Volvo MD11c starting problem

MD11C - Should have decompressors on both cylinders if I remeber. This will make it easy to turn by hand if you fancy checking it.
Should be a black knob on a lever, on each cylinder near the rocker covers. Push the levers over and that should enable the engine to spin much more freely.
I
 
Thanks one on and all for useful replies. I have learnt a lot. From close inspection at the weekend, I can see the starter shooting out to engage the flywheel when the engine key is turned. However the flywheel does not turn. Most posters are suggesting a bad connection leading to a serious loss of power when the starter tries to kick in and this does seem to be the case.

Those familiar with the MDIIC will know that the heat exchanger is vertically over the starter and there are signs that this leaked in the past and a new gasket has been fitted on the end of the heat exchanger. This has led to some visible corrosion on the body of the starter. Possibly a bad connection on the lead entering the starter but had not time to investigate this fully.

more anon following further investigation.
 
orion50 said:
Thanks one on and all for useful replies. I have learnt a lot. From close inspection at the weekend, I can see the starter shooting out to engage the flywheel when the engine key is turned. However the flywheel does not turn. Most posters are suggesting a bad connection leading to a serious loss of power when the starter tries to kick in and this does seem to be the case.

Those familiar with the MDIIC will know that the heat exchanger is vertically over the starter and there are signs that this leaked in the past and a new gasket has been fitted on the end of the heat exchanger. This has led to some visible corrosion on the body of the starter. Possibly a bad connection on the lead entering the starter but had not time to investigate this fully.

more anon following further investigation.
Click to expand...

I think the majority of MD11Cs were probably seawater cooled so did not have a heat exchanger.

It sounds as though there is a good chance that the starter is defective but i would still not rule out a poor connection else where. There may be enough current getting through for the solenoid to operate but not enough for the motor to turn the engine. You expect to see the warning lights distinctly dim if that is the case.
There is a good chance that the contacts in the solenoid that close to energise the motor are burnt or corroded. The brushes and commutator may be in bad shape if water has leaked on to them.

Have you confirmed that the engine can be turned by hand ? With virtually no effort if the de-compressors are operated.

Getting close to whipping the starter motor off and giving it a "going over" but with care because there are few parts available for it.
 
Just a quick note the starter is extremely expensive from Volvo penta if it is that that is at fault but it is extensively used in cars (mercedes, volkswagen etc.) so an exchange is easily available from a motor factor.
 
>Getting close to whipping the starter motor off and giving it a "going over" but with care because there are few parts available for it.

I don't know about MD11's but Keyparts had MD17 starter motors in stock a while ago. They may be the same but worth a call to them.
 
VicS said:
I think the majority of MD11Cs were probably seawater cooled so did not have a heat exchanger.

Have you confirmed that the engine can be turned by hand ? With virtually no effort if the de-compressors are operated.
Click to expand...

with all the helpful hints returned to boat with recharged booster pack and set to.
checked all connections and all seemed reasonably clean and tight.
checked battery voltage - with the numerous unsuccessful efforts at starting at the weekend, this had now dropped to 12.73 for both.
Flicked both de-compresion levers, and attempted to start - got a slight turn on the engine.

Connected up booster pack to battery 1, set battery switch to "both", returned de-compression levers and after a few shudders and groans ( and one frightening bang as a locker lid fell closed !) she started!

Ran her for 20 minutes or so to charge up the batteries. Hope to return tomorrrow or Friday to repeat the exercise.

Not sure what the conclusion is but delighted to have got her going!
 
delighted to have got her going!
Click to expand...

Check the engine oil.. particulary for signs of water.

Check the anti-siphon loop and valve on the cooling ( seawater) system if you have one
 
VicS said:
Check the engine oil.. particulary for signs of water.

Check the anti-siphon loop and valve on the cooling ( seawater) system if you have one
Click to expand...

Vic,
The engine has the usual high loop on the exhaust side. If I understand you correctly you are suggesting that repeated efforts to start the engine could result in cooling water backflowing into the engine via the exhaust port?
Would the fresh water cooled system not prevent this?
I have an vacuum pump which I can use to extract some oil and pour into a glass container -Is this how one would observe water in the oil? assuming they seperate?
 
Two things
1. If the seawater injection point into the exhaust bend on the end of the exhaust manifold is below or close to the waterline there is a risk that when the engine is not running water will syphon int the exhaust system, fill it and then flood into the cylinders via the exhaust valves.

This is prevented by taking some part or the seawater plumbing up in a loop to an anti-syphon valve ( aka vacuum valve).

Commonly it is the final hose before the exhast injection point ( It would be on a directly cooled MD11C) but it can equally be the hose from the water pump discharge ( IIRC that is how its done on the 2001/2/3 series )

I do not know how it is done on the indirectly cooled MD11C. Looking at the diagram I'd think it would be more convenient to fit in the pump discharge pipework

The valve should be checked periodically to ensure it is operating and not blocked. There are types of anti-syphon vent that do not have a valve but discharge a constant pee stream overboard or into a cockpit drain.

2. lengthy cranking of an an engine reluctant to start can lead to water being pumped into the exhaust system until it fills and floods the engine as above.
This can happen even if the injection point is above the waterline

For this reason if an engine fails to start the sea-cock should be closed until it does.


I was just considering the possibility that your engine had seized due to water ingress .

Extract a little oil via the dipstick/coarse strainer in the same way as you presumably suck out the oil for oil changes.
If any water separates on standing it will indicate quite a lot of water is present. Clean newish oil will go cloudy with quite a small amount of water but it may be difficult to see in black used diesel engine oil!

BTW be aware that the dipstick and the coarse strainer are part of the oil pump suction. It is vital that the sealing washer and O ring are in good condition and that they are always tight.
 
sounds like the original poster's problem was: a) backfilled water or b) bad battery/connections

I have really really close problem.

the solenoid engages the pinion gear and pushes it forward, however the little gear NEVER turns, and no hum or anything else to otherwise indicate that the starter is trying to turn the engine over. So I dont think that its a battery or water problem.

Could it be that the pinion is not going far enough forward to cause the starter motor to kick on? This is a NEW starter:
http://www.amazon.com/VOLVO-PENTA-S...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

Have others with new starters on MD11C had to shim or otherwise 'back off' the starter from where it attaches to allow the pinion gear to fully extend? Or am I way off here and its some other idiotic problem..... arrgg.... Any Help Appreciated!
 
flabar said:
sounds like the original poster's problem was: a) backfilled water or b) bad battery/connections

I have really really close problem.

the solenoid engages the pinion gear and pushes it forward, however the little gear NEVER turns, and no hum or anything else to otherwise indicate that the starter is trying to turn the engine over. So I dont think that its a battery or water problem.

Could it be that the pinion is not going far enough forward to cause the starter motor to kick on? This is a NEW starter:
http://www.amazon.com/VOLVO-PENTA-S...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

Have others with new starters on MD11C had to shim or otherwise 'back off' the starter from where it attaches to allow the pinion gear to fully extend? Or am I way off here and its some other idiotic problem..... arrgg.... Any Help Appreciated!
Click to expand...

This is a 5 year old thread !
 
flabar said:
sounds like the original poster's problem was: a) backfilled water or b) bad battery/connections

I have really really close problem.

the solenoid engages the pinion gear and pushes it forward, however the little gear NEVER turns, and no hum or anything else to otherwise indicate that the starter is trying to turn the engine over. So I dont think that its a battery or water problem.

Could it be that the pinion is not going far enough forward to cause the starter motor to kick on? This is a NEW starter:
http://www.amazon.com/VOLVO-PENTA-S...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

Have others with new starters on MD11C had to shim or otherwise 'back off' the starter from where it attaches to allow the pinion gear to fully extend? Or am I way off here and its some other idiotic problem..... arrgg.... Any Help Appreciated!
Click to expand...

Welcome to the forum flabar.

You need to start a new thread with a descriptive title for your problem. Forumites are unlikely to look at this thread when they see the date on it.

Richard
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

N
Volvo Penta Alarm Module/Alternator Issues
Replies
1
Views
204
superheat6k
superheat6k

Share this page

Top