mick
Well-Known Member
I would be interested in comments, positive and negative, from anyone with experience of this engine. Is it true it doesn't have glow plugs and is hard to start? Is it fresh-water cooled? All comments gratefully eceived.
Volvo Penta 2002
- Thread starter mick
- Start date
reeac
Well-Known Member
The VP doesn't have glow plugs and doesn't need them as it's direct injection. For a cold start you set full throttle, operate the cold start control and turn the key. Our 1987 model always starts first time. I understand that they are susceptible to valve seat corrosion which affects compression and hence cold starting but I believe that ours had a top overhaul about 10 years ago as someone believed [wrongly, I understand] that the head gasket was leaking. Any subsequent start the same day doesn't require the cold start procedure and is, again, immediate. We do about 60 engine hours per annum and don't need to add any oil but I don't know how many hours the engine has done.
Regarding cooling, some are fresh water and some are salt water cooled. I imagine that the former would last longer as corrosion should normally be the limiting factor on life.
The other significant issue is that of the splined drive between engine and gearbox. Ours showed some signs of wear/corrosion so I had it converted in 2003.
Overall. I'm pretty happy with our VP2002. We had overheating problems once which required a new thermostat and we've had corrosion of a solenoid terminal a few times but the basic engine is very sound after 22 years.
MoodySabre
Well-Known Member
I have a 2003 which is the same only 3 cylinder. They do not have glow plugs so can be slow to start in the winter. There is a prescribed cold start routine (throttle open wide, pull out the stop lever and push it back in, turn the key) that is essential all year round. In the summer mine starts in say 2-3 seconds but in the winter may take 10. So healthy batteries are needed.
Some are raw water cooled and some are fresh water cooled.
Some are raw water cooled and some are fresh water cooled.
chiefeng
Well-Known Member
Hi
It doesn't have glow plugs. I've never had any trouble starting mine. Just go through the cold start proceedure, 3/4 throttle, pull the stop lever and push it back in, turn the key.
It is suscepable to air in the fuel system (uneven running, especially at low revs), so make sure all the connections are tight.
The splines on the output shaft can be problamatic, there is a kit to upgrade if required.
They can be fresh water cooled, but many aren't.
The injector pockets or more specifically the sealing rings at the bottom are a pain to get out, but the good news is the head is a doddle to get off. While it is off, always a good time to ensure the cooling passageways are clear (the drain on SW cooled models has a tendancy to get silted up, well, mine does!). Renew the annode regularly.
Volvo parts are not cheap. Keyparts (no connection) I found to give good service at reasonable prices.
Regular oil (non synthetic) and filter changes is always a good idea (on any engine).
I find it economical on fuel (it's pushing a 4 ton boat) and straight forward to maintain.
Hope this helps
Rgds
Bob
It doesn't have glow plugs. I've never had any trouble starting mine. Just go through the cold start proceedure, 3/4 throttle, pull the stop lever and push it back in, turn the key.
It is suscepable to air in the fuel system (uneven running, especially at low revs), so make sure all the connections are tight.
The splines on the output shaft can be problamatic, there is a kit to upgrade if required.
They can be fresh water cooled, but many aren't.
The injector pockets or more specifically the sealing rings at the bottom are a pain to get out, but the good news is the head is a doddle to get off. While it is off, always a good time to ensure the cooling passageways are clear (the drain on SW cooled models has a tendancy to get silted up, well, mine does!). Renew the annode regularly.
Volvo parts are not cheap. Keyparts (no connection) I found to give good service at reasonable prices.
Regular oil (non synthetic) and filter changes is always a good idea (on any engine).
I find it economical on fuel (it's pushing a 4 ton boat) and straight forward to maintain.
Hope this helps
Rgds
Bob
billcole
Well-Known Member
There was a modification done to solve the spline wear problem. I think serial numbers later than 2300059128 should be OK
Skysail
Well-Known Member
We had a 2003 which fitted the descriptions above. Starting was OK when you followed the process. The exhaust elbow was prone to silting up and needs regular checking.
samwise
Well-Known Member
You can retrofit a fresh water cooling system. The Volvo one is quite expensive, there is (or was) another aftermarket kit (name escapes me) but that is not such a neat and possibly durable installation with lots of visible extra pipework.
homa
Well-Known Member
VP 2002
I've been running a VP 2002 (approx 10 yrs old) for the last 4 years.
The engine has been very reliable to date, and always starts first time. I always use the cold start method, even in the summer.
No complaints so far, only thing I would say is that, there is no hand crank, so you cannot hand start it. And for this reason, I fitted a dedicated engine start battery when I bought the boat.
Volvo's have a reputation for being expensive on spares. On the other hand, there is an awfull lot of Volvo's around and some quite old models, most running quite reliably.
Not sure if they are that much more expensive on spares than some of the Japanese engines. I remember the high cost of spare parts for my Yanmar on a previous boat.
I've been running a VP 2002 (approx 10 yrs old) for the last 4 years.
The engine has been very reliable to date, and always starts first time. I always use the cold start method, even in the summer.
No complaints so far, only thing I would say is that, there is no hand crank, so you cannot hand start it. And for this reason, I fitted a dedicated engine start battery when I bought the boat.
Volvo's have a reputation for being expensive on spares. On the other hand, there is an awfull lot of Volvo's around and some quite old models, most running quite reliably.
Not sure if they are that much more expensive on spares than some of the Japanese engines. I remember the high cost of spare parts for my Yanmar on a previous boat.
mick
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all comments. Greatly appreciated.
johnalison
Well-Known Member
My sea-water cooled 2002 had a hand start. It was a bit tricky but I did get it going from time to time, purely for practice. The replacement engine (head gasket etc etc) was fresh-water cooled and did not have hand start.
Not all Volvo parts are expensive - the shaft seal is good value. When I had a water pump serviced the Volvo service kit was about £80 and the engineer told me the Yanmar equivalent would have been about £140, around 1995.
coble
New Member
I inherited one in a boat I bought and of course it seized over the first winter (leaking head gasket). I freed it uo with boiling oil in the pots and manipulation of the pistons with a lump hammer. Also took the opportunity to flush out half the river tyne from the cooling ports in the block. It has no instruments and doesn't miss a beat. Cold start is as described earlier (2 seconds in summer, 10 or so in winter). You need to shop around for parts (starter on ebay was £118). A good basic diesel in my view.