volvo 2002 cold starting

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firstascent2002

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Hi there,

My volvo 2002 is really slow cold starting. It takes about 5 to 10 seconds to start. There is no pre heat function. Once the engine is warm it starts instantly and runs well, no black smoke etc. Are there any tricks for cold starting? I'm sure i read somewhere that I was supposed to hold the stop leaver out for a length of time before starting. Any ideas would be great.

J
 
Whilst pulling the stop control fully out give a couple of full throttle pumps on the throttle control. This is the recognised cold start procedure and it works fine on my 2001 (10 hp single cylinder version of your engine)
 
Cold start on Volvo Penta 200x:

1. Push throttle to approx 75% of full power (disengage transmission)
2. Pull stop handle fully out and release back
3. Activate ignition
4. Start Engine
5. Prevent over-revving: keep RPM down below 1500-1800 the first few minutes
6. After a few minutes you can release the throttle get on your way

Arno
 
PVB's answer is correct. if this doesn't solve the problem you may need to look elsewhere. I had the same problem and eventually had my starter motor overhauled by a local specialist (non marine) who informed me that the unit (Bosch) should have been modified. They did a great job reconditioing the unit and carried out the mod. On refitting I found the turnover speed was significantly increased and I haven't had any problems since.
 
I endorse everything said but, what has made my starting even better is not using a leisure battery. I now have a 600 cca battery which wizzes the engine over a lot quicker.
 
5 to 10 seconds is good for one of those!

I had a Volvo 2001 in my old boat - sometimes it took over a minute a cranking from cold before it would start. When going it ran like a sewing machine.

Eventually I got fed up with it and managed to pick up a replacement Volvo 2001 second hand - it had excellent compression at the top end of the specified range and also had a new injector nozzle. It took 5 to 10 seconds to start.

Ed
 
Whilst pulling the stop control fully out give a couple of full throttle pumps on the throttle control. This is the recognised cold start procedure and it works fine on my 2001 (10 hp single cylinder version of your engine)

......................................................................................


It should only be necessary to place the speed lever in the right position and then pull the stop handle to the limit of its travel and push it back in. If pumping of the fuel lever is necessary then it suggests you have sticking governor?fuel pump linkage.


John
 
By way of explanation.

Cranking speed is important in these engines, so bad connections or starter motor problems do need addressing.

However as yours does start and run OK I think only the procedure is at fault.

Contrary to some of the below, the order of doing the following is fairly immaterial, beyond the obvious like ignition on before it will start, and seacock open first etc....

Seacock open.

Batteries on.

Depress start in neutral and set to high setting (75% or more).

Raise stop control fully and return fully (if the engine is cold and someone does this for you, you will hear a click from the engine end. This is the cold start mechanism which critically sets the fuel rack to over fuel the motor until it starts).
Ignition on.

Operate starter, 10 seconds max. If no start, re-do the stop lever just in case before re-trying.

When it fires, reduce throttle to protect the engine.

If it looks as though it will die, if you quickly raise and lower the stop lever you will find this is just like 'jiggling the choke' in the good old days!

There is a pre-heat kit available for these, third party accessory I think, but to be honest, I've never been bothered, they will start in the middle of winter as designed.
 
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