Bosun Higgs
N/A
Where I have another larger oil leak. Anyone done a DIY replacement on this seal? Any advice?
Volvo md 2030 rear crank oil seal
- Thread starter Bosun Higgs
- Start date
john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
From the workshop manual for the engine:
Replacement of rear crankshaft seal:
The seal consists of a rubber ring and becomes accessible after the adapter plate at the back of the flywheel housing, the flexible coupling, flywheel* and flywheel housing have been removed.
*Note: Mark up the position of the flywheel in relation to the crankshaft (simplified fitting).
1. Clean the position for the sealing ring in the cylinder block and the mating surface on the flywheel housing.
2. Apply an even layer of sealing compound (VP no840 879) round the flywheel housing's mating surface holes. Apply grease on the sealing lip and fit the seal.
I have got a pdf of the engine manual and can e-mail you a copy if you pm me your e-mail address.
Replacement of rear crankshaft seal:
The seal consists of a rubber ring and becomes accessible after the adapter plate at the back of the flywheel housing, the flexible coupling, flywheel* and flywheel housing have been removed.
*Note: Mark up the position of the flywheel in relation to the crankshaft (simplified fitting).
1. Clean the position for the sealing ring in the cylinder block and the mating surface on the flywheel housing.
2. Apply an even layer of sealing compound (VP no840 879) round the flywheel housing's mating surface holes. Apply grease on the sealing lip and fit the seal.
I have got a pdf of the engine manual and can e-mail you a copy if you pm me your e-mail address.
Bosun Higgs
N/A
Thanks. I have a copy of the manual but was hoping someone could expand on the " becomes accessible after the adapter plate at the back of the flywheel housing, the flexible coupling, flywheel* and flywheel housing have been removed" bit
john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
Not sure what else there is to say.
Remove the gearbox, and rear cover over the flywheel. You will have to support the engine as the rear mounts are held on by some of the same bolts from memory. (I have jammed some wood between the engine bearer and the flywheel cover part of the block in the past) You then have the flywheel in sight. Remove the flexible coupling (several bolts you can get at with a socket set) and then you undo some more bolts to take the flywheel off. Its VERY HEAVY!!! and the bolts are done up fairly tightly. Mark which way it goes on the main crank as it will go back any one of several ways and it might affect the balance of the engine if you put it back differently. (Felt tip marker or scratch marks will suffice) You then have the end of the crankshaft and the seal housing before you. From memory there are some small bolts holding the seal assembly in place and these are easy to undo. Follow the instructions. There are no hidden traps in the whole process that any mechanic or reasonable DIYer would find.
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Bosun Higgs
N/A
Does the flywheel require a puller or is it on a straight shaft?
john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
Its a straight shaft, no puller required.
Bosun Higgs
N/A
Thank you John Morris. 
I'm down to the home run by now - everything in bits and just wondering how to get the crank seal out. Problem is, it isnt the normal lip seal that I understand. It must be something like 15mm thick and totally flush with the face of the block. So I'm not sure whether its in a housing and whether it is bonded to the block in some way.
Any idea? Do I just do the usual and drive in some self tappers as things to pull on?
I'm down to the home run by now - everything in bits and just wondering how to get the crank seal out. Problem is, it isnt the normal lip seal that I understand. It must be something like 15mm thick and totally flush with the face of the block. So I'm not sure whether its in a housing and whether it is bonded to the block in some way.
Any idea? Do I just do the usual and drive in some self tappers as things to pull on?
