Volvo 2002

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firstascent2002

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Hi there,

I'm looking to servicing my volvo at the end of this year. I watched the man do it last year. I have an oil changer to do that part. I was going to buy this off e bay for the bits 150256033634.

My questions are

1) Does my volvo 2002 have an anode on the body of the engine that needs replacing?

2) How do I find out the impeller part number to order from the above e bay listing?

2) Other than changing the filters, oil and worn belts, is there anything else that needs changing?

3) To get the antifreeze into the engine I was going to connect the intake directly from the impeller pump to a pipe (having disconnected the sail drive inlet) and put the end of the tube in a bucket of anti freeze...will that work?

Any other gems on winterisation gratefully recived!

J
 
First a link to the workshop manual http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/volvo_penta_2002_worksh.pdf

and the owners manual http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/volvo_penta_2002_owner.pdf

then a link to the parts lists http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/VP_Schematics/DIESEL/2001_2002_2003_2003T/

Now your questions
<ul type="square">
[*] 1. I don't know but not if it is indirectly cooled although then there may be one in the heatexchanger (see the pictures in the owners manual.

[*] 2. The above will give you the Volvo Penta part numbers but i know nothing about eBay

[*] 3. See the manuals!

[*] 4. Presumably you are in fact talking about a raw water cooled engine. The trouble is that if you just do that with a cold engine the thermostat is closed it all whizzes through the bypass and out again. To stand any chance of getting the antifreeze into the engine fully you need to drain it (Preferabbly then flush with fresh water and drain again) then do as you suggest . However for best results collect the water/antifreeze being discharged and transfer it back to the bucket and keep circulating until the engine reaches normal temperature. [/list]
Sorry the w'shop manual wont be much help to you.
 
You don't say whether it's fresh or raw water cooled. If the latter there should be a zinc pencil anode attached to a brass plug with a square head mounted on the front of the engine, near the oil filter.

Pipe into bucket to draw up first fresh water - I would recommend a good few bucketfulls to get the engine up to working temperature (avoids the need to remove the thermostat) and give it a good flush out, then 1/2 gal of 50:50 antifreeze / water into the almost empty bucket then stop the engine as soon as the bucket's empty. (I've arranged a tee piece and isolating valves to (a) avoid removing the hose from the inlet seacock - it's a right so&so, and (b) give the possibility of an emergency bilge pump using the hose that normally goes in the bucket.)

It is recommended to clean the lift pump filter gauze, the air filter (I flush it with the diesel drained from the old filters), and the anti-syphon valve (tap water).

I inspect the impeller closely, but only change it if needed. A Speedseal simplifies access. I do keep a small stock of impellers aboard, however...

You don't mention your gearbox. If it's a saildrive, the book says to change the oil annually, but I tend to pour it into a clean container to check for emulsification and, if it's OK, pour it back into the gearbox.
 
I have a sail drive drive and volvo 2002. I run the engine on the hard by using the system used for outboards that clamp by pressure on the drive leg. This is attached to a hose and as you run the engine the water is drawn up into the engine. You are then able to run the engine to proper running temperaturefor the thermostat to kick in. If you dont do this your efforts to get antifreeze into the casing will be in vain. This is a simple way that saves the hassle of uncoupling pipes and getting water all over the place inside the boat.
 
This method obviously works for you, but I have seen advice elsewhere that it's not considered a good idea to connect pressurised water directly to the inlet - hence interposing a bucket. I think there is a fear of water finding its way into the cylinders via the exhaust.

OTOH it is, as you say, a standard technique for flushing outboards, which do not appear to be at this risk. I wonder what the difference is.

Anyone with more knowlege care to comment?
 
[ QUOTE ]
Anyone with more knowlege care to comment

[/ QUOTE ] There should be no problem with a supply from a hose provided that the water is not turned on before the engine is started or left running after the engine has stopped. It is while it is connected and turned on with the engine not running that there is a risk of flooding the exhaust system and of water then entering the engine. While the engine is running the exhaust gases safely eject the water, at least with all reasonable water flow rates.

The same hazard exists to a lesser degree if you draw from an elevated bucket, say in the cockpit. Important then to remove the suction from the bucket when stopping the engine.

Outboards are a totally different kettle of fish. Some have the provision to connect a hose directly to them. Provided they are kept (more or less) upright there is no problem. (Maybe that should read provided you don't turn them upside down, even). The water simply falls out of bottom. They do not have a long lengths of exhaust pipe with watertraps and swan necks.
 
I would add:
1 checking and changing thermostat cover of raw water circuit,
2 dismounting discharge elbow, cleaning it from carbon "dirt", reinstalling with a new gasket
3 cleaning the circuit with a light acid solution,
4 installing SpeedSeal water pump cover
5 changing water and oil rings on the water pump axis (if drips are seen).
Cheers!
 
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