Volvo 2001 Diesel

LONG_KEELER

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Two questions if I may :-


Question 1

Had the head off this winter. First time in 18 years. Head skimmed, valves sorted and injector serviced. The engine is running better than ever. Smother, quieter, less vibration no smoke etc .
But she is difficult to start. There are no glow plugs with this engine and I have the feeling that it
is not getting any extra diesel from the cold start lever. I'm not sure how it works, I assume it adjusts the governor in some way to supply more diesel until firing ? Is there any way that I can check that this is happening and is there a way of adjusting it ? It does stop the engine.


Question 2

The handbook states that both valves are set at .30mm . That is fine. It also states that the decompressed setting is .50mm. I am at a loss to understand this and how I go about it. There is a shaft which sets the exhaust valve slightly open when using the lever. When turned to normal, the shaft turns and a recess in the shaft allows the valve to operate normally.

Have tried googling for answers but nothing clear cut.

Thanks in advance.
 
The cold start process is greatly misunderstood. Basically, you set the throttle to about 2/3, then pull the stop control, then push it back, then crank until the engine starts, once started move the throttle control back to idle.

I'd ignore mention of clearance on the decompression - just adjust the valves in the normal way to 0.30mm.
 
Two questions if I may :-


Question 1

Had the head off this winter. First time in 18 years. Head skimmed, valves sorted and injector serviced. The engine is running better than ever. Smother, quieter, less vibration no smoke etc .
But she is difficult to start. There are no glow plugs with this engine and I have the feeling that it
is not getting any extra diesel from the cold start lever. I'm not sure how it works, I assume it adjusts the governor in some way to supply more diesel until firing ? Is there any way that I can check that this is happening and is there a way of adjusting it ? It does stop the engine.


Question 2

The handbook states that both valves are set at .30mm . That is fine. It also states that the decompressed setting is .50mm. I am at a loss to understand this and how I go about it. There is a shaft which sets the exhaust valve slightly open when using the lever. When turned to normal, the shaft turns and a recess in the shaft allows the valve to operate normally.

Have tried googling for answers but nothing clear cut.

Thanks in advance.

You mention the owners handbook but are you aware that there is a workshop manual on Bluemoment. However I can see no mention of the decompressor setting in there. From the way it is worded in the owners manual , viz decompressor depression, I would assume this is the amount by which the valve is held open. How you would measure or adjust it I have not a clue ... I dont think it is adjustable. So long as the decompressor allows the valve to close properly then I would think that is all you need to worry about . IIRC they eventually dropped the decompressor from the 2010 series.
 
I had a 2002 with decompression and a hand start but when it self-destructed I replaced it with a fresh water cooled version in about 1992. This had no decompressor and no hand start.
 
You mention the owners handbook but are you aware that there is a workshop manual on Bluemoment. However I can see no mention of the decompressor setting in there. From the way it is worded in the owners manual , viz decompressor depression, I would assume this is the amount by which the valve is held open. How you would measure or adjust it I have not a clue ... I dont think it is adjustable. So long as the decompressor allows the valve to close properly then I would think that is all you need to worry about . IIRC they eventually dropped the decompressor from the 2010 series.

Yes. Am indebted to you for supplying the 2000 series workshop manual link a few years back. It has given me the confidence to have a go at a few things on the engine. The owners manual came with the boat, and unlike the workshop manual, quotes the gap for decompression . As suggested, I think I will forget about it.

The workings of the cold start lever is a bit of a puzzle. When next on the boat, will work back from the cable and try and see what might be happening.

Many thanks for all responses.
 
Yes. Am indebted to you for supplying the 2000 series workshop manual link a few years back. It has given me the confidence to have a go at a few things on the engine. The owners manual came with the boat, and unlike the workshop manual, quotes the gap for decompression . As suggested, I think I will forget about it.

The workings of the cold start lever is a bit of a puzzle. When next on the boat, will work back from the cable and try and see what might be happening.

Many thanks for all responses.
Unfortunately doesn't list the 2001 on Bluemoment, just the 2002. I suppose some info can be related from that. Pity I missed the opportunity to download as that is my engine. Mine is very reliable and starts quickly using cold start technique.
Would be interested in the overall cost of this work if possible, just for reference sake of coarse.
 
Unfortunately doesn't list the 2001 on Bluemoment, just the 2002. I suppose some info can be related from that. Pity I missed the opportunity to download as that is my engine. Mine is very reliable and starts quickly using cold start technique.
Would be interested in the overall cost of this work if possible, just for reference sake of coarse.

I think you will find that the manual on blue moment is for 2001, 2002, 2003 & 2003T. Thats whai it says on the front cover anyway. It might of course only apply to the early versions, not in every detail to later ones with a B,C or D suffix.
 
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I think you will find that the manual on blue moment is for 2001, 2002, 2003 & 2003T. Thats whai it says on the front cover anyway. It might of course only apply to the early versions, not in every detail to later ones with a B,C or D suffix.

The engines are all fundamentally similar, so the workshop manual is a useful reference.
 
Two questions if I may :-


Question 1

Had the head off this winter. First time in 18 years. Head skimmed, valves sorted and injector serviced. The engine is running better than ever. Smother, quieter, less vibration no smoke etc .
But she is difficult to start. There are no glow plugs with this engine and I have the feeling that it
is not getting any extra diesel from the cold start lever. I'm not sure how it works, I assume it adjusts the governor in some way to supply more diesel until firing ? Is there any way that I can check that this is happening and is there a way of adjusting it ? It does stop the engine.


Question 2

The handbook states that both valves are set at .30mm . That is fine. It also states that the decompressed setting is .50mm. I am at a loss to understand this and how I go about it. There is a shaft which sets the exhaust valve slightly open when using the lever. When turned to normal, the shaft turns and a recess in the shaft allows the valve to operate normally.

Have tried googling for answers but nothing clear cut.

Thanks in advance.

Just to finish up. Went down to the boat today. Followed the Cold Start cable. The cam traveled it's whole distance and looks ok. Seems to be linked close to governor area . Assume that it provides more fuel in some way at start up.

I had a marine mechanic put the head back on together with alternator starter motor etc. I have checked the valve clearances today and they appear wrong.

The manual states 0.30mm for both hot and cold. The exhaust valve was snug at 0.20mm and the inlet was a very tight 0.25 . This might explain the cold starting problem. Am I right in thinking that this would produce less compression ? . Seems to run very well though after start up.

I will give the mechanic a ring today. Perhaps there is a reason for setting the valves like this.
 
I had a marine mechanic put the head back on together with alternator starter motor etc. I have checked the valve clearances today and they appear wrong.

The manual states 0.30mm for both hot and cold. The exhaust valve was snug at 0.20mm and the inlet was a very tight 0.25 . This might explain the cold starting problem. Am I right in thinking that this would produce less compression ? . Seems to run very well though after start up.

I will give the mechanic a ring today. Perhaps there is a reason for setting the valves like this.
:rolleyes:
 
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