Varnishing cabin sole

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asj1

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I will shortly be removing the floor panels of my Fulmar for tidying up, sanding down and re-varnishing. The question is what varnish to use. My local B+Q sell special "Floor Varnish" described as being very hard suitable for floors etc in Gloss or Silk - ideal I thought but then I noticed these were water based (wash brushes in warm soapy water etc) -- would this be suitable for the saloon floor where it inevitably gets a bit wet ?

<hr width=100% size=1>Andrew
 
I can't comment on the B & Q stuff, except to say that I won't use their paint - I'm not happy with their quality.

I haven't got wooden floors on my boat, but used le Tonkinois on my stairs at home. It's now 18 months old, and has stood up to a hord of teenagers pretty well. I reckon it'd do fine on your floor panels.

The disadvantage is that you'll have to get it back to bare wood, and if the panels are veneered ply, it's all too easy to sand right through the veneer, so a chemical stripper or hot air gun might be the way to go. You may need to do this with the floor varnish too. It all depends what's there.

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I used Ronseal exterior varnish. Sanded down the boards and applied 5 coats. After a seasons use they look like they were just varnished.

The was a specific reason why I didn't use floor varnish, but can't for the life of me remember. Something to do with the level of waterproofness.

RB

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B&Q's "yacht varnish" was featured in one of the tests a couple of years ago and came out exceptionally well and was either 1st or 2nd and definately the 'best buy'. I used it by in gallon tins to seal and polish my cherry wood parquet floor when new in the sitting room and it lasted 15 years before we did it again and that was only to freshen it up so I can't complain. It washes fine.
The difference in cost is staggering against so called superior varnish and may mean you do it several times in 20 years but you will be quids in and still looks good IMHO.

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://colvicownersclub.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk>http://colvicownersclub.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk</A>
 
We used water-based varnish on the bathroom floor 9 years ago and its almost like new despite frequent drenching. Can't remember make though. Dried amazingly fast - believe it was 2 hour overcoating.

<hr width=100% size=1>a pragmatist is an optimist with a boat in the UK - but serious about not being in the UK !
 
the floor varnish I have used in the past which is quick drying was an acrylic and water based. I dont think it will handle the damp.

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When I bought my yacht over 5 years ago the floor boards were in a bit of a state. I took them back to bare wood and applied 6 coats of International 2 pack varnish. They look as good today as the day I put the last coat on, it's very hard-wearing and keeps the wet out of the wood. The only problem is you have to get back to bare wood but that's not a difficult as is sounds

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International 2 part

Yes I used the same - 10 coats - 9 years later the new owners commented onthe newly varnished floors. The first year I used 6 coats of natural varnish - had to start again as it wore very badly. 2 part is expensive, but works - I cannot comment on the floor varnish route.

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Be carefull if covering oil based varnish with water based. I did this on a kitchen floor after following Dulux technical dept to the word re preperation. after a couple of months it all peeled off like sunburn.If going the waterbased route you will have to remove not only the old varnish from the surface but also the oil it leaves in the surface of the wood otherwise it just won't stick
Paul


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Varnishes and paint sold in the local superstore are not the same as yacht varnish sold in chandlers!
I onced used International purchased from B&Q to find that it did not resist UV and fall out.
Recently I have been using Blakes single pack polyurethane varnish (which is more like clear lacquer) and produces a hard smooth finish, like all oil and solvent based products they will adhere to previous water based finishes providing that the surface is cured and well keyed for application.

To enhance wood, Ronseal water based stains can be used providing a minimum drying time of 24 hours has past before honing the surface with red a 3mm scotch pad, Tacking off then applying an oil or solvent based varnish over it. Great results can be achieved with this method.

Hope that helps.

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When fitting out last year I varnished two test areas (about 4 sq. ft.)of the already varnished floorboards with Blakes Classic Varnish. Both test areas look very good after one seasons moderate use. There has been no problem caused between the new varnish and the underlying varnish (the makers said they used a Ronson product); I shall complete the floorboards with Blake's Classic this year.

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Yes I use the classic also....it gives wood a nice gold colour after about 4 coats. The only drawback is that it is oil based but a good varnish for areas not subjected to wear, unlike polyurethane which once cured hardens through its layers.

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I haven't used it on the floor but I used "Danish Oil" on some exterior wood this year. It goes on like teak oil but dries to a waxy finish which can be burnished, though not as shiney as varnish obviously. It resists water and would be ideal if the floorboards (as mine) have to cope with occasional inundation.

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We used B&Q quick drying floor varnish in our pilot house in the spring.

On a new oak floor we put down a 50-50 varnish-spirit primer, then just one coat of unthinned.

It worked very well except on the sikaflex caulking -- should have let it go off for another week I think. It needs a couple more coats really but we plan to sand down and clean up the sikaflex (went gummy and attracted lots of snad and bits so looks a little grey rather than nice black.

We will be using the same stuff. Pilot hhouse is very high traffic, lots of water, lots heavy scraping etc.

We were pleasantly surprised with how well it has performed especially given we are more or less full time liveaboards and that we didn't put very much of the stuff down.

All the best,

Nick

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Thanks to everyone who replied - some interesting but usometimes conflicting advice, I think on balance I won't go down the "water based floor-varnish route" but will get some matt polyurathane varnish. I may try a test piece with the water based to check though.

Thanks again

Andrew

<hr width=100% size=1>Andrew
 
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