Varnishing teak toe rail

[noswellplease]

I wish to varnish a unvarnished teak toe rail and give it a nice honey coloured look. Any suggestions for preparing the wood to get the right effect or brands of varnish to use would be most helpful. I promise not to touch the teak deck. Cheers Russ

 

[michael_w]

Epifanes and lots and lots of coats.

Bored? Get the varnish out. My last boat's tiller must have had 30 coats.

Don't be seduced by the purveyors of snake oil. Brightwork means varnish and work. You don't see oil used on super yachts.

 

[LittleShip]

Most varnishes will do a reasonable to good job with enough coats on, the more the better.

They contain UV inhibitors so the more coats you put on the more UV resistance you get. That said there are some that seem to get better raves than others.

Le Tonkinoise, Eperfaines ect ect!

I have always used a water based stain on bare wood which has UV inhibitors in it and provides the colour I am looking for. I have even used water based varnish with excellent results which has stood up to 4 years, something the ordinary varnishes have yet to do. That said it may be because I only get three coats on and I need more.

This year I'm going to try Weathershield varnish as it says 3 year protection. Ask the question again in the year 2010!and I'll let you know if it's any better.

So, in short I'm beginning to think that it wont matter what you use as long as you put plenty of coats on!

No Help at all that is it?

Tom

 

[ebbtide]

Use Sikkens Natural - has an oily satin sheen, can apply in all weathers, looks good on teak, iroko, mahogany - What more can I say??
(except Thank You to the guy who converted me . . .)

 

[donm]

Another vote for Sikkens here. Did my brightwork including the rail capping in April and still as good now. Seems to deal with abrasion well and is easy to clean. It is also very easy to apply.

 

[PeterGibbs]

Somewhere between 4 and 6 weeks after you have lashed on the varnish, you will begin to notice black spots emerging at the wood/deck joint. Water is ingresssing and rendering your work an unsightly mess. The sun will blister the varnish and the oily nature of teak will have struck again - paint will not adhere! Then you will think of this post - that you dismissed too readily - 'cos that's what always happens and you can't do a thing about it.

Varnish is for items that can be completely covered all round.
All others are destined to fail.

PWG (long given up on varnish and learned to love the natural look of teak!)

 

[tcm]

oil would be ok though, easier too.

 

[samwise]

If you have loads of time and love rubbing down woodwork and the painstaking task of applying lots of coats of expensive varnish and becoming paranoid about touching up when your beloved brightwork gets the black spot (or a ding, as a toerail certainly will), carry on. My solution was to get rid of all the varnish and oils and just give the wood a scrub down with fresh water about twice a year. That gets all the grot out and the wood dries to that lovely honey colour you are looking for. Boats are high maintenance enough without making it more onerous. Incidentally, the water scrub system is used by Cunard on the QE2!

 

[wingdiver]

We used every type of method we could think of to varnish toe rails, hand rails and other exposed teak on our last boat. As has been said, despite rigorous preparation, nothing stays right. It partly to do with the environment you are trying to work in (i.e. no chance unless you have a nice warm workshop) and partly the timber.
On our current boat, we leave everything 'natural' except the large teak sections on the sides of the hull which we have used lots of Deks Olje on. It soaks in and the timber looks natural and fantastic. Water just doesn't penetrate it any more and sits on the surface.
Only takes a recoat every now and then to keep on top of it.
We'll never bother with varnish again.

 

[Aeolus_IV]

Hmm ... used Deks Olje D1 and D2 on the boat for the first time this year - the results are very good. The D1 is a matt finish, the D2 gloss.

Is the finish the same a many coats of varnish? Probably, after many coats of oil. But I only put three coats on (time was pressing), however (and probably of importance for a toe rail), this finish can be washed and "patched" by simply putting on some more oil where there has been any wear.

Anyway, it looks pretty damn good (in my eyes).

I have a picture somewhere ...... I'll see if I can find it.

regards,
Jeff.

 

[pyrojames]

That's my approach. Lots of coats and at least 1 preferably 2 or 3 every year. The thing that gets varnish is the little scrape or chip that lets the water in. The varnish will survive for a few months, so if you put a coat over every 6 or so you cover the chips and scatches. UV isn't really an issue in the UK.

 

[Ocean Hound]

I've just started using a Sweden remedy which is a mixture of Stockholm tar, boiled linseed oil & turps onto a prepared surface. OK it doesn't shine but has a good natural appearance and has lasted a full season and looks as though it will do many more if kept touched up. Used extensively in Sweden on teak decking and intend treating that next.

 

[Avocet]

I've done the "honey coloured teak" thing on our boat's toe rails. Even with cheap Ronseal exterior varnish about 4 coats will last a couple of years before it starts flaking off.