burgundyben
Well-Known Member
Twice the diameter is a decent thread engagement.
Volvo MD1 Flywheel removal tool info Please
- Thread starter astronomer2002
- Start date
Twice the diameter is a decent thread engagement.
Vegable
Well-Known Member
Just to add, the thread on the crankshaft is very fine and easily damaged. As has been said, leave the flywheel nut on the thread before sliding the flywheel off, then wrap the thread with ptfe tape to protect it.
Mike
Mike
Jokani
Well-Known Member
I removed an MD2B from a Centaur in November 2016.
Like you I wanted to split into as many pieces as possible as I was also nervous about the weight.
But once I realised the time and effort in trying to remove the gearbox and flywheel, I left them on and removed in once piece.
With the boom supported at the lifting point by a halyard, I don not think it acually takes too much of the load.
I did it in 2 lifts, one up to planks layed across the cockpit, and then with the boom height and pulley adjusted, there over the side.
Pics are here http://www.westerly-centaur.co.uk/centaur-md2b-removal
Like you say the mast and boom are made to take greater loads, now I have done it once, I wouldn't hesitate again.
Like you I wanted to split into as many pieces as possible as I was also nervous about the weight.
But once I realised the time and effort in trying to remove the gearbox and flywheel, I left them on and removed in once piece.
With the boom supported at the lifting point by a halyard, I don not think it acually takes too much of the load.
I did it in 2 lifts, one up to planks layed across the cockpit, and then with the boom height and pulley adjusted, there over the side.
Pics are here http://www.westerly-centaur.co.uk/centaur-md2b-removal
Like you say the mast and boom are made to take greater loads, now I have done it once, I wouldn't hesitate again.
lib435
New Member
Hi Astro, I had a similar dilemma when I needed to replace my MD1B from my centaur. As the engine was completely U/S I went for the simple process of cutting through the flywheel spokes with a powered hacksaw. Support the weight on the boom when making the last cut and "voila". I used a fresh blade for each of the spokes and the whole process was done in less than a morning.
Good luck on whatever method you go for.
Lib435
Good luck on whatever method you go for.
Lib435
DownWest
Well-Known Member
Making a puller for Mini flywheels, I used 12mm plate and for the centre bolt machined down a BSF nut so it was mostly in the plate. No need to tap a thread in the plate. Welded a bar on the plate to stop it turning and made a big spanner for the bolt. Worked every time. But, then found that I had people calling about changing the clutches in their Minis, as I could do it in the car.
I also made one for the Lister gensets I often had to fix. Your flywheel sounds very like those.
DW
Edit: Forget heating the flywheel with a little torch. One needs to heat the outer part of the taper with real heat, otherwise the crank taper heats up at the same rate and you loose the diferential. So, as above, an oxy/fuel torch (aka a gas axe) is the way to go.
I also made one for the Lister gensets I often had to fix. Your flywheel sounds very like those.
DW
Edit: Forget heating the flywheel with a little torch. One needs to heat the outer part of the taper with real heat, otherwise the crank taper heats up at the same rate and you loose the diferential. So, as above, an oxy/fuel torch (aka a gas axe) is the way to go.
Last edited:
astronomer2002
New Member
Just an update.....
I made a puller based on 1/2 inch plate and 1/2 inch BSF central bolt.
The separation appears to be about 58mm as my initial 60mm separation was far too great. Drilled holes out to 12mm and then 10mm bolts fitted into flywheel holes. Oh - and I had to tap every flywheel hole down to the bottom due to rust etc.
I tightened it all as as much as I dared - to the point where I was lifting the engine off it's blocks using a T bar and lots of foot pounds.
Nothing.
Sprayed lots of penetrating oil and left overnight.
Still in place.
I then undid everything and tightened up the 10mm bolts ensuring they were as even as possible this time. Tightening the central bolt as hard as I could again it suddenly started to get easier. I thought I had stripped the thread. But I hadn't. No sudden pop, it just started to move. Had to undo everything again as I immediately locked the flywheel against the retaining nut.
Eureeka - the flywheel is loose! But I can't actually get it off without lifting the engine off the mounts and move it backward a few inches.
Now I remember the other reason I needed to get the flywheel off. It makes the engine too big to get out of the engine bay opening without ripping out the wiring and damaging every other fitting on it's way up to the open air.
Trying to lever the engine up even a couple of inches onto wooden blocks is not a one man job and that's when I did my back......
Oh well, at least some progress.
Ian B
I made a puller based on 1/2 inch plate and 1/2 inch BSF central bolt.
The separation appears to be about 58mm as my initial 60mm separation was far too great. Drilled holes out to 12mm and then 10mm bolts fitted into flywheel holes. Oh - and I had to tap every flywheel hole down to the bottom due to rust etc.
I tightened it all as as much as I dared - to the point where I was lifting the engine off it's blocks using a T bar and lots of foot pounds.
Nothing.
Sprayed lots of penetrating oil and left overnight.
Still in place.
I then undid everything and tightened up the 10mm bolts ensuring they were as even as possible this time. Tightening the central bolt as hard as I could again it suddenly started to get easier. I thought I had stripped the thread. But I hadn't. No sudden pop, it just started to move. Had to undo everything again as I immediately locked the flywheel against the retaining nut.
Eureeka - the flywheel is loose! But I can't actually get it off without lifting the engine off the mounts and move it backward a few inches.
Now I remember the other reason I needed to get the flywheel off. It makes the engine too big to get out of the engine bay opening without ripping out the wiring and damaging every other fitting on it's way up to the open air.
Trying to lever the engine up even a couple of inches onto wooden blocks is not a one man job and that's when I did my back......
Oh well, at least some progress.
Ian B
