Volvo Penta 2003.....bringing back to life.

[aquaholic]

The engine on my project boat (contest 33) has not been started for 2 maybe 3 years, the previous owner could only tell me that it had failed to start in the then, new season although there had been no problems previously.
My initial thoughts were to throw out and replace once I got to that stage although now I am wondering about getting someone to look at. I am no engineer but can do my own servicing and have some mechanical knowledge. My concern is how I should deal with the fuel system as have no idea if infected with the bug, is it practical to clean the tank out or should I simply replace it, looks like it's original 1971 stainless tank. Any advice appreciated and also tips on what to go through before attempting to start it.
thanks.

 

[RichardS]

Can you take a sample from the diesel tank? Either through a tank drain of from the feed to the filter a just siphoning some out via a pipe pushed down the filler pipe. A quick look at the diesel should confirm most of what you want to know.

Check that the oil and coolant look OK (if freshwater cooled) and check the raw water impeller looks OK. Release the compressor is applicable and try turning over the engine with a spanner on the crankshaft nut. If you can turn it 360 degrees you are in business. Try and start the engine with the seawater cock closed. If it starts open the cock. If it doesn't start after a couple of goes spray some starter fluid or WD40 or some diesel directly into the air intake (remove the mesh filter). Try and get it to fire using the spray and if it fires be ready to open the cock if it starts to run properly. If it runs for a few seconds and then stops you have a fuel supply problem and can start a proper hunt for air in the fuel lines etc.

Richard

 

[philwebb]

'Hi Aquaholic, why don't you try to start it before thinking about replacement. It may be a perfectly good engine. Will it turn over with a fully charged battery? If so there's a good chance it can be made to work. If the engine is free, have a look at the main filter. Is it clogged up with brown gunge? If so replace it and bleed the air out. Is there fuel at the engine? Try loosening a banjo on the injectors and check fuel is coming out. If you have fuel here with no bubbles tighten up the banjo and see if the engine will start. You could try a spray or two of Easy-Start in the air intake if it is reluctant. I am assuming the boat is still in the water and there is cooling water. If you are out of the water you will have to set up a hosepipe to supply cooling water, although you can run for a minute or two without coolant. The impeller may suffer but it should be changed anyway if the engine is useable. Give it a go what have you got to lose?
Regards, Phil

 

[seaangler23]

I'd check all the fluids are alright then if it will turn over with a spanner on the crankshaft try turning it over with the starter motor for a few seconds at a time with the kill cord pulled to get the oil moving before you try start it, if it hasn't been run in years it's be dry and wouldn't be good to start it. Just try it if it goes your in luck if not try bleeding the fuel system up to injectors, if it's getting fuel and not showing any signs of starting it may be more in depth

 

[aquaholic]

Thanks for the responses, will go through the checks as suggested and feed back.

 

[Len Ingalls]

In addition to all the previous posts-I suggest you remove the fuel hose at the outlet of the primary filter & insert it in a liter or 2 container of new clean diesel. This will eliminate the likely possibility of old crap fuel in tank.

Cheers/ Len

 

[RIBW]

......(If) Release the compressor is applicable ....... try turning over the engine with a spanner on the crankshaft nut. ...................Richard

Hi Aq, It is not immediately obvious from any document I have seen, but the 2003 compressor lever (if you have one - later models do not) releases compression on all cylinders in the vertical position. Rotating the lever through a further 45deg puts compression on one cylinder IIRC.

Also, because the 2003 has no glowplug, it has a very specific cold start procedure (which is well documented). My version is:-
1. Ensure gearbox is disengaged
2. Swing throttle to 'max revs' position
3. Pull stop lever sharply to its full extent
4. Push stop lever sharply back to its 'engine running' position
5. Press the start button

Good Luck
Bob

 

[joha]

My 2003 t was laid up for nearly 5 years. It had been laid up by a Volvo Tech and readied for use by the same people and started on the first push of the button. It has run with no problems for the last 4 years. Its a bit smokey when first started but I am told that this is normal for these engines and it soon clears. The only issue I have had was that I didn't change the coolant at the recommended interval and it went sludgey which caused it to run hot. Flushed the system and all is back to normal. Quite hapy with it, it has loads of power and surprisingly frugal.

John

 

[seaangler23]

I don't know if it's a common issue on them but I came across one with some rust in the water passages, there's a block drain below the heat exchanger and I couldn't get any coolant out it, just black sludge/rust even after a poke about, very strange for non raw water cooled ( might have been previously as it was a replacement) anyway it won't stop it starting but if it has been layed up have a look, I used a infra red temp probe around the block and it didn't seem to be causing hot spots.

 

[aquaholic]

Thanks again for the advice guys, think I will start making a list of all the points made.

 

[Slowtack]

Prime for a few minutes using the hand lever on the fuel pump. If you dont have return fuel going back continuously to the tank there may be an air leak

 

[rotrax]

Hi Aq, It is not immediately obvious from any document I have seen, but the 2003 compressor lever (if you have one - later models do not) releases compression on all cylinders in the vertical position. Rotating the lever through a further 45deg puts compression on one cylinder IIRC.

Also, because the 2003 has no glowplug, it has a very specific cold start procedure (which is well documented). My version is:-
1. Ensure gearbox is disengaged
2. Swing throttle to 'max revs' position
3. Pull stop lever sharply to its full extent
4. Push stop lever sharply back to its 'engine running' position
5. Press the start button

Good Luck
Bob

Second the above.

On the one we had in a Gibsea 96 I had to use a small-less than a second-squirt of easystart direct into the air intake as the cold start operated by pulling the stop cable in and out fully was defective. It could have been fixed, but by rotating the air intake tube so it was upwards a touch of ether based starting fluid lit it up. Once going it was fine for the rest of the trip, starting readily from cold even after a day or two.

Now we are going to get the naysayers telling me that the engine "gets used" to starting fluid and it knackers them!

That is not true unless they are totally knackered to start with or the starting fluid is squirted into the intake while cranking or in exessive quantities.................................

 

[RichardS]

Now we are going to get the naysayers telling me that the engine "gets used" to starting fluid and it knackers them!

Engines don't "get used to it" but they do get "addicted to it". Going cold turkey is the only solution. :encouragement:

Richard

 

[seaangler23]

The one I worked on didn't have a fuel return line and the primer pump is pretty feeble it's just a diaphragm lift pump, better just cracking the bleed screw on top of the fuel filter and pumping until the bubbles clear

 

[rotrax]

Engines don't "get used to it" but they do get "addicted to it". Going cold turkey is the only solution. :encouragement:

Richard

Not so, unless, as I stated they have an underlying problem or are knackered.

During the winter of 1969 when we had three weeks of sub zero tempretures and heavy snow I worked keeping twenty London black cabs going-the poxy ones with the crappy old BMC 2.2 and 2.5 diesels.

The old lead acid HD 6v batteries in series were not at their best in sub zero tempretures.

Once running, with the help of our heavy duty starting pack-mounted on a full sized sack barrow-they were fine for the rest of their shift.

Once the tempretures got above freezing they were mostly OK, except for a couple that had yet to be converted to alternator from dynamo's. The use for most of the shift with heaters, wipers and lights on gradually ran the batteries down.

Starting fluids are not a good thing but in some situations, with some diesel engines which are often problematical in their starting, they can be a help. More than a help-often the only way to light one up without overheating and destroying the starter motor or circuit.

The only time an engine requires starting fluid at all times is when it is Donald Ducked.

IMHO, of course-backed up by 50 years of involvement with engines of all kinds.

 

[RichardS]

Not so, unless, as I stated they have an underlying problem or are knackered.

During the winter of 1969 when we had three weeks of sub zero tempretures and heavy snow I worked keeping twenty London black cabs going-the poxy ones with the crappy old BMC 2.2 and 2.5 diesels.

The old lead acid HD 6v batteries in series were not at their best in sub zero tempretures.

Once running, with the help of our heavy duty starting pack-mounted on a full sized sack barrow-they were fine for the rest of their shift.

Once the tempretures got above freezing they were mostly OK, except for a couple that had yet to be converted to alternator from dynamo's. The use for most of the shift with heaters, wipers and lights on gradually ran the batteries down.

Starting fluids are not a good thing but in some situations, with some diesel engines which are often problematical in their starting, they can be a help. More than a help-often the only way to light one up without overheating and destroying the starter motor or circuit.

The only time an engine requires starting fluid at all times is when it is Donald Ducked.

IMHO, of course-backed up by 50 years of involvement with engines of all kinds.

I though the reference to "addiction" and "cold turkey" plus the smiley would give the game away but I'm obviously not as funny as I think I am.

Are you my Wife by any chance?

Richard

 

[rotrax]

OOPS- I missed that..................