vhf cable - deck joint

rajjes

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I’m fitting a vhf aerial on the mast, and passing the cable internally. What is the standard arrangement for ‘splitting’ the cable at the deck to allow the mast to be unstepped without too much hassle? Do waterproof plugs/sockets exist? are they adequate?
 

dulcibella

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"Waterproof" plugs and sockets are very prone to leakage and failure. It is much better to install a deck gland (available at any chandler) so that you can lead the cable through a closely-fitting hole in the gland's silicone-rubber pad to a connection inside the boat.
To unstep the mast, remove the cap of the gland and pull the cable and connector out.
 

Salty John

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I agree with Dulcibella, make the connection inside the boat. Get a deck gland that will take the connector and not just the cable. Index Marine makes a good version.
 

Poignard

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That's what I have had for the last 9 years and it has been 100% successful. I also use deck glands for other mast wiring and for the GPS aerial.
Index Marine make them and you can find them in most chandleries.
 

DaveS

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I have to say that my experience has been exactly the opposite. I have over the years installed 3 VHF deck plugs / sockets and none has leaked. I used the Vtronix (sp?) type which is readily available in chanders and elsewhere. OTOH I inherited a collection of deck glands on my current boat, all of which leak despite my best efforts to cover everything with assorted goos as an additional line of defence, incorporate drip loops in the cable runs, etc.

Incidentally, and thinking more generally than just VHF, yachts must be about the only place where it is considered normal practice to poke wires through glands and do up "chocolate block" connectors each year, just to undo it all 6 months later, losing a few strands of wire in the process. In every other field with equally or more severe conditions to cope with (think military) the practice is to use properly specified waterproof plugs and sockets and terminate each cable once only.
 
G

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I gave up on 2 of my deck plug / socket combos and ripped internals out ... I use the carcase as a waterprotected deck holder now. I passed cabnles in via the plug ... joined to cable coming up through deck into socket ... connected oplug to socket ...

I thought about doing it to internal cabin but then decided that when de-masting etc. - often people forget connections .. so if plug and socket on deck ... open find joint .. easy !
 

cliff

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I would have to agree with you. Only once had a problem with deck plugs (Dri-Plugs) and that was due to the "Marine Electrician" not fitting the correct grommet in the cable entry. Some fixed though. The weakness in them is the cable entry - that must be good and well sealed and a smear of vaseline on the terminals and round the "O" ring seals does not do any harm either.
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Aja

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I'll go with DaveS on this one. Last boat had deck gland (square type) that had all cables from mast routed through it. It was an absolute PITA every April/October to join fiddly bits of wire in a chocolate box. My arms got tired working above my head etc....

I fitted Dri-Plugs to my next boat and have been delighted with them. As an extra I totally sealed the plug side with self-amalgating tape and made the socket side rest on a good bedding of gloop.

Donald
 

comoxlarry

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Anytime you place a connector in a co-ax cable you will generate standing waves in the cable and get some loss of signal. If you can avoid connector in a cable -do so. I like to fill co-ax connector with silicon grease to keep water out then seal them with tape. Over time moisture will penetrate the cable and change the cable impedance causing RF losses.
 

whipper_snapper

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[ QUOTE ]
Incidentally, and thinking more generally than just VHF, yachts must be about the only place where it is considered normal practice to poke wires through glands and do up "chocolate block" connectors each year, just to undo it all 6 months later, losing a few strands of wire in the process. In every other field with equally or more severe conditions to cope with (think military) the practice is to use properly specified waterproof plugs and sockets and terminate each cable once only.

[/ QUOTE ]

No-one, as far as I know, is suggesting to use the dreaded chock-block. The idea is that you use a gland big enough to pass a connector through, that way a proper connector is used but it is safely tucked away below and not exposed on deck. The exception may be the VHF where you should avoid any connection if possible in the coax. I have in the past just run it straight through a gland to the radio. When dropping the mast I just pulled it all through, plug and all. In some boats this will be difficult and there would be no real problem with a properly made join below decks. But I agree with those who say you should do all you can to avoid deck plugs.
 

curious

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Like many others, I have found the proprietary deck fittings unsatisfactory. Our solution 100% successful for the last 25 yrs was to fit plastic through hull fittings in the deck by the foot of the mast properly bedded and of a diameter to allow the terminal to pass through. Then fit plastic hose over the upstanding deck fitting (s/s worm drive clipped) long enough to allow a good loop up and then down towards the deck. Seal end hose around cable with a sealant and bob's yer unc.
 
G

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In our local DIY emporium ... we can get small junction box cases with clip on lids and glands for cables. The box's are designed for outside eaves / gables fitting for ext. light leads etc. Size about 5cms long ... 2 cms wide and 2cm deep. I seriously thought about screwing and bedding down onto deck next to mast .. with connectors inside that ... in fact still am - as the connectors I have used are now old ... working .. as prev. post with internals ripped out ... but looking old.
 
G

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That is a nice looking piece of gear ... but would look right out of place on my tub !

My idea is similar to this - my deck is a bit strange as well - looks like my store wall ! - you can get in half this size as a rectangle ... 5 x 2.5cm .... snap on - snap off top, cable entry can be via base or sides ... plastic is soft enough to stand being bashed or trod on ...

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And 99p in local DIY shop ..
 
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