Volvo DP-E - Removing the Outdrive?

[2068]

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Hi,

If I want to take the outdrive off, what's the best tool to remove the large pins connecting the drive to the shield?
I know that the Volvo Penta special tool 885148-7 is available, and in stock for only £177.84, but would something like a slide hammer work?

ta!
 

tico

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Slide Hammer OR turn drives to about full steer angle and drive the pins inwards using a piece of 10mm rod and a lump hammer.
There is clearance for them to go inwards. Remove drive and then remonve pins re-install from the outside.
Dont forget to remove the locking caphead screws first!
 

[2068]

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Slide Hammer OR turn drives to about full steer angle and drive the pins inwards using a piece of 10mm rod and a lump hammer.
There is clearance for them to go inwards. Remove drive and then remonve pins re-install from the outside.
Dont forget to remove the locking caphead screws first!

Ta, yes, the caphead lock screws came out fine. It's the large pins I'm not sure about.
 

oGaryo

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turn drives to about full steer angle and drive the pins inwards using a piece of 10mm rod and a lump hammer.
There is clearance for them to go inwards. Remove drive and then remonve pins re-install from the outside.
Dont forget to remove the locking caphead screws first!

That's what I did David using a long socket extension and a socket that was small enough to fit in the recess on the face of the pins (so you don't damage the outer surface that has to slide through the hole in the shield). It'll pop out the inside of the shield but not far enough to allow you to take out the drive as the bellows keep the pin pushed in to the shield. To remove them fully, press the pin by hand against the bellow using the socket on the extension again (formally named Le Rigid Extracteur Tool :) ), whilst simultaneously putting downward pressure on the pin with another socket extension. it'll drop to the floor by doing so.

You'll have fun getting them back in, a pig to realign. You'll also have fun aligning the splines on the drive to the corresponding splines on the engine. There's a knack to both
 

oGaryo

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thanks Gary, will give this a go later.

no probs. just a slight correction to the above though. I think you can skip the bit about pushing the pin in a bit further by hand as in hindsight I think the bellows keep them pushed in to the H frame on the drive, not all the way in to the shield itself. Still stands though that it's better to push them out before removing te drive as they rub against the bellows as the drive is dropped. Better in my mind to get them out of there before attempting to lift a heavy drive.

Good luck, have fun and try not to lose too much skin off your knuckles ;)
 

tico

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Quick note... having learnt from experience (and yes, my knuckles look like a London underground map!)
It is a real bugga trying to get the splines re-aligned and line up the pins.
It's all much easier if you split the drive (A la Spannerman), that way the lower drive is much lighter to line up the pins and it's much easier to realign the splines on the upper drive.
Splitting the drive is a POP.
 

oGaryo

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Quick note... having learnt from experience (and yes, my knuckles look like a London underground map!)
It is a real bugga trying to get the splines re-aligned and line up the pins.
It's all much easier if you split the drive (A la Spannerman), that way the lower drive is much lighter to line up the pins and it's much easier to realign the splines on the upper drive.
Splitting the drive is a POP.

Have you tried the following, makes aligning the splines so much easier.

  1. raise the leg on a block so as to mimic it being in full up position if the rams were connected
  2. put the small outer prop on the drive
  3. put both hands inside the UJ bellows and wiggle the UJ's laterally and vertically whilst someone rotates the prop very slowly
  4. if a helper isn't at hand, have one hand in the bellows to align the UJ's and turn the prop with the other hand

The splines will pop in to place in no time with the above approach negating the need to split the drive
 

Peanuts

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Hi FP

I made up a slide hammer to remove those pivot pins, shaft goes through the pin and screws into thick stepped washer (about 6mm thick). Has to be that size due to restricted space from the bellows. It is stepped to locate it in the end of the pin. Makes the job so simple, no having to turn the leg etc etc. just remove the pins usually in about 3-4 slides of the hammer.

For Gary
I use a trolley jack to position the leg height wise, you can also use the wheels on the jack to move the leg inwards once you have the splines lined up. I just line the leg up at the required height and with both hands holding the u/j's inside the bellows line up the splines then push the drive shaft on - it works for me anyway!
 

Davy_S

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Have the newer drives not got puller holes in the pins? The last time I took one off it took me 5 mins to get the pins out from the outside. One bolt, one washer, two nuts, one socket that the pin slides into.
 

Peanuts

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Have the newer drives not got puller holes in the pins? The last time I took one off it took me 5 mins to get the pins out from the outside. One bolt, one washer, two nuts, one socket that the pin slides into.

Yes, you are right, however FP is talking about a good old 290 leg.
 

Davy_S

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Yes, you are right, however FP is talking about a good old 290 leg
I am curious as to why someone would risk cracking the casting by hitting it when a simple extractor tool can be made up out of bits lying about in a toolbox, the pins will pull out of the 290 leg the same way, no need to buy a special tool.
 

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I am curious as to why someone would risk cracking the casting by hitting it when a simple extractor tool can be made up out of bits lying about in a toolbox, the pins will pull out of the 290 leg the same way, no need to buy a special tool.

Which bits?
It's a pin with a plain hole through it's length.
 

STEVEDUNSTABLE

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Hi FP....... i did a video diary of this whole job if you,ve NOT done it before....BUT it is aimed squarely at the "1st timer"...link available if you want it ..
 

[2068]

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Well, it's off. It wasn't exactly warm out there today. I had to do it in 40 mintute stints, with coffee/thaw-out breaks.
Thanks to all for the help/advice offered.

The secret and very expensive tool that you need is as follows:

040213509.jpg



You can clearly see the bit that's poorly, before it goes off to "outdrive hospital":

IMG_3152.JPG
 
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