Volvo D1-20 leaking coolant into elbow. How to weld?

I

icordoba

New Member
Joined
1 Jun 2010
Messages
10
Visit site
Hi,
I have a coolant leak in my Volvo Penta D1-20B (well... a big hole... not just a leak). You can see it in the video attached (that is where the Elbow attaches to the heat exchanger block. You know, the manifold is part of the heat exchanger in this engine. You see only coolant drops as most of it is already out...)
I need seal that hole... as all my coolant goes out through the exhaust elbow. Any advice on this? I'd like to know if I can do this repair my self (using QuikSteel... JB Weld... Holts Gun Gum... or similar) or that whould be too risky and I'd better call a expert in this type of repair that would use a "professional" welding approach.

Thanks for any advice and greetings from Valencia,
Ignacio

 
Welcome to the forum Ignacio. :)

It's difficult to be sure without seeing the hole location and it's size but I reckon it could probably be fixed with JB Weld. The problem would be getting the whole area clean and dry enough and sanding back to good metal to ensure that the JB bonds really well. I suspect that to do that you are going to have to remove the part rather than attempting it "in situ".

Once it is removed, if it is suitable for conventional welding, I'd be inclined to take it to a specialist and get an opinion and costing before going ahead with the JB Weld.

Richard
 
That seems to be on the Heat Exchanger housing so big job to remove the HE, take out the stack and have the aft face cleaned up and welded, or more likely a plate welded as suspect when you clean off all that mess you my well find more corrosion.
 
Tranona said:
That seems to be on the Heat Exchanger housing so big job to remove the HE, take out the stack and have the aft face cleaned up and welded, or more likely a plate welded as suspect when you clean off all that mess you my well find more corrosion.
Click to expand...

Hi,

Did you fix the leak?

I have exactly the same problem with my D1-20's heat exchanger. Dealer said I should buy a new one but it's EUR 1300 and it doesn't exists in Turkey.
 
Hi,
I finally found a place here in valencia where they welded it. Be sure to look for someone that knows what it’s doing. It needs special welding under neutral atmosphere (No oxígeno). The fix was very cheap and un mounting and Mounting it was not as complicated as I thought (it takes time though. Be patient). Definitely not need to but the original part unless the damage is much bigger that the one I show in my video above. Good luck!! (By the way. This damage is caused by the exhaust elbow (I’m not sure if they call that in English). I do recommend this change it by a new one. There are cheap alternatives to the original volvo)
 
icordoba said:
Hi,
I finally found a place here in valencia where they welded it. Be sure to look for someone that knows what it’s doing. It needs special welding under neutral atmosphere (No oxígeno). The fix was very cheap and un mounting and Mounting it was not as complicated as I thought (it takes time though. Be patient). Definitely not need to but the original part unless the damage is much bigger that the one I show in my video above. Good luck!! (By the way. This damage is caused by the exhaust elbow (I’m not sure if they call that in English). I do recommend this change it by a new one. There are cheap alternatives to the original volvo)
Click to expand...

Do you think the JB Weld helps?

https://www.jbweld.com/collections/epoxy-adhesives/products/marineweld-twin-tube
 
D1-20B (digital) , 2007. I have had many problems with this engine, all related to heating. The worse is one involving bubbles in the heat exchanger making engine go very hot randomly. It is a known problem that can be solved raising the position of the expansion tank. I spent years looking for the problem, even exchanging expensive parts until someone from Internet helped me.
 
My D1-30F is from 2017............on my third control box already................wondering how long before another problem occurs. I have heard of some owners removing the heat exchanger and improving the separation seal between the aluminium and cast iron as a preventive measure.
 
I didn't have problems with that other than the hole (which I thin was created by salt coming from the exhaust elbow. That should be cvhanegd every 5 o 6 years as tends to narrow and eventually having some salt going back in the exchangger, just where I had the hole)

I also have my electronic box broken. My engine won't start using the panel button. I need to use a direct short circuit with the starting coil... other than that, the engine works ok... :-D

Slowtack said:
My D1-30F is from 2017............on my third control box already................wondering how long before another problem occurs. I have heard of some owners removing the heat exchanger and improving the separation seal between the aluminium and cast iron as a preventive measure.
Click to expand...
 
I have the same problem. Not sure if it can be welded as I suspect that the material is cast iron. I tried to use metal stitching but there is to much corrosion.
 
sdennisf said:
I have the same problem. Not sure if it can be welded as I suspect that the material is cast iron. I tried to use metal stitching but there is to much corrosion.
Click to expand...
Its aluminium, there is a blog somewhere of a German guy fixing the same problem on an MD22, he cut back to good metal and welded it. He was a genius! The control boxes, MDI ones, I helped solve a problem on an Ovni and VP sent technicians with an osciliscope, the problems being caused by lack of “fly back diodes”
 
Heckler said:
Its aluminium, there is a blog somewhere of a German guy fixing the same problem on an MD22, he cut back to good metal and welded it. He was a genius! The control boxes, MDI ones, I helped solve a problem on an Ovni and VP sent technicians with an osciliscope, the problems being caused by lack of “fly back diodes”
Click to expand...
Was able to remove the exhaust manifold. Pretty easy except that you have to drop the alternator. I was able to find a local shop in Bacliff TX that is a skilled welder with lots of experience welding aluminum. Going to redesign the manifold to add extra thickness where the corrosion took place. Will post ictures when it is done.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top