light it up?
Leave connected, so ignition is on
Jump red to red/ yellow to activate the starter
Jump red to orange to activate glow to test and
Jump red to violet to test the stop.
My big question is do I leave red to red and blue, basically I gnition on, whilst doing all the others?
I have cleaned the spade terminals on the relays at the side of the engine, I have had trouble with these before.
Stu
Ive found these in Ireland, look like a clone but a good price Starter Switch Volvo 3587072
So test tomorrow and confirm if shagged and then buy a new one of these!
 
Ive found these in Ireland, look like a clone but a good price Starter Switch Volvo 3587072
So test tomorrow and confirm if shagged and then buy a new one of these!
I'm not sure what you'll get from that link . I'm wondering why it says "fits Volvo 3587072"
The switch , part number 3587072, is €241 on the official parts list. €76 seems too good to be true for an OEM part although after market replacements can be that sort of price or even less (see Ignition Switches )

Re your earlier question about jumping Red to red-blue; yes you can leave it connected while testing the other circuits. Red-blue is the +ve power to all the circuits within the control panel eg electronic module, tacho etc

I'm away from home and access to all my info at the moment so relying on my memory which is well past its best before date.
 
I know this is an ancient post. My switch looks as if it’s given up the ghost. Turn right to on, no life, turn a fraction more to spring resistance and the panel lights up
Turn a bit more and I think the glow plugs get lit up.
Turn a bit more and the starter cranks and the engine starts
Turn to left against spring resistance past off and the engine stops.
So everything is working as it should, apart from the ON position
My worry is that the neutral position, no spring gives a slight illumination of the panel and the rev counter works, just, and damage may be caused by the not connecting properly
I think the switch, new 14 years ago, is worn and not contacting properly in the on position.
Sounds right.
My thoughts are:
Test it by jumping the red power to red and blue for the panel, it should light it up?
Red is +VE. red and blue powers the panel
Leave connected, so ignition is on
Jump red to red/ yellow to activate the starter
Jump red to orange to activate glow to test and
Jump red to violet to test the stop.
I don't see any point in additional tests, paragraph one above confirms the other positions work.
My big question is do I leave red to red and blue, basically I gnition on, whilst doing all the others?
I have cleaned the spade terminals on the relays at the side of the engine, I have had trouble with these before.
Stu
If jumping the red/red and blue cure the problem, bite the bullet and replace the switch.

A temporary fix in this situation could be to jump red/red and blue and leave the jumper in place. When not using the engine just turn the isolator off.
 
So everything is working as it should, apart from the ON position

Sounds right.

Red is +VE. red and blue powers the panel

I don't see any point in additional tests, paragraph one above confirms the other positions work.

If jumping the red/red and blue cure the problem, bite the bullet and replace the switch.

A temporary fix in this situation could be to jump red/red and blue and leave the jumper in place. When not using the engine just turn the isolator off.
Many thanks. I put in a bypass to switch the panel on. It worked fine. I took the switch apart but not the springs and balls part! Flooded it with wd40 and lube spray. It was still wonky. Put it all back together and the bypass worked Yhe the starter relay started playing up. Fitted a new one and all was good. Then! All of a sudden, it started working as it should! What!
I can only assume some verdigris or wear on the springs and balls bit. The sprays worked their magic? Anyway, I’ll get one of those cheap ones from Ireland and bring it out next time. The important thing, thanks to Paul and Vic I had the confidence to make up a bypass.
 
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