STATUE
Well-Known Member
I have bulkheads that are tired, scruffy, scratched.
One answer would be to veneer over it, most of it is verticle.
How to do it ?
One answer would be to veneer over it, most of it is verticle.
How to do it ?
Veneering insitu tired teak.
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howardclark
Well-Known Member
Not the easiest thing to do. You have the choice of using
1 a real teak veneer which is pricy and you would need to learn in situ about how to cut & join the veneer panels. I have just paid about £60 for a piece 4ft x 2ft
2 a teak finish formica which won’t look like real teak but will be tough as old boots
3 an alternative finished formica - my boat is mainly teak & iroko and I’ve brightened it up a bit with cream and white formica round the galley and in the heads.
can you clear the bulkhead(s) to give you a flat surface?
the biggest problem is cutting shapes. if you could make templates in something cheap like chipboard then its possible to use them to trim the formica type materials with a router - or if the edges have little curve perhaps with a handheld trimmer.
unless the shapes are simple I would suggest it’s very difficult to do on site
1 a real teak veneer which is pricy and you would need to learn in situ about how to cut & join the veneer panels. I have just paid about £60 for a piece 4ft x 2ft
2 a teak finish formica which won’t look like real teak but will be tough as old boots
3 an alternative finished formica - my boat is mainly teak & iroko and I’ve brightened it up a bit with cream and white formica round the galley and in the heads.
can you clear the bulkhead(s) to give you a flat surface?
the biggest problem is cutting shapes. if you could make templates in something cheap like chipboard then its possible to use them to trim the formica type materials with a router - or if the edges have little curve perhaps with a handheld trimmer.
unless the shapes are simple I would suggest it’s very difficult to do on site
Rappey
Well-Known Member
Are they good enough to sand back and re varnish ?
oldharry
Well-Known Member
Depends whether the original finish was a veneer. Very easy to sand through veneer and make a bad job a great deal worse!
superheat6k
Well-Known Member
I have applied teak glue backed iron on veneer to quite an area around the dash panelling. I cut the veneer slightly oversize on any exposed edges, but you have to get closed edges trimmed accurately. For awkward shape I used thin card to template the profile.
The difficult part is avoiding joints between strips separating. I dealt with this by butting up the edge of each added strip close to its neighbour then initially only iron the first inch whilst applying a gentle sideways push to keep the joint closed. Then let that joint fully cure before continuing to iron that strip, avoiding the heat getting close to the cured joint.
I finished with Epifanes varnish starting at 25% dilution with the correct thinner then gradually increase until the final coats go on at ~90%. After 5 years still looks like new.
The difficult part is avoiding joints between strips separating. I dealt with this by butting up the edge of each added strip close to its neighbour then initially only iron the first inch whilst applying a gentle sideways push to keep the joint closed. Then let that joint fully cure before continuing to iron that strip, avoiding the heat getting close to the cured joint.
I finished with Epifanes varnish starting at 25% dilution with the correct thinner then gradually increase until the final coats go on at ~90%. After 5 years still looks like new.
PCUK
Well-Known Member
Mundy veneers near Tiverton offer 0.6mm Teak Veneer in various widths from 150mm in set lengths. Machined edges so no problem joining edges. Not eye wateringly expensive And just buy what you need. We use a lot of this and have found that gluing it with Sikaflex or similar works very well using a fine spreader.
pandos
Well-Known Member
In the past we used self adhesive veneers. These were in 8 foot by 2 foot sheets... Approx 1.5mm thick.. they were expensive but when applied to aluminium box section they resembled solid wood, (we used them to fabricate counter top security screens in old style banks)
I imagine if you coatedf the existing bulkheads in epoxy, sanded smooth this veneer would stick really well and would be an excellent way to recreate the original appearance...
Peel & Stick Wood Veneer - Pressure Sensitive Adhesive Veneer
An easier solution is a 3mm sheet of veneered faced marine ply... Glued onto the bad bulkheads... Easy depending on your skills....I did this to deal with a load of old holes and some damp staining....I left them short at the bottom so it would be clear that the original bulkhead was not rotten at its base....
I imagine if you coatedf the existing bulkheads in epoxy, sanded smooth this veneer would stick really well and would be an excellent way to recreate the original appearance...
Peel & Stick Wood Veneer - Pressure Sensitive Adhesive Veneer
An easier solution is a 3mm sheet of veneered faced marine ply... Glued onto the bad bulkheads... Easy depending on your skills....I did this to deal with a load of old holes and some damp staining....I left them short at the bottom so it would be clear that the original bulkhead was not rotten at its base....
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Graham376
Well-Known Member
Pandos, How well do self adhesive veneers stick to bare sanded wood or, don't they? I've found the heated (iron-on) adhesive films used with paperback veneers were quick to come unstuck from bare surfaces. G.
Seashoreman
Well-Known Member
I have used iron-on in piano restoration with great success. But it can also be glued if you prefer as the backing doesn't activate without the heat. The glue advertised on Pandos link is excellent for this job.
Graham376
Well-Known Member
I wasn't referring to the glue back iron on veneers but the separate glue film which can be placed under normal or paperback veneer, this stuff -https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Glue-Film-Iron-on-Hot-Melt-Adhesive-Wood-Veneer-Adhesive-Crafts-/392667689009
Found that didn't like to stick to bare wood so, wondered how the self adhesive veneers compared.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
I have used small pieces of the iron-on veneers successfully. I found they needed considerable time at heat for the glue to liquefy sufficiently.
I followed the advice of an article in PBO a few years ago when veneering a table and bulkhead on my motorsailer. This was to use contact adhesive, in my case Thixofix. It worked well at first but varnishing seemed to soften the veneer, which bubbled. I then tried a water based varnish with little success.
For a later veneering job I used PVA wood adhesive, which worked reasonably well, although a few bubbles also appeared on varnishing. I was able to inject superglue into them, which stuck them down nicely.
I followed the advice of an article in PBO a few years ago when veneering a table and bulkhead on my motorsailer. This was to use contact adhesive, in my case Thixofix. It worked well at first but varnishing seemed to soften the veneer, which bubbled. I then tried a water based varnish with little success.
For a later veneering job I used PVA wood adhesive, which worked reasonably well, although a few bubbles also appeared on varnishing. I was able to inject superglue into them, which stuck them down nicely.
pandos
Well-Known Member
My experience with the self adhesive veneers I used were that they needed a non absorbant surface. . Like aluminium... Thus my suggestion of a sealer coat (eroxy)
Probably the retailers could advise better...
I recall that it was a 3m adhesive...
For small infill veneer repairs I would use waterproof pva or even gorilla glue but over a large area iron on or even contact glue will be very difficult...
Probably the retailers could advise better...
I recall that it was a 3m adhesive...
For small infill veneer repairs I would use waterproof pva or even gorilla glue but over a large area iron on or even contact glue will be very difficult...
pvb
Well-Known Member
I'd be tempted to try this route.
howardclark
Well-Known Member
I use both self adhesive veneers and in some cases contact adhesive. If you are fitting to a cut shape they can both be very awkward as you dont get a second chance. Because of that I will only use them on the workbench where I have a lot of control.
In these circumstances I think it’s easier to use a wood glue- on the boat I would use Titebond 3- which allows you to move the veneer position, I then clamp this in place with a suitable sized board and a spreader clamp or those things they use to hold up plasterboard ( got a couple of metres reach) pushing against the next bulkhead
In these circumstances I think it’s easier to use a wood glue- on the boat I would use Titebond 3- which allows you to move the veneer position, I then clamp this in place with a suitable sized board and a spreader clamp or those things they use to hold up plasterboard ( got a couple of metres reach) pushing against the next bulkhead