Varnish (internal) Solvent or 2 Pack?

[cygnusv]

Some internal varnish, like that on the top of our engine box, takes an enormous amount of hammer over time. We have a TV and all sorts of 'bits and pieces' that are moved, picked up and replaced all the time on the top of ours. It is a 'work' surface. After 63 years the existing varnish has the look of use and abuse. I intend to do something about this and drag it all into the 21st century.

I've had a fair bit of (amateur) experience with solvent based varnish, and can transform bits of wood. However, there are internal bits of our boat that get very heavy use that simply wouldn't harden quickly enough to do their job if I had to use normal solvent based varnish.

I've never used 2 pack varnish but I know that many members of this panel have. I'm looking for advice.

I need a product that will sit on a previously (decades ago) (prepared) varnished surface, and dry or 'cure' to a hard finish in a fairly short time. It needs to be a gloss finish that will not fail in a matter of months. It will not be practical to wait weeks or months for it to dry either.

Any recommendations? I'd rather read your personal experiences than a sales persons blurb.

Thanks in advance

 

[jwilson]

2 pack won't go over existing single pack oil-based varnish: it may well go wrinkly or soft and not dry properly.

Although longer-lasting and tougher than ordinary varnish it is also an absolute sod to get off when it does need doing. I made the mistake of using it once on yacht woodwork, and the time taken to get it off fully when it did start to break down was 20 times that of stripping normal varnish.

Our kitchen table gets Ronseal oil-based 'diamond hard' single pack and that gets a very tough life too, have varnished it twice in 14 years. Have also used it as 4-layer base coats on boat joinery before putting some more with satin mixed-in on top - two more coats. At least as good as any marine varnish. But does not solve your time scale problem.

If you want fast drying the water-based stuff is certainly that, but I'd not let it near a boat. I've used it for house floorboards. Goes milky if left wet long, but dries out clear again. Waterbased gloss is just not glossy.

I have some oldish Chinese furniture that was varnished with a cellulose varnish when it was restored, and have re-done the tops on a couple of pieces with cellulose. Drying is minutes, you have to work really really fast to keep a wet edge. Survives short term wetting, but will watermark rather easily if left. You can get four or five coats on in a few hours. Only problem is I had to buy it here in the UK in gallon cans, in Hong Kong every hardware shop sells smaller tins.

 

[cygnusv]

2 pack won't go over existing single pack oil-based varnish: it may well go wrinkly or soft and not dry properly.

Although longer-lasting and tougher than ordinary varnish it is also an absolute sod to get off when it does need doing. I made the mistake of using it once on yacht woodwork, and the time taken to get it off fully when it did start to break down was 20 times that of stripping normal varnish.

Our kitchen table gets Ronseal oil-based 'diamond hard' single pack and that gets a very tough life too, have varnished it twice in 14 years. Have also used it as 4-layer base coats on boat joinery before putting some more with satin mixed-in on top - two more coats. At least as good as any marine varnish. But does not solve your time scale problem.

If you want fast drying the water-based stuff is certainly that, but I'd not let it near a boat. I've used it for house floorboards. Goes milky if left wet long, but dries out clear again. Waterbased gloss is just not glossy.

I have some oldish Chinese furniture that was varnished with a cellulose varnish when it was restored, and have re-done the tops on a couple of pieces with cellulose. Drying is minutes, you have to work really really fast to keep a wet edge. Survives short term wetting, but will watermark rather easily if left. You can get four or five coats on in a few hours. Only problem is I had to buy it here in the UK in gallon cans, in Hong Kong every hardware shop sells smaller tins.

For the engine top, I could go right down to the wood. The top is less than 500mm X 900mm. I could take the whole lot (existing varnish) off, but what about any 'soaking' into the wood that is not visible after sanding? This area is really the only area that 'needs' the fast dry/cure. The rest of what I intend doing would be okay with a standard varnish.

 

[Tranona]

2 pot finishes do not "soak in" they cure as a hard film on top of the wood. You can get a high gloss finish and they are durable provided the film does not rupture. For an engine box cover as you describe I would consider a flooring type finish which will stand the abuse. However they do not have a high gloss finish.