Volvo 2030 fuel filter change - bleeding

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gregcope

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Hi all

Any secrets or tips?

Or is it just a case of replace both the Cav pre filter and on engine filter, losening the bleed screw and pumping the feed pump, possibly forever?

I would imagine it will take a while to fill both filters.
 
If the pump engine is in the right orientation then the fuel gets pumped through reasonably quickly, so my experience is that if it doesn't come through then nudge the engine round with a spanner and try again.
 
This series of engines can be difficult to bleed using the engine flicker pump.
Get yourself one of those Black Plastic bubble Fuel squeese pumps and a few feet of fuel hose. Disconnect the Rubber Fuel line where it goes onto the Injectors and push it onto the input of the squeese pump. Put the new fuel line onto the output of the pump and into some suitable container for diesel. Normally it takes about a minute of pumping on a 2040 to suck up diesel and bleed the system.
Be really careful with the seals on the CAV filters. Any misalignment and you run the risk of leaks and of sucking air and the engine may start to loose revs if you try to rev high. I normally unscrew my CAV from the bulkhead so I can see exactly what I am doing .
Retain the Squeese Pump on boad for changing filters.
Easy enough but require s care and attention,
Kinsale 373
 
I always changed the CAV first. Then ran the engine on teh remaining fuel on the secondary drawing the fuel through to the CAV. As teh CAV filled, the engine would stop. Then change the secondary (less mess at that time) and then only have to prime the secondary. Simples.
 
I fill the filters with diesel before fitting, therefore 3/4 strokes on the priming pump removes remaining air from the system and away you go.
 
I have a bulb primer permanently fitted between the primary filter and the lift pump. Turn off fuel (if you’ve got a shut off valve), change filters, crack bleed bolt on secondary (engine mounted) filter, open fuel shut off valve and use bulb to refill filters with diesel. Work of moments. Bulb has been fitted to system for 6 or 7 years now and has gone a little hard, so replacing it this winter.
 
The 2030 lift pump will only work if the engine is in the correct position There should be a yellow marker on the belt wheel that lines up with a yellow marker or groove somewhere on the block I think, being away from my boat at present. My markers have worn away after twenty years unfortunately. In the correct position, pumping is quite easy and 20-30 pumps will suffice.
I didn't intend bold, can't be bother to change it.
 
gregcope said:
Hi all

Any secrets or tips?

Or is it just a case of replace both the Cav pre filter and on engine filter, losening the bleed screw and pumping the feed pump, possibly forever?

I would imagine it will take a while to fill both filters.
Click to expand...
I use the manual fuel pump until my hand aches and then turn the engine over with the starter a few times. It usually solves the problem.
 
johnalison said:
The 2030 lift pump will only work if the engine is in the correct position There should be a yellow marker on the belt wheel that lines up with a yellow marker or groove somewhere on the block I think, being away from my boat at present. My markers have worn away after twenty years unfortunately. In the correct position, pumping is quite easy and 20-30 pumps will suffice.
I didn't intend bold, can't be bother to change it.
Click to expand...
Be helpful to know a bit more about these marks?
 
duncan99210 said:
I have a bulb primer permanently fitted between the primary filter and the lift pump. Turn off fuel (if you’ve got a shut off valve), change filters, crack bleed bolt on secondary (engine mounted) filter, open fuel shut off valve and use bulb to refill filters with diesel. Work of moments. Bulb has been fitted to system for 6 or 7 years now and has gone a little hard, so replacing it this winter.
Click to expand...

This is as good an answer as you'll get (y)
 
Kinsale373 said:
This series of engines can be difficult to bleed using the engine flicker pump.
Get yourself one of those Black Plastic bubble Fuel squeese pumps and a few feet of fuel hose. Disconnect the Rubber Fuel line where it goes onto the Injectors and push it onto the input of the squeese pump. Put the new fuel line onto the output of the pump and into some suitable container for diesel. Normally it takes about a minute of pumping on a 2040 to suck up diesel and bleed the system.
Click to expand...

Sorry but none of this makes any sense. There are no rubber fuel lines going to the injectors, for a start.
 
So... did not quite go to plan... what i thought would be an hours or so, turned into four.

  1. You need to shut the fuel off (at tank) otherwise the CAV will dump loads of fuel
  2. Who ever invented the CAV needs to fit a few... its hard, contorted into the foot end of berth trying to keep the bits aligned whilst doing up the central bolt blind
  3. When I undid the engine filter bleed bolt or the feul filter (once i got it loose) loads of fuel came out ~ around half a ltr or more. This is over and above what was in the filter
  4. The cut off milk bottle worked well to capture the CAV
  5. Need better ziplocks; three of mine leaked when removing the engine filter
  6. Need lots of paper towel
Think I know how to do the CAV. Thanks
for the tips.

How do you stop all the fuel coming out when removing the engine filter? It was coming from the threaded part as a good small jet. Is that normal and you

Pumped the primer about 60 times. CAV is filled. Feul comes out of the engine bleed screw. Think its bled. Not had time to run it.

thanks again for ideas. Will look for a pump! I assume the fuel line is 8mm?
 
my understanding (and experience) is that they are a pain to bleed - has always taken me far far longer than I would hope and hence we have bought- but will fit before next change- the rubber bulb referred to - if anyone has already fitted it to a starlight 35 volvo 2030 please share photo with me -thanks

greg - know exactly what you mean about the contortions to get to the first filter element - a job that if you could access easily would be so much easier !
 
@PaulR I would a cut down milk bottle (as recommended here) very effective to trap the CAV. Putting it back together and getting it back on was a challenge.

However that was not as big as tidying up all the fuel from the engine filter...
 
PaulR said:
my understanding (and experience) is that they are a pain to bleed - has always taken me far far longer than I would hope and hence we have bought- but will fit before next change- the rubber bulb referred to - if anyone has already fitted it to a starlight 35 volvo 2030 please share photo with me -thanks

greg - know exactly what you mean about the contortions to get to the first filter element - a job that if you could access easily would be so much easier !
Click to expand...

@PaulR Do you know the ID of the fuel lines? Is it 8mm or 6mm?

In terms of locations;
  • I would have thought either before the CAV but next to it
  • Somewhere near the stern gland
  • Just before the prime pump (although it will rub on the engine mounts)
 
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