Varnishing question - non boaty

Twister_Ken

Twister_Ken

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We have a hardwood (iroko, I think) drainer and work top at home. I've previously treated these with danish oil to give a gloss surface. However the finish degrades over time, and the rate of degradation seems to be increasing. Now considering whether to varnish.

What do the panel think, and if yes, what varnish would be suitable? Should be hardwearing, long lasting, non-toxic, able to stand damp, warm (but not oven hot) pans, etc. Needn't be high gloss, could be satin or matt.
 
Ken,
not wishing to be MR negative but you might have problems putting varnish over an already oiled surface. Some-one with more knowledge might know otherwise.
 
Danish Oil v Varnish

Proper Danish Oil is a thin penetrating varnish. It contains resin and forms a surface film but at a much lower level than normal varnish. It is not an oil in the sense of teak oil.
Assuming what you have used is "proper" Danish Oil you should be able to varnish over without any problems
 
Hurley24 said:
Proper Danish Oil is a thin penetrating varnish. It contains resin and forms a surface film but at a much lower level than normal varnish. It is not an oil in the sense of teak oil.
Assuming what you have used is "proper" Danish Oil you should be able to varnish over without any problems
Click to expand...

You're right, you learn something new every day. Looked it up and got....

Danish Oil is a special formulation developed by Rustins Ltd. based on Tung Oil, also known as Chinese Wood Oil. The oil is extracted from nuts, similar in size to a Brazil nut, growing on species of trees found mainly in China and some areas of South America.

After processing the oil is blended with synthetic resins to improve hardness, and other vegetable oils. Driers and solvents are added to improve the performance and application properties, so that Danish Oil may be applied with a rag or brush.
The special ingredients used in the manufacture of Danish Oil penetrate deep into all types of timber, drying to a hard, durable and water resistant seal. Unlike varnishes it does not leave a thick film on the surface which may peel, chip or craze on ageing. The oil dries quickly in 4 to 6 hours, depending on ambient temperature and humidity, producing a non tacky surface. It does not, therefore pick up dust as will wood treated with linseed oil.
As it is a hard drying oil, it may be used as a primer or sealer on bare wood before applying other finishes, if required. Danish Oil may be used on interior and exterior woodwork and can be over-coated with a varnish or paint at any time, if it is desired to alter the appearance.
 
Seems like you reposted as a new thread and my reply was left high and dry on previous thread. So I will repost here:

Would certainly recommend Sicomin Wood Impreg 120, as mentioned above,
for your build up coats. It produces a good gloss finish but has no UV protection.
As this is interior stuff then UV shouldn't be a problem.
It handles summer temps in Turkey at over 50C so your pots should be OK.
My only caveat would be toxicity.You would need to consult health & safety product sheets.
If you want a matt/satin finish then you can overcoat with the appropriate varnish.
It is a French product but I am sure they retail in UK.
I can pm tech data sheets if required.
Cheers,
Chris
 
I'm afraid that old age makes it seem that everything happens more frequently, including christmas and oiling the draining board. This effect also tends to make you feel that you spend most if not all of your free time doing DIY but since you have more than one house plus an MAB - you do.

Varnished stuff near a kitchen sink won't last long at all and it'll be a *load* of work to redo it even if it works in the first place. More oil, gerrit lashed on...
 
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Varnishing question

As a manufacturer of bespoke kitchens for some 20 years I would recommend a product called Junckers Oil. Made by/for a Skandinavian company who specialise in wood worktops and floors it dries to an extremely hard finish and builds to a very high gloss if you put on 4-6 coats, if you want a varnish like appearance, the diffenence being that the first coats have penetrated the wood so unlike varnish it does not crack and trap moisture under a surface coating leading to peeling and the eventual need for stripping to recoat. Not as cheap as Danish Oil but a much better service life.
Regards
David
 
Twister_Ken said:
We have a hardwood (iroko, I think) drainer and work top at home. I've previously treated these with danish oil to give a gloss surface. However the finish degrades over time, and the rate of degradation seems to be increasing. Now considering whether to varnish.

What do the panel think, and if yes, what varnish would be suitable? Should be hardwearing, long lasting, non-toxic, able to stand damp, warm (but not oven hot) pans, etc. Needn't be high gloss, could be satin or matt.
Click to expand...

Traditionally Iroko drainers were linseed oiled
 
Excuse the lateish night post, insomia rules ok?

And I would def. ignore any postings by the flying dutchman, aka, ''Totally Cruising, Man'', whose concerns are based in the real word of the 'Oggin-( motto= ****up 'n u will drown).

What you want is acetone to degrease,,then a couple of coats of epoxy.. and further coats of any cosmetic varnish of your choice on top..

And now the 'orrible bit.. Somehow wood has paid my bills for the past 25 years, so joking apart, wot I say might even work,

regards Tim

ps, Iroko ?? Saving the good stuff for the boat tha's me boy
 
Blueboatman said:
"What you want is acetone to degrease,,then a couple of coats of epoxy.. and further coats of any cosmetic varnish of your choice on top..

And now the 'orrible bit.. Somehow wood has paid my bills for the past 25 years, so joking apart, wot I say might even work."

Glad to hear a fellow professional agreeing with me although I seem to be
the only one to have found Sicomin epoxy products.
Don't get any commision, just a great product.
Cheers,
Chris
 
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