volvo 2030B calorifier hose sizes - add a ball valve if so which metal?

[gregcope]

Hi,

One of my Volvo 2030B calorifier hoses's is perished and weeping where it joins the engine.

Hence I need to replace. Most of the hose is fine, just the part near the hose tail. Replacing all of it is a right pain.

I have thought of adding a ball valve, so that I can isolate the circuit if required. This would give me enough slack to remove the perished part.

So questions;

1. Is this idea insane?
2. So I need to know the hose ID. I think they might be 16mm. Anyone confirm?
3. Can I use any brass/dzr ball valve? This is the fresh water side so no sea water so assume that's fine.

ta.

 

[Daverw]

I would just use a standard stainless 3/4” ball valve with threaded hose tails to suit the 16mm hose ID, get from any plumbers merchant

 

[Plum]

Hi,

One of my Volvo 2030B calorifier hoses's is perished and weeping where it joins the engine.

Hence I need to replace. Most of the hose is fine, just the part near the hose tail. Replacing all of it is a right pain.

I have thought of adding a ball valve, so that I can isolate the circuit if required. This would give me enough slack to remove the perished part.

So questions;

1. Is this idea insane?
2. So I need to know the hose ID. I think they might be 16mm. Anyone confirm?
3. Can I use any brass/dzr ball valve? This is the fresh water side so no sea water so assume that's fine.

ta.

Fitting a valve will stop the flow to the calorifier but it will not isolate the circuit in the advent to a failure in the calorifier or hoses for that you will need two valves. It would be better to remove the hose tails from the engine and screw valves in their place with the hose tails coming out of the valves? That way you can completely isolate the circuit.

If I had a hose that had started to perish I would not want to risk a later failure at sea so would definitely fit all new hose, no matter how painful before going to sea.

Whatever valve you fit, ensure it is rated for the engine block temperature. Even though it is fresh water, I would fit DZR valves. The ones from ASAP have stainess handles. Many cheep brass ones have aluminium or zinc handles.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[gregcope]

So I think the hose is 16mm ID as this 16mm ASAP hose

https://www.asap-supplies.com/hot-water-hose-16mm-per-metre

replaces Volvo Penta part 952969 - And that is the hose fitted to the water pump as on this exploded view here;

https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7746410-26-2435.aspx

 

[gregcope]

Fitting a valve will stop the flow to the calorifier but it will not isolate the circuit in the advent to a failure in the calorifier or hoses for that you will need two valves. It would be better to remove the hose tails from the engine and screw valves in their place with the hose tails coming out of the valves? That way you can completely isolate the circuit.

If I had a hose that had started to perish I would not want to risk a later failure at sea so would definitely fit all new hose, no matter how painful before going to sea.

Whatever valve you fit, ensure it is rated for the engine block temperature. Even though it is fresh water, I would fit DZR valves. The ones from ASAP have stainess handles. Many cheep brass ones have aluminium or zinc handles.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

Sorry yes meant two valves, one on the return also.

Not sure i have the vertical height spare to fit them direct to the engine.

 

[pvb]

Replace the hoses, as they sound like they're nearing the end of their useful life. There's no need for any valves.