Volvo 2003 starting after layup

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kalanka

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Volvo 2003 28 hp fresh water cooled. Engine was running fine last season. Just before winterising I changed oil and fuel filters as normal but had difficulty re-starting - which cleared when I re-vented the system including cracking the nuts on the injectors.

Have now recommissioned the engine but starting is very difficult. I have vented the system yet again and have managed to start the engine a couple of times but it is a very slow process indeed.

Engine sounds as though it is not firing on all cylinders when the starter is operating - this is not typical of normal starting for the engine.

When started the engine sounds fine but there is quite a lot of smoke at start up - presumably the diesel from repeated use of the priming lever.

I ran the engine for about 45 minutes but next time I started from cold I had exactly the same starting problem with lumpy and half hearted starting. Ran the engine for an hour that time, and still the same problem starting from cold.

Batteries have a good charge and are in good shape.

Any ideas?

Thanks
 
I have much the same with my Bukh despite a recon this winter and received much helpful advice on this thread:
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309221

The most plausible explanation of these seemed to be fuel starvation due to air leak, which I dismissed as not likely in my case because the tank is above the engine level, but I have not solved it yet so I am questioning my reasoning there now.

I resolved to started it with throttle, but that makes no noticeable difference.

I should calrify that mine was also slow to start before my recon, whereas yours is a post layup issue.
 
Mmmm, strange that, everything was OK last year, but since changing oil and filters you are experiencing trouble. What I'm not sure about is your reference to 'priming lever', to the best of my knowledge the 2003 does not have any priming device. My 2003C (1993) certainly doesn't. If you are referring to the lever at the bottom of the lift pump, that only is used for manually pumping fuel for bleeding. One other point on bleeding I have never cracked off the injector nuts to bleed the system, its never been needed. Once the fuel has been lifted to the secondary fuel filter and clear fuel with no bubbles is coming from the bleed nipple at the top of the filter then the job is done. Continuing to manually pump fuel will only return the fuel back to the fuel tank. You will see a fuel line running from the last injector pump back to the tank.

As for starting, sorry your original question! If the engine will run and start once warm, then there is nothing wrong with the fuel system. It would run very rough, if at all, if there was air in the system, or if you were drawing air somewhere.

The recognised starting procedure for 2000 series engines is, press the disengage gear button and push the throttle lever as far forward as it will go. Now pull the stop lever fully out, then release it to its normal postion, return the throttle lever to about half way. Push the start button and the engine will start. What the above procedure does is to push the fuel metering rack past maximum, so you get an extra dose of fuel for start up. The 2000 series engine has no other cold start facility, it has no glow plugs or priming. Whatever you do, dont start to use Easy Start, it will kill the engine in time.
 
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Two points.
1) Assuming the boat is in the water and its seawater cooled, if you need repeated use of the starter, make sure the cooling water is switched off until it starts, otherwise water can be sucked into the cylinders.
2) I think there is a decompresser lever at the front of the rocker cover. Try lifting it vertical to get the engine turning over faster.
 
galadriel said:
As for starting, sorry your original question! If the engine will run and start once warm, then there is nothing wrong with the fuel system. It would run very rough, if at all, if there was air in the system, or if you were drawing air somewhere.
Click to expand...

Theoretically, I'd agree with you - except that I have a 2003T with a keel tank, and had starting problems a few years ago which I eventually traced to an air leak in a pipe joint. Once started, the engine ran flawlessly. But, a few days later, it would take ages to start as the fuel had drained slowly back into the tank.
 
galadriel said:
The recognised starting procedure for 2000 series engines is, press the disengage gear button and push the throttle lever as far forward as it will go. Now pull the stop lever fully out, then release it to its normal postion, return the throttle lever to about half way. Push the start button and the engine will start. What the above procedure does is to push the fuel metering rack past maximum, so you get an extra dose of fuel for start up. The 2000 series engine has no other cold start facility, it has no glow plugs or priming. Whatever you do, dont start to use Easy Start, it will kill the engine in time.
Click to expand...

That brought back memories of how I used to start my 2002. I also remember that I had been advised to give the lift pump about 20 strokes before a cold start, which is what I always did, though I'm not sure what the reason was if there were no leaks.
 
The 2000 series do have a cold start device. Pulling the stop lever in and out sets the fuel pump to a cold start position and should be operated prior to cranking the engine.

If it worked ok prior to the filter change I think the filter seals may be a suspect to check. Do you have a per filter? Is it a cav filter ? I have had to reseat these in the past. Even a small leak here will allow a bit of air that cause starting problems that will clear when running but will reappear every time the engine stops.
 
Sorry, my reference to the priming lever is not clear.

I mean the stop control. Previous owner led me to believe that in cold conditions some multiple operations of this lever prior to starting was desirable and this seems to have worked. This may or may not be good advice. Should I infer an underlying compression problem from this suggestion?


Still not solved the root starting problem......
 
Is the compression good? I had to get the valve seats re-cut on my 2002 to cure bad compression problems. Possibly a valve has been sitting open all winter with a bit of condensation or sea water on a valve seat causing corrosion. Mine just gradually got worse over a few seasons until it was a real struggle to start from cold. The trick before the seats were re-cut was to take off the air filter and put a little engine oil in the inlet manifold. This helped the valves to seal so that I could get it started. Very impressive cloud of smoke when it does start.
 
kalanka said:
Sorry, my reference to the priming lever is not clear.

I mean the stop control. Previous owner led me to believe that in cold conditions some multiple operations of this lever prior to starting was desirable and this seems to have worked. This may or may not be good advice. Should I infer an underlying compression problem from this suggestion?


Still not solved the root starting problem......
Click to expand...

I'd suggest that your operation of the stop control is incorrect, have you read the procedure in my earlier post? Multiple pulls will do nothing, the throttle lever must be fully forward. Give it a try.
 
If something worked and now doesn't then look at what has been changed or what could change on its own.

Air leaks as suggested resulting from bleeding the system is first.

Second might be the lift pump diaphram which might have given up the ghost - this is non-replacable and a new lift pump is required. Mine packed up after a top-end overhaul which must have frightened it :)

White smoke after a cold start is normal for mine.

If all this fails then I'd get the injectors checked.

Multiple use of the stop lever is not required - one pull out and push it back then start. If you stop the starter button/key then pull it out and back again.
 
My first port of call would be the filter. CAV filters have two O rings that are different enough to cause problems if switched, but not different enough to be obvious if, like most of us, you deal with them once a year.

Alongside, it's a nuisance, at sea, they can make changing a filter in a hurry a nghtmare, especially when things are getting bumpy, which is, of course, when filters are likely to block. After one such experience, I sacked my CAV filter and replaced it with a pair of spin-on filters from my friendly local car breaker, set up in parallel, with taps so I can switch from one to the other in seconds.
 
This 45 minutes of running you did, was it along side a pontoon or charging about the ocean?

I think the rings have gummed up and stuck over the winter so you don't have full compression plus the water temp is cold at the moment which just adds to a slower turning engine when cold. Can I suggest a good hard run of at leat a hour at sea under nearly full throttle. We notice our 2003 is nmuch easier to start even when cold if it has previously had a good blast early on in the season.

Pete
 
galadriel said:
I'd suggest that your operation of the stop control is incorrect, have you read the procedure in my earlier post? Multiple pulls will do nothing, the throttle lever must be fully forward. Give it a try.
Click to expand...
It doesn't sound like the cold start procedure to me. That is designed to unset itself as soon as the engine fires so the fact that it fires at all means the cold start procedure will become disengaged. It sound very much like air in the system to me. I'd me looking to re-bleed and/or find out where its getting in
 
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