Volvo 2002 Sticking Fuel Rack

Ediothea

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Hi, Read lots about Volvo Penta 2002 Cold Start Procedure
mine is intermitentent. checked inside Governer assembly all is as it should be except the rod attached to the fuel rack sticks and does not always fully extend.
Symptoms
Difficult to start .
Once started will not always accelerate from idle until stop lever wiggled
Will not start once warm until start lever Wiggled then starts instantly

Have checked manual , system looks really simple, rack looks to be sticking and pulling stop lever is nudging the rack to unstick it.

Any ideas what could be causing Rack to stick?
 
I am not familiar with this particular motor, but in general fuel rack sticks for one reason: one or more injector pump plungers are becoming to seize - often as a result of fuel contamination (water). Check the water separator. If O.K., try disconnecting the plungers from the fuel rack (not sure how it can be done on your engine) to identify the culprit.
 
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Sounds like the rack is sticking on one of the pumps. You can remove the pumps one at a time to see which one as the previous poster suggested and see if the offender can be cleaned and freed. . It might be worth flushing out the oil system refilling it with fresh oil and ensuring the engine gets up to full temperature for a while. Maybe the mechanism has been gummed up by too much cold running.

Here is a link to a manual if you dont have one. See page 18.


https://avdhoeff.home.xs4all.nl/zei...enta-Type_2001-2002-2003T_Workshop-Manual.pdf
 
I always find Volvo 2002 posts rather frightening. I've got one and it works at present but evry time I read one of these posts I find it's got another bit I've never heard of to worry about.
 
I always find Volvo 2002 posts rather frightening. I've got one and it works at present but evry time I read one of these posts I find it's got another bit I've never heard of to worry about.
They are really simple engines all they need is clean fuel and air to work. Both the owners and workshop manuals are a quick goggle search away.
 
Sounds like the rack is sticking on one of the pumps. You can remove the pumps one at a time to see which one as the previous poster suggested and see if the offender can be cleaned and freed. . It might be worth flushing out the oil system refilling it with fresh oil and ensuring the engine gets up to full temperature for a while. Maybe the mechanism has been gummed up by too much cold running.

Here is a link to a manual if you dont have one. See page 18.


https://avdhoeff.home.xs4all.nl/zei...enta-Type_2001-2002-2003T_Workshop-Manual.pdf
Worth noting that the fuel pump gaskets are actually shims that adjust the timing
 
They are really simple engines all they need is clean fuel and air to work. Both the owners and workshop manuals are a quick goggle search away.

Yes, agree with that. The workshop manual is pretty good and, combined with the readily available parts diagrams, it's fairly easy to work out which bits go where!

The only note of caution for the OP is to avoid doing anything to the governor mechanism; it's a rat's nest of springs and weights and is best left to experts.
 
Thanks for the replies, yes there was evidence of water in the fuel, drained the tank and replaced with fresh fuel plus both filters replaced along with some diesel bug treatment. See pic below.
tried changing oil today, need to source a narrow tube to go down dipstick, had hoped to syphon out of filler plug but no go.
Can the pumps be freed up with a good dose of WD40 ?
Will keep you all updated keen to find the cause.
 

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Thanks for the replies, yes there was evidence of water in the fuel, drained the tank and replaced with fresh fuel plus both filters replaced along with some diesel bug treatment. See pic below.
tried changing oil today, need to source a narrow tube to go down dipstick, had hoped to syphon out of filler plug but no go.
Can the pumps be freed up with a good dose of WD40 ?
Will keep you all updated keen to find the cause.
Changing the oil can't hurt, but probably won't help. The seizing is taking place between parts lubricated by the fuel. I'd suggest to run a few litres of fuel with a small amount (10% maybe) of engine oil in it. With a bit of luck, the part will "run in" and all returns to normal. Risk - 0. If it doesn't help, you are looking in the barrel of pump reconditioning or replacing. Not cheap either way.
 
Changing the oil can't hurt, but probably won't help. The seizing is taking place between parts lubricated by the fuel. I'd suggest to run a few litres of fuel with a small amount (10% maybe) of engine oil in it. With a bit of luck, the part will "run in" and all returns to normal. Risk - 0. If it doesn't help, you are looking in the barrel of pump reconditioning or replacing. Not cheap either way.

How do you know that? The rack mechanism is lubricated by engine oil.
 
How do you know that? The rack mechanism is lubricated by engine oil.
I used to be in charge of a diesel locomotives testing facility for a major manufacturer. That is how I know that :-).
It is not the rack mechanism that is sticking. It is the plunger(s). They move up and down to pump the fuel and are being rotated by the rack to control the amount of fuel delivered. When they start to seize, it usually starts with increased resistance against turning. If not treated, it will eventually progress to the stage when it seizes entirely and the pump stops functioning entirely.
 
I used to be in charge of a diesel locomotives testing facility for a major manufacturer. That is how I know that :).
It is not the rack mechanism that is sticking. It is the plunger(s). They move up and down to pump the fuel and are being rotated by the rack to control the amount of fuel delivered. When they start to seize, it usually starts with increased resistance against turning. If not treated, it will eventually progress to the stage when it seizes entirely and the pump stops functioning entirely.

Let's hope you're right then, or you'll join the ranks of Aussie contributors whose advice is less than helpful.
 
Let's hope you're right then, or you'll join the ranks of Aussie contributors whose advice is less than helpful.
Well... I am right. :-). I can't guarantee success though. I would rate your chances as "moderate". BTW: during the cure attempt, change the revs as frequently as you can.
 
Thanks for the replies, yes there was evidence of water in the fuel, drained the tank and replaced with fresh fuel plus both filters replaced along with some diesel bug treatment. See pic below.
tried changing oil today, need to source a narrow tube to go down dipstick, had hoped to syphon out of filler plug but no go.
Can the pumps be freed up with a good dose of WD40 ?
Will keep you all updated keen to find the cause.


I wouldn t use WD 40 as totally unsuitable. the reason for the stickyness should be apparent once the pumps are removed. Beware. Each pump must be replaced in The SAME location using its own shims or the timing of the pumps may be messed up. Also read the manual regarding the way the various shims should be assembled .

Water in the fuel may have caused this if the water and bugs have resulted in corrosion/scoring of the barrels and plungers . It could also be due to the rack and sleeve gumming up . If this has happened then washing the rack and sleeve area with diesel should help remove these deposits and then well lubricate with engine oil. it the rack is still sticking and not smooth in operation then it is possible there has been corrosion inside the pump barrel similar to that seen in the filter and the injectors might also have be affected so making it advisable to take all components to a fuel specialist.
 
I always find Volvo 2002 posts rather frightening.
Look at it another way, forums are full of people who have problems. You never get lots of posts where people say how brilliant and trouble free their engines are so it's not any indication of an engines reliability. More an indication that there are still a lot of these engines about.
 
Cause of the sticking rack found !
fuel pipes removed on 1st injector, bolts holding pump were not particularly tight.
On removal pin is stiff and binding in the low throttle position and force to excercise is over and above spring in governor throttle linkage.
the really bad news a lug of the pump remained on the block! The bolt/ thread came out of the block with nut.
Theres an o-ring round the neck that the other pump does not have!
The shims on both pumps look hard. Any help on what the soft ones look like
Is this the reason for the Note in the manual “Never install a hard shin against block or pump” or the lug may fracture ??
Only had the boat 2 weeks could this O-ring be a bodge
I am assuming this is the root cause of my starting and idling problems?
see pics below
 

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It sounds like a bodge! Later versions of the engine had an O-ring to seal the fuel pump. So either the other fuel pump should be an O-ring design, or the one with the O-ring shouldn't be there.

Screenshot 2020-06-22 at 20.58.03.png
 
It sounds like a bodge! Later versions of the engine had an O-ring to seal the fuel pump. So either the other fuel pump should be an O-ring design, or the one with the O-ring shouldn't be there.

View attachment 93142
Perhaps one pump has been replaced with O ring type pump worth checking if cyl head part number changes as it would if a groove is fitted to suit O ring
 
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