Very early Sunseeker refurbishment - Photos and a few questions.

I now have the new cap with a locking nut underneath also. The trim bar is not genuine, cost me a jar of coffee and cookies to bribe a friendly machinist to do the parts in stainless.
 
She's coming along very well. Any chance we can see the pics of the cuddy?

Deffo £1600 well spent. How long and how much do you think the re-furb ill have cost?

Looking for ward to the next instalment.

Cheers ,Pete
 
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Antifouled prop - I love an optomist!
 
Stern to Aft, here's what I remember spending. Excludes tools, and where I've bought, say fibreglass / resin, I've put down half the price as I've used maybe 20% of what I bought. Will use the rest on next project, probably a yacht next.

Thrust washer. £24
Leg paint and antifoul £40
New parts for leg £15
Leg oil £10
Anodes and bellows £114
Bathing platform teak oil £10
Gelcoat filler £8
Impellor £14
Engine oil and filter £23
Battery £80
Bilge pump switch £15
Electrical isolator switch £15
Depth transducer £25
Full rewire with marine wire, £100
Flotex carpet £40
Marine ply £40
Foam £50
Fluted vinyl £200
Stainless staples £16
Varnish £16
Stainless bolts and screws £25
Sikaflex £10
Fibreglass, resins, £80
Cutting cleaning disks £10
Danboline £15
Primer £15
Antifoul £35
Cuddy carpet £115
G3, polish, pads £60
Tilt motor repair £6
And probably another £100 of bits I can't remember.

Total around £1300, some of this is routine maintennance though, such as anodes, oil, antifoul etc.

I'll make a new cover in Sunbrella, will add another £200.

It's not just money spent on this boat, it's money spent on my own training. I could have spent the same on 2 weeks of boat courses, learnt a lot less, and not had a shiny boat at the end. It's my first boat, learning how to do this came from these forums, youtube videos, books, and a friends advice.

I did a similar project before, converting a VW T5 van into a camper, thread here:

http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=126064
 
I just found this thread and I've really enjoyed seeing how much you've done to bring your boat back to its best. Great effort.

It brought back some happy memories (and a few frustrations). I refurbished my own Sunseeker Day Cab 23 a few years ago.

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Thanks for the comments, and it's good to see other peoples projects. I'm near the end of the main part of this project. Carpet is all in, and hull polished and anti fouled.

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I carpeted the cabin with carpet from megavanmats. I've used this carpet before when I did the interior of my VW T5 van. Last time, it went really well. This time, I bought a lighter colour (barley) instead of blue. The carpet was undoubtably thinner (I called them, something to do with the dying process), and every fault shows through it. Also, I had to do a lot of butt joins, which show up massively. Overall I'm not pleased with the carpeting, it will have to do though. The spray contact adhesive they supply is very good. Far better than any other spray glue I've used.

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I'll take more photo's of cabin in better lighting conditions.

After much of a fight I got the engine running for the first time this year. I spent ages messing with the fuel lines and fuel pump. Each time you advance the throttle, a bit of fuel squirts from an nozzle overhead the carb, into the carb barrel. Or rather it didn't, on any of the carbs. No amount of priming solved this. Turned out that the resevoirs of fuel in the Solex carbs were full of 'gone off fuel', which had also gummed up the one way valves in each carb.

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A friend gave me advice on how to disassemble the carbs, and clean. I used aerosol carb cleaner which worked great. After re-assembly, she started first turn of the key, still using 6 month old fuel from the tank.

I have now looked at a problem with the raw water pump. Under a previous owners rag and cable tie, is a dripping 'tell-tale' drip hole. I guess it was one way of removing the drip.

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On disassembly, turns out the bushings in the pump have worn, along with the shaft, and the seals now don't seal. I'm pondering options to rectify this, the quickest would be spend £90ish on an overhaul kit, which includes all required parts. I posted on this in the Mototboat forum here:

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3619531#post3619531

I started this project thread in the PBO section, as it's the only boat magazine I read. I'm far more interested in practical work and 'more down to Earth stuff' on boats (although it's all yachts), than reading a motorboat magazine all obout the lastest £90k powerboat I can't afford!

Nearly done. F
 
She's looking good :cool:

As you say, also a learning experiance - even if that learning is simply to make damned sure you buy carefully if you ever get bigger / more expensive!

And I see you are also discovering that most jobs boatwise are not beyond the scope of anyone with half a brain and a willingness to get stuck in (whether or not they have the skills needed at the outset!).....but the number of those jobs not to be underestimated........
 
SunseekerS20 - are you in Val Wyatt? If so then we met up on the slipway late last saturday and early Sunday. If not then there is another S20 around like yours.

Hi Mlines, yes that was me at Val Wyatt! Haven't seen you in a while...

She has a new paint job (see attached pic). Ferenis enjoying your updates - quality job!
 
Almost done now. I spent a while on the engine with a couple of snags. An overhaul kit for the water pump solved one problem. I was left totally stuck trying to start it, and started a long thread on the motorboat forum for advice. Turned out to be 3 fully blocked idle jets. So blocked, I didn't realise there was meant to be a hole in the end of them!

I bought a new toy! It's only a few years old, a 3.5hp four stroke as a back up motor. It's mounted on a removable hardwood mount I made. The engine will fit in the engine bay for storage, I'll need to custom make a mount to hold it securely in the engine bay. The engine and mount won't be permanent fittings, but onboard, just in case. As advised, I'll be roping the outboard engine to the boat before trying to lift it out and into place. I haven't tried to mount it from inside the boat yet, I imagine it will be a real struggle tho.

The bathing platform was gleaming a few months ago, now it looks tired again. More sanding and oil I guess.

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The electrics are now complete, and I've made a hardwood instrument console for the depth sounder and speed indicator. Previously there was a huge plastic box holding them. All 6 instruments now light up when required too. I added a volt meter to the volvo trim panel. The trim panel had a 2" blanking plate, I think it was for a trim indicator for a slightly different drive.

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It took best part of a day to make a cushion for the bench seat. The top and front are fluted vinyl, I made piping along the front only, rest is plain vinyl with velcro access to the foam, underneath. (I have an old industrial sewing machine, with a clutch motor. The clutch was very 'grabby' and made it hard to control the speed. I bought a new cork clutch plate, and skimmed the metal clutch disk in my lathe. The metal face looked like a badly work brake disk. Improved ity loads, and makes for neater stitching).

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And proof it runs!

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At the end of today I had a bump with it. The garage roller shutter door was about and inch and a half lower than the top of the mast head light. The door won. It was a solid light and went with a hell of a bang, hopefully it's not strained the windscreen it's mounted on too much. £18 with delivery from marinemegastore. Damn!!

I'm busy all next week, will hopefully try it in the water for the first time next weekend!!!
 
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Looking Excellent!

If you need any advice or for a second opinion on any little things let me know but I will surely be popping over to have a look at the transformation!

Well Done!
 
Running mains water through the system is likely to blow seals especially on the water pump shaft better using a bucket in the boat with hose.
Have you checked the the water inlet which is the on the nose of he leg I/2" vertical ?
 
Finally - But at the 2nd attempt, she's in the water. This was as far as I got on the first attempt.

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I started the engine with the Z drive fully up, by mistake. I realised about a minute later and put it down, then noticed water dripping off the bottom of the engine bell housing. I thought I'd worn through the bellows and water was getting it, and dripping from a drip hole. Back in the workshop, it turns out the bellows are fine. There's a short but thick rubber pipe from the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe of the transom part of the Z drive. There's a small split in this pipe, and the water was running down from there. Took a while to find, that's for sure!! I'm not sure how I'll change this pipe, it's very thick with only a small gap between the two metal pipes it joins. I do not fancy removing the manifold to do this.

I don't have an ideal towing vehicle, the van has 105bhp, front wheel drive, and is a bit heavy as I've converted it to a camper van. The boat and trailer weighs 1700kgs, I've pulled it once up Falmouth watersports slipway, which was dry.

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So, this evening, back into the water. My friend who helped me with the fibreglass repairs came down in his tender and we got the boat in quite easily. While he found my mooring I took her for a gentle drive out into Carrick Roads. The carbs need setting up, the idle is slightly fast and when accelerating there's a dead spot around 2500rpm that the engines reluctant to go through. When it's through that, the speed picks up to an indicated 32mph (28kts) (instrument uses water pressure flow to give the speed) at 4000rpm. I imagine when the carbs are setup she'll give a little more. It felt very fast to me! I'm quite happy to potter round slowly, so doubt she'll be doing it often.

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Then she went on a mooring. It's the first time this year, and it seems that my pickup buoy is tangled with an adjacent one. It's on a friends mooring, which happens to be the next one along, and I'll get help with this from the harbour commissioners tomorrow.

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The cover is old, falling apart, made from a heavy plastic and looks absolutely dreadful. The next bit of work will be to make a new cover from Sunbrella. And the 2 front seats need recovering.

I'll try and get some nice photo's of her soon.

So there's always more to do. But I'm very pleased with things today!
 
I put her on the mooring in Falmouth, and was then away for 6 weeks (which gave the seagulls time to set up home), so didn't get to use her at all. Having returned a couple of days ago I've now had 2 proper days out this weekend.

The engine was slow to start after 6 weeks, but now goes first turn of the key. On Saturday we headed up Carrick Roads, to Malpas, enjoying some quiet cruising and also trying her full throttle down Carrick Roads. As we headed out to sea, and across towards the Helford, we were delighted by some nearby dolphins that came very close.

Today was a quiet trip, in choppy conditions, across to St Mawes and up the Roseland Peninsular. Towards the top of the river we anchored for an hour, it's nice to stop the engine and have silence in a remote setting on the water.

My girlfriend really likes going out on the boat, which bodes well for getting another one! She especially likes going full throttle, where as I'd like to get a small yacht.

There's still a list of things to sort out on the boat, mainly a new cover, and get the depth sounder working, but for now it's time to enjoy it before the season ends!

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Hi, just starting on a very simalar job myself. Did you replace the bump strip on your boat? I have a sunseeker of the same era and am finding it hard to track down. Regards
 
I didn't. Mine does need replacing, as some of the plastic rubbing strip is missing. I'll do it another year, it's quite expensive per meter, and needs a lot of meters. I found a few places on google that do it, but none had the original cross section.
 
Hi

As I have already mentioned your post brought back many memories of my old SS.

The defects you have shown are exactly the same that I had, as mentioned on the previous post by srp, the way I repaired was to grind back to remove gel coat then rebuilt using West Systems epoxy and mat. In total I used around 20Kg of epoxy.

Don't be put off by all of this, it is repairable, just keep friends with your aircraft composite repair mate!

Keep the photo's coming especially once the repairs get underway.

Are you still on this forum Peanuts? Doing an S23 Daycab and could use some advice.
 
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