Volvo 2003 questions. Anode location and electrical continuity between saildrive

That is the plug i have removed, access is not great

That looks like the cyl head ?? I think that's where a sensor for a temp gauge fits

The anode fits in the block . #21 in the parts diagram on Marineparts :

10632.jpg
 
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No its not the cylinder head. If you look just to the right of the plug hole in my picture that is the oil filter mount. This plug hole is just below the alternator
 
No its not the cylinder head. If you look just to the right of the plug hole in my picture that is the oil filter mount. This plug hole is just below the alternator
Put it back. Not anode holder
Anode holder is 3/8 BSP with a square head

1/4 plug possibly oil gallery
 
No its not the cylinder head. If you look just to the right of the plug hole in my picture that is the oil filter mount. This plug hole is just below the alternator

Fair enough. You are in the right area. Maybe that is where it fits but you need a very slim anode.
 
Dear All,
My raw water cooled 2003 engines both have their anodes tucked away under the alternator.
This composite photo is my personal aide-memoire for anode replacement. Ignore the impeller and the the tape which the previous owner had mistakenly put around the thread on the brass anode holder. Hope this helps. [Sorry cannot help with electrical continuity]

Spare Engine Anode _8830.jpg

Cheers
Bob
 
https://goo.gl/images/b2cvGV
Dont know if anyone has the time but hopefully that link works and will show the alternator side of a volvo 2003. The plug i have removed is the one below the alternator and above the engine mount in this picture. Mine is a hex plug and i cant see any other plugs anywhere
 
Great Bob, im definitely in the right place.
51499C42-028B-41CD-817D-13EE2FF738B8.jpg
This is my plug. Only conclusion i can come to is early engines didnt have an engine anode and a smaller blanking plug. Strange
 
My raw 2003 has both anodes, side and front, guy from Keypart didn’t believe me, almost called me a liar, both now fitted.
 
9E4E7175-5A34-4328-8F62-837C3A6E9E79.jpg
I can see a plug in the location as suggested but it is obscured by the oil pressure sender. Would be ridiculous to be changing anodes here. I have found a plug and skiny anode online to replace the one i have already removed.
Im also going to install a galvanic isolator before relaunch.
If i ever find a reason to remove the pressure sender i will check the plug to see if the anode was installed there and update this post with my findings.
Thanks for all your help and advice.
 
View attachment 69556
I can see a plug in the location as suggested but it is obscured by the oil pressure sender. Would be ridiculous to be changing anodes here. I have found a plug and skiny anode online to replace the one i have already removed.
Im also going to install a galvanic isolator before relaunch.
If i ever find a reason to remove the pressure sender i will check the plug to see if the anode was installed there and update this post with my findings.
Thanks for all your help and advice.

Before you splash out on a GI check that your shorepower earth is actually bonded to the DC negative etc.

Prior to the 2012 edition of ISO 13297 it was acceptable for this not to be so, provided the whole mains power system was protected by an RCD. If the shorepower is not bonded to the DC negative a GI will serve no useful purpose.

Boats fitted out since 2012 should have the shorepower earth bonded to the DC negative, except when the DC system is fully isolated, but it is a contentious matter and even now many in DIY installations it will not be.
 
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My shorepower earth is not bonded to my dc system but i run a charger pretty much non stop when plugged into shore power so there is in my mind potential for the 12 v and 240v system to be linked. I know in theory it shouldnt but my dad lost half his propeller after fitting a new battery charger to his boat. His earth and dc negative were not bonded. My boat had a galvanic isolator sat in one of the cupboards so i may as well fot it.
 
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