Volvo MD2030D - How to remove the square bolt to drain the coolant?

[Matt341]

Hi All,

I'm planning to change the engine coolant in the next few weeks, however, before attempting to remove the square coolant drain bolt I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for the best tool to use for this?

I believe the earlier 2030 had a drain tap which was then replaced with this square head bolt, unfortunately we have the later! I've tried multiple online searches and found similar questions but no definite answer.

Access to get at the side of the engine isn't hugely restrictive as the panels remove in the aft cabin but the location of the bolt itself seems a bit more tricky, a spanner won't touch it due to the proximity of the filter and various pipework.

Any suggestions for the best tool to use for this would be much appreciated!

Thanks
Matt.

 

[VicS]

Hi All,

I'm planning to change the engine coolant in the next few weeks,

I believe the earlier 2030 had a drain tap which was then replaced with this square head bolt, unfortunately we have the later!

Thanks
Matt.

Fortunately you mean !

A square drain plug socket on a suitable extension ??

Id try an ordinary 12 point socket first though.

 

[mickbond]

I replaced mine with the tap, makes draining much easier. I found this link that gives all the details

http://www.myhanse.com/md2030-heat-exchanger-clean-and-coolant-drain-tap_topic3621.html

The drain bolt was very tight needed a 24inch bar.bought the 8 point socket from ebay

 

[Matt341]

Fortunately you mean !

A square drain plug socket on a suitable extension ??

Id try an ordinary 12 point socket first though.

Thanks, no it's definitely unfortunately - i'd rather have the earlier drain tap than have to remove the square bolt. Unless there was good reason that they replaced the drain tap with the bolt??!!

 

[Matt341]

I replaced mine with the tap, makes draining much easier. I found this link that gives all the details

http://www.myhanse.com/md2030-heat-exchanger-clean-and-coolant-drain-tap_topic3621.html

The drain bolt was very tight needed a 24inch bar.bought the 8 point socket from ebay

Thanks for the link, interesting read.

Will get a 17mm 8 point socket ordered.

Matt.

 

[EdWingfield]

'The drain bolt was very tight needed a 24inch bar.'

I think they employ a gorilla at the factory! I used a 3/4" sq drive short extension on the plug and an adjustable spanner on the male end to undo it.

 

[VicS]

When you refit the drain plug use some ptfe tape on the thread. It should make it easier to remove next time.

 

[cmedsailor]

It's easy to remove (if you have some access) using one of these shown in the picture (sorry I don't know what is called in English). Very important to use those that don't have only 6 sides but as shown in the picture.
And a hint. To avoid a mess, first open the exchange heater cap at the top, empty lot's of the coolant using an oil extractor pump (in my MD2030 I was able to empty around 2.5lt from there) and the rest from the bolt down there. Not sure about your boat but in my boat it's impossible to place something to catch the coolant below the bolt. It has to go to the bildge.

 

[Plevier]

If it's the same as mine was on an MD2020D, the female end of a socket set extension shaft (1/2" drive I think, or was it 3/8"?) fitted the square on the plug as perfectly as anything can, bearing in mind it was a crude cast iron plumbing plug so the square actually tapered. Ordinary spanners and sockets just slipped off or rounded it, the deep square socket in the extension shaft gave much more grip.

Edit - just looked at the Hanse link above, my plug was definitely smaller than that, apologies if my suggestion is not relevant to your engine!

 

[Matt341]

Thanks All,

Oddly the bolt looks unmarked with no rounding or marks to the paint, even the paint between the thread and engine looks intact with no sign of it ever being removed. I know that the coolant was changed 2 years ago so wonder if there is an alternative way that the coolant was drained? Could the majority be sucked out from the heat exchanger and the remains be drained by disconnecting the calorifier feed and draining from here as it is lower than the engine, or am I asking for an air lock by doing it this way? The pipe run to and from the calorifier is quite a distance (approx 4 meters either way).

Matt

 

[cmedsailor]

Thanks All,

Oddly the bolt looks unmarked with no rounding or marks to the paint, even the paint between the thread and engine looks intact with no sign of it ever being removed. I know that the coolant was changed 2 years ago so wonder if there is an alternative way that the coolant was drained? Could the majority be sucked out from the heat exchanger and the remains be drained by disconnecting the calorifier feed and draining from here as it is lower than the engine, or am I asking for an air lock by doing it this way? The pipe run to and from the calorifier is quite a distance (approx 4 meters either way).

Matt

Probably only part of the coolant (only around 1 lt) was drained from the bolt at the side of the exchange heater! I think it can be drained by disconnecting the calorifier feed but I have never tried it. I was also relactunt the first time but since I had found a way to remove the square bolt it was then easy. OK the first time was quite messy with all the coolant down there and nothing to catch it but thereafter, using the hint I mentioned, was quite easy.

 

[Ilduceglider]

Thanks all. I have followed the instructions from the Hanse forum and would like to add the following.

The lower drain plug is a nightmare, I found a 1M square section of steel in our local hardware, Bunnings, it is exactly 17mm between the inside flats. You can cut a suitable length to give access, tap it on with a lump hammer, then I used 18 ins Stilsons for leverage. It was seriously tight. After it was removed back to the plumbing section to purchase a 90 degree brass ball valve with suitable adapters. Now to drain coolant, I fit a piece of garden hose and turn the tap, could not be easier. Be patient more will slowly drain, about 5L drained from MD2040. Cheers from Downunder.

 

[MM5AHO]

On this topic, does anyone know where to get the right sized boots (for ends of the heat exchanger).
There are two sizes and I once found a pair, but the smaller size so no good. Any leads?

 

[cmedsailor]

On this topic, does anyone know where to get the right sized boots (for ends of the heat exchanger).
There are two sizes and I once found a pair, but the smaller size so no good. Any leads?

Are you talking about the "covers" part number 861920 shown here http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7740690-26-4161.aspx?

 

[Len Ingalls]

I think you will find that the "bolt" is a standard 1/2" or 3/4" NPT(aper) pipe plug & a 1/2" or 3/4" 8 point socket fits properly. You may also use a crowfoot wrench in stead,but socket is best.
The hole is tapped NPT,but you may be able to fit a brass BPT(aper) valve as the thread pitch is same.However,the shape of the threads is slightly different between NPT & BPT,but brass is malleable enough to conform. Always use teflon tape or brushable pipe dope on tapered threads as Mr Cox suggests.

Cheers/ Len

 

[MM5AHO]

Are you talking about the "covers" part number 861920 shown here http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7740690-26-4161.aspx?

Yes, I'm talking about the "covers", but those one's with that part number are a smaller diameter, and do not fit my MD2030 heat exchanger, which is not modified, and original as supplied.
On those ones pictured, the inner diameter of mine matches the outer diameter of those.

 

[Stork_III]

Yes, I'm talking about the "covers", but those one's with that part number are a smaller diameter, and do not fit my MD2030 heat exchanger, which is not modified, and original as supplied.
On those ones pictured, the inner diameter of mine matches the outer diameter of those.

Perhaps these ones for B series. http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7746410-26-2431.aspx

 

[johnphilip]

If it's the same as mine was on an MD2020D, the female end of a socket set extension shaft (1/2" drive I think, or was it 3/8"?) fitted the square on the plug as perfectly as anything can, bearing in mind it was a crude cast iron plumbing plug so the square actually tapered. Ordinary spanners and sockets just slipped off or rounded it, the deep square socket in the extension shaft gave much more grip.

Edit - just looked at the Hanse link above, my plug was definitely smaller than that, apologies if my suggestion is not relevant to your engine!

My MD 2020 certainly has the 3/8" square end on the drain plug, buying a 3/8" extension bar to use reversed as the socket was my "Best wheeze of the season".