Volvo 110s Saildrive question

AndyAndKatie

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Me - Greenhithe, Kent. Boat - Gillingham, Kent
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Ive spent ages searching and trying to find out info on changing changing the Anode ring on my saildrive leg, but there are a few things that are baffling me, and I apologise now if this has been raised before and I havent been able to find it...

First, How does the Prop cone come off??, Ive removed the allen head bolt from the middle and I expected it to unscrew using the large hole running through it for purchase, but as it didnt come of easy, I didnt want to risk stripping threads. Can anyone tell me if this is a standard right-hand thread or a left hand thread??

Also, I can see around the circumference there are lots of tiny slots. After I had released the allen bolt, water started seeping from these slots and I wondered where this water came from. Is it just cooling water running down the leg internally?? I also noticed that there is a plastic looking seal between the cone and the prop, so does this need to be changed??, and indeed, are there any other seals that I need to change or atleast be aware of??

Can anyone offere any other advice on servicing the leg, and indeed my MD7A Volvo Engine?? I've found the service manual on the Volvo-Penta website so I'll be using that to do my basic service.

And I've just read an old post regarding the flushing out of the seawater cooling system.. Sounds like thats gonna be fun..

But any other tips and help would be gratefully recieved as I aint never done this before.

Cheers
 
I suspect it depends on the prop you have fitted.

If you can post a photo people may be more able to help

What you are describing doesn't sound like my 2 blade folding prop.
There is normally the main nut and then a locking bolt which screws into the middle and has a flange which folds against it to stop it unscrewing.

Once all undone - the prop should just come off (might need a little gentle encouragment if it hasn't been off for a while - but mines never needed more than a couple of taps)

Once the props off the anode is just held on by a couple of allen keys

Are the slots you are seeing just the grooves of the spline fitting ? There might be a little retained water here - but no water runs down the leg through the prop

Good luck
 
Yes, just unscrew the central bolt, and then the hub should just unscrew, then the prop should just pull off. I have just done two, and I dont beleive it is a left handed thread (mine was so loose I undid it by hand!)
I think the small slots are just drainage holes.
 
as per moby dick just unscrew the cone
it is left hand to remove
the hole in the boss is for a barring up or off
if in any doubt when it was last replaced replace the locking bolt which has a plastic /nyloc slug
 
[Also, I can see around the circumference there are lots of tiny slots. After I had released the allen bolt, water started seeping from these slots and I wondered where this water came from. Is it just cooling water running down the leg internally?? I also noticed that there is a plastic looking seal between the cone and the prop, so does this need to be changed??]

On mine I had a metal plate between cone and prop. The plate had small fins which were bent into the slots as and where they lined up to act as a means to stop the cone backing off. Any bent back fins require straightening before backing off cone (conventional thread). Your 'plastic looking seal' could be this....if it is not then I would suggest it is just a spacer. It is definitely not a seal and the water seapage is not cooling water coming down the leg. The water was probably 'relased from within the assembly when you removed the bolt (use locktite when reinstating the bolt). The thread within the cone is bonded in, by what I do not know, and there is some give between the two when putting some beef behind trying to get the cone off making it feel a bit spongy. Try and get some WD 40 in there and keep trying. Once off pretty much as others have said. Good luck.
 
The 120S saildrive is the same design. The large locking washer between the cone and the prop has splines in the centre which match those on the shaft and tabs around the outside which have to be bent slightly to engage in the notches on the cone. Even without the end bolt, the cone can't come undone unless these tabs are gently bent straight again.

On the 120S the cone has a conventional thread - anticlockwise to remove. It is likely to be the same with the 110S.

Apologies to theotter. I've basically repeated (and confirmed!) what he has said.
 
Oh thats fantastic guys, thanx very much for all your replies. I did wonder if the thread was indeed anti-clockwise to undo, because of the clockwise rotation of the prop its self, but I just didnt want to strip the thread as this is my first time.

As for the Tab Washer between the cone and prop, if mine had any tabs bent into the slots, they Ain't there No More!.. I'll look into getting a new one this weekend.

Many thanx to everyone for your help...
 
On mine I had a metal plate between cone and prop. The plate had small fins which were bent into the slots as and where they lined up to act as a means to stop the cone backing off.

this is an alternative to the plastic washer and the tangs are a vernier fit so only one will fit properly dont force all the other as thet wont fit
one is plenty to lock if its the right one
 
I have a 120s leg and remove prop annually As per other replys remove allen nut insert screwdriver or similar in hole in cone and twist off . I usually fill cone with waterproof grease.
The plastic washer i replaced last week as old one was split this is available from Keypart as are all other parts for volvo and i always find them very efficent
 
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