Volvo 2003 saildrive 120S seawater valve

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Slowtack

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The engine inlet valve on the saildrive leg recently gets too stiff to close after an engine run. I normally motor at 2200 - 2400 revs and I dont think the engine temperature is any higher than previously, the engine has not overheated. Once the engine cools off the valve can be closed. I replaced the saildrive gaiter for 2009 season and cleaned out the water conduits. Seawater through-flow is normal. Anybody else had this occur?
 
Just a thought.
Would it be possible to replace the normal valve with a ball valve. A lot cheaper than €105 for the Volvo one !
Would require a little alteration to the pipework.
It might depend upon matching the thread on the Saildrive.
 
VicS said:
Just a thought.
Would it be possible to replace the normal valve with a ball valve. A lot cheaper than €105 for the Volvo one !
Would require a little alteration to the pipework.
It might depend upon matching the thread on the Saildrive.
Click to expand...


This is what I plan to do over winter. The tap top on mine is a silly round plastic thing that is useless. I have not been able to turn it off for several years.:eek:
 
No plug on mine either. That would defeat the object of having a cooling water inlet.

I gently rod mine out through the bottom (plugless) hole and through the side holes. I find it best to wait until all the growth inside has died and dried up.
 
galadriel said:
This is what I plan to do over winter. The tap top on mine is a silly round plastic thing that is useless. I have not been able to turn it off for several years.:eek:
Click to expand...

I've often wondered if I could replace the wheel with a lever. It only needs to turn through 90° (as far as I can tell). I suspect if yours has seized it may get damaged if you force it. I turn mine off every time I leave the boat so that probably keeps it relatively free.
 
Although I've heard tales of the waterways in the leg getting choked with mussels, it obviously depends on where the boat spends its time. I changed the seal on my 120S last year, by which time it was 11 years old and had lived in Brixham, Lymington, and now a mud berth off the Swale. Apart from one or two very small barnacles, the waterways were completely clean.
 
Mine was siezed solid by the end of last year but on removing it (when the boat was ashore) I found a large mussel stuck there!

Have also found small mussels growing in the heat exchanger passages, caused an overheat problem.

But the plastic valve seems to expand, making it stiff at the best of times. I knew a 120S owner who had replaced the plastic valve with a ball valve (see earlier suggestion) but was then worried about a possible electroysis issue between the aluminium drive leg and the new (stainless steel I think) ball valve.
 
I knew a 120S owner who had replaced the plastic valve with a ball valve (see earlier suggestion) but was then worried about a possible electroysis issue between the aluminium drive leg and the new (stainless steel I think) ball valve.
Click to expand...
Yes that would be a worry!

Two possible solutions.
Reinforced plastic ball valve Marelon ??

Leave existing valve and leave turned on. Fit a stainless steel ball valve in the adjacent pipewok if it can be adequately supported.
 
A kit is available from Volspec, VP dealer, replaces the wheel operation with lever ball valve, comprises DZR ball valve, a nipple, and a 1/2" BSpt x 3/4" Hose tail. about £30.
 
Dipper said:
No plug on mine either. That would defeat the object of having a cooling water inlet.

I gently rod mine out through the bottom (plugless) hole and through the side holes. I find it best to wait until all the growth inside has died and dried up.
Click to expand...

Both legs have plugs fitted, perhaps this was done when the raw water intake was converted to a through hull fittings.
 
I sealed mine up permanantly and fitted a proper seacock with strainer, that I can get at easily to shut off when I leave the boat, or to unblock when necessary.
 
Many thanks for the various replies. Doesn't seem to be solvable, only by replacement. To ensure adequate waterflow I already have a backup thru hull inlet (properly valved) in case the mussel blockage gets too serious. However I like to maintain flow thru the saildrive to keep the little fellers moving along to the basket filter.

I fully cleaned the waterways when the leg was dismantled during gasket replacement. Because of the plate at gasket level it is not possible to rod all he way up from the bottom of the leg. The hole in the plate "offsets" the upper and lower waterways if you get my drift. In any event there was only relatively little mussel debris in the upper section after a number of years since the previous gasket overhaul. The main blockages occur in way of the actual inlet holes.

My main concern is that the saildrive valve will either (a) remain permanently open with risk of a pipework leak or (b) suffer damage in forcing it closed
 
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