Volvo 2000 series MS2 gearbox repair

Sans Bateau

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Many of you will be familiar with the problem of splines wearing on the Volvo MS2 gearbox input shaft. The easiest to find repair offering via Google is one that cost well over £500 plus VAT. However, a little digging around and you will find this company:

http://www.versatilemarine.co.uk/acatalog/Volvo_Penta_MS2_Spline_Repair.html

I have just received back my input shaft, new drive plate, screws and a full set of instructions and the whole lot cost £350 plus vat, a huge saving. The company was easy to deal with, provided a quick turn around and as far as I can see the engineering quality is first class.

This weekend it all goes back together and the engine back into place.
 
refitting engine with MS2 gearbox mod

Just thought I'd add some notes to my previous post, for the benefit of anyone else contemplating the job.

Fitting the modified parts are very straightforward and if you have got as far as taking them off, putting them back will present no problems.

When it comes to mating the engine back up to the saildrive gearbox though, things are a little more difficult than when refitting with the old splined drive. I do speak with experience here, last year I replaced the saildrive gaiter on my 2003/120S unit and refitting the engine was easy, its was like the engine knew its away onto the gearbox input shaft. The same was true when I did the same job on a 2030/120S last month.

I have found that aiming the engine at the gearbox with the splined drive an wiggling the engine gets the desired result, almost a brute force approach. This does not work with the modified hex drive. To start with the drive hex male and female ends are a much closer tolerance. After many failed attempts at getting the engine onto the gearbox I realised it needed a more gentle, technical approach. I found that there was a burr on the female drive plate fitted to the flywheel, I used a small file to clean these off. I then used a Dremal to make a very small chamfer on the leading edge of the male part. Next as it was impossible to haul the engine into place, line it up and get the two hex's lined up I employed the help of a ratchet strap, I used one with two hooks which were attached to the engine mounts after being passed around the back of the gearbox, so when the strap was tightened it pulled the engine toward the gearbox in a controlled effort. This means that your attention can be concentrated on getting the engine and gearbox exactly in line, and believe me they need to be.

The two parts of the hex drive have to be exactly in line, as I already said, the tolerance is very tight. To assist in this, I cycled the engine until the flats of the hex were horizontal, I then marked the crankshaft pulley so I knew exactly where is was. This though, although still useful, later gave way to removing the flywheel housing and bolting it to the gearbox, and then pulling the engine in onto the housing. This did two things, firstly it gave a very accurate visual check on alignment, secondly, it allowed me to get a 17mm spanner on the hex input shaft to the gearbox, which I could then move until I felt it engage the the female drive plate. Once engaged it was a simple case of wind up the ratchet strap to pull the engine back.

Saturday was a painful, disappointing day, Sunday though, after some careful thought and planning had the engine pop into place with ease. I hope this will help someone else avoid the torment I suffered learning how to do this job.
 
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