Varnish or oil?

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jack_hank

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From previous experience could anyone tell me what the best options are for a long-lasting finish on freshly sanded decks. I don't want to darken the wood too much preferably to retain the colour from the wood now it has been sanded. Keep getting conflicting advice. Currently have plenty of marine varnish kicking around which I could use...

Any comments appreciated!
 
If this is a laid teak deck, then the answer is nothing. Definitely not oil as that attracts dirt. Not "varnish" because that makes it slippery. Just wash it regularly.
 
Tranona said:
If this is a laid teak deck, then the answer is nothing. Definitely not oil as that attracts dirt. Not "varnish" because that makes it slippery. Just wash it regularly.
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Teak deck is not being touched. Just other parts of deck around perimeter of the boat and the ledge that runs around the perimeter of the boat too (apologies not sure of technical name!)
 
jack_hank said:
Teak deck is not being touched. Just other parts of deck around perimeter of the boat and the ledge that runs around the perimeter of the boat too (apologies not sure of technical name!)
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then suggest Sikkens Cetol. Microporous stain that finishes with a sheen rather than gloss. Easy to apply and long lasting. Gives a good contrast to bare teak deck.
 
Tranona said:
If this is a laid teak deck, then the answer is nothing. Definitely not oil as that attracts dirt. Not "varnish" because that makes it slippery. Just wash it regularly.
Click to expand...

I'm of the opinion that even Teak deserves some treatment, or at least the 30yr old stuff on my boat does!

When I see sunbleached teak decks I can hear it crying out for some tlc!

I've been using Teak Wonder on the cockpit sole and seats and handrails and side deck toe rails. They'd not been touched for probably 10years and were showing the affects. Coarse, raised grain, some minor splitting and shrinkage where the rubber inserts are.

I also tried some Danish teak oil a handrail and toe rail (it is not oily when dry but does impart a water repellant finish).

Looks much better but time will soon tell whether it does attract dirt, although as its not oily I can't see why it would be worse than untreated Teak. (The total area is only a few sq ft so not bothere if it needs regular re-treatment)

Sadly the remaining woodwork has been varnished and is in a bad way. I will need to strip it back to bare wood next spring but it won't be varnished again.
 
jack_hank said:
Teak deck is not being touched. Just other parts of deck around perimeter of the boat and the ledge that runs around the perimeter of the boat too (apologies not sure of technical name!)
Click to expand...

I'm confused

Some woods and situations would have me heading for varnish - some would have me grabbing oil, others would be neither....

Is this a wooden craft? type of wood? age?
 
AIDY said:
or use semco.
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I used Semco last year on my new Manhattan based in Mallorco.

Gave all surfaces 4 coats and it looked terrific.

For a while that is until the stong winter and summer sun quickly took all colour away in patches.

I would have had to keep applying coats every week so chose to let the sun do its work and let the teak restore itself to its natural state.

Once applied it was also slightly slippery as it is oil based.

Must mention that I have no experience with Semco in cooler climates.

Now I just have the decks washed every week and again after using the boat and limit the Semco treatment to the teak table tops where it looks and performs great.
 
ianj99 said:
I'm of the opinion that even Teak deserves some treatment, or at least the 30yr old stuff on my boat does!

When I see sunbleached teak decks I can hear it crying out for some tlc!

I've been using Teak Wonder on the cockpit sole and seats and handrails and side deck toe rails. They'd not been touched for probably 10years and were showing the affects. Coarse, raised grain, some minor splitting and shrinkage where the rubber inserts are.

I also tried some Danish teak oil a handrail and toe rail (it is not oily when dry but does impart a water repellant finish).

Looks much better but time will soon tell whether it does attract dirt, although as its not oily I can't see why it would be worse than untreated Teak. (The total area is only a few sq ft so not bothere if it needs regular re-treatment)

Sadly the remaining woodwork has been varnished and is in a bad way. I will need to strip it back to bare wood next spring but it won't be varnished again.
Click to expand...

I think what you are describing is the final stages of the life of your teak deck and no amount of treatment will get them back. Raised grain, splitting and seams breaking away are classic signs together with plugs coming loose and wear close to fittings. 30 years is a good life for teak decks. See the thread currently on the liveaboard forum plus if you do a search, regular threads every 3 months or so on the subject.
 
duncan said:
I'm confused

Some woods and situations would have me heading for varnish - some would have me grabbing oil, others would be neither....

Is this a wooden craft? type of wood? age?
Click to expand...

Apologies, it isn't a wooden craft, it's a 52ft steel hull with aft deck in teak. Then has a perimeter deck made of some hardwood ( not sure which but will update) and also wood ledge below safety rails around perimeter of boat. Teak is being left untouched for now, just want to keep brightness of the freshly sanded hardwood! Thanks.
 
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