Volvo 2002 Morse lever/cable

[Fulmarjon]

I've got a Volvo 2002. Pushed button into neutral and pushed lever forward to start engine. Engine turned over but needed many attempts before it started. At first I thought it was diesel/water problem. However penny dropped and I then discovered that the lever does not now offer much resistance and pushing forward does not cause the engine to accelerate at all. Looked at both ends of cable which seem to be connected where they should be! *Snapped in between somewhere maybe (do they snap, engine about 20 yrs old?) Is it a straightforward job to pull out old cable and replace? Any problematic adjustment/calibration needed? Any advice welcome before I make the dreaded phone call to the marine engineer! Is it an easy job for a person of limited competence ie me!

Thanks for any help*

 

[bobgoode]

Easy job..did it once in the Caledonian Canal...10 minutes to do the jod. 1 hour to find the path of the cable and expose it 2 days to wait for the part.

 

[mjcoon]

... Snapped in between somewhere maybe (do they snap, engine about 20 yrs old?)

Yes, even happened to us on flotilla (but on "free sailing", of course!). I think it was due to excessive wear due to an inadequate radius of curvature of the cable as it went from the lever down the binnacle pillar.

Mike.

 

[Tranona]

You replace the whole cable - inner and outer. Remove the old one and buy a new one (Morse 33c type) of the same length.

 

[Oldhairy]

You replace the whole cable - inner and outer. Remove the old one and buy a new one (Morse 33c type) of the same length.

+1 And a generally a fair bit cheaper from a lawn mower shop.

 

[david_bagshaw]

while you are at it but the premium grade that has a wire centre rather than a rod centre, goes round tighter bends as well, with less friction.

Also photograph the inside of the throttle head before stripping as it is possible to get the outer casing clamp in the wrong position.

Easy job to do. lastly the length of the cable is normally stamped on the outside of the cable casing.

 

[Sans Bateau]

Fulmarjon, welcome to the forum! These things do break, usually at the most inopt times. Ours broke 15 minutes out of the marina on the start of a channel crossing last year. These cables are not to difficult to get, but do get the real thing, if its lasted by design 20 years thats good value for money, dont be tempted to try and save 5 quid on the wrong thing and do get a solid cable, they have to push as well as pull and a braided cable is not so good pushing.

The way to do this Is to remove the inner cable, both bits. This will tell you the length you need. When you get the new cable disconnect the old outer from its clamps at the engine and the engine control. Then using PVC tape tightly tape the correct end of the new cable complete to the old cable. Use the tape to create a wedge rather than a step where the new cable meets old, this will help the passage of the new cable on route. Then as you pull the old cable out, it will pull the new cable through.

Alternatively, if you have nothing to do for hours, just pull the old cable out complete and then try to route the new cable in!

 

[mjcoon]

The way to do this Is to remove the inner cable, both bits. This will tell you the length you need. When you get the new cable disconnect the old outer from its clamps at the engine and the engine control. Then using PVC tape tightly tape the correct end of the new cable complete to the old cable. Use the tape to create a wedge rather than a step where the new cable meets old, this will help the passage of the new cable on route. Then as you pull the old cable out, it will pull the new cable through.

Although, if some awkward but thorough person has put a clamp somewhere along the run to ensure that vibration does not cause wear/chafe (baggy-wrinkle not being sensible!), that simple pull-through method is not going to work...

Mike.