Varnish advice

SvenglishTommy

SvenglishTommy

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Hello classic boaters,

I dont have a classic boat myself (well, it's 30 years old but it is plastic), but I thought I might get some advice from you experts on varnishing some new washboards I am making.

The washboards will be made from 12mm teak ply, with teak trimmings. Firstly, would you recommend that I seal them with epoxy before varnishing, or just dive in with the varnish?

Secondly, I dont really know much about types of varnish, but I have a tin of Hempel 'Favorite' varnish. Is that any good or should I get something else?

Any advice on technique/no of coats would also be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Tommy
 
I would seal the whole lot in epoxy, sand it nice and flat after it's been allowed to harden indoors for a week, then varnish 10 coats with epifanes varnish. Dont know hempels favourite, but some other folks might.
 
Cant remember the hardener ratio, normally says on the containers.
Yes, easy to epoxy, just like varnish, make sure the wood is well "wetted" to seal all edges, pores, grain.
Put plenty on, if it drips or runs, you can sand it out before putting the varnish on, "ample coverage" is the expression I use!
You may find it advantageous to wipe over the epoxy with meths, to remove the wax that forms on the surface, after it has well hardened, it clogs the sandpaper if you dont.
You dont really need to leave it a week, a couple of days will do.
 
The idea of thinning is that the first few coats sink into the wood. The idea of the epoxy is that it keeps everything out so there's no point in thinned coats if the epoxy does it's job. The epoxy does however need to be sanded (maybe 180 grit) to give a key for the varnish.
 
Yes, the thinner is necessary, but not the 50%, 25% and 15% I would go for straight 5% or 5% of owatrol. I get your point about the wood already being sealed. I wouldnt reccomend their thinners, but never mind you have it now. I normally use real turpentine.
 
Well the thinner I bought was actually the polyurethane one, so I'll just get some turps instead (been using white spirit in the mean time).

I've been experimenting with the epifanes on some scrap mahogany ply and my flag pole, but I cannot seem to get a good finish. I am applying the varnish neat now, and always get tiny bumps all over. I'm not sure if this is air bubbles, or settling bits, but they are there from the start.

Any ideas why this is? I am using a normal brush, the temperature is pretty cold (10-15C). I was thinking it must be either that the varnish too thick and not 'flowing' well, that I am using the wrong type of brush, I am applying the varnish too thickly, or that I just haven't got enough coats on yet (I'm on coat 4, but the flagpole was previously varnished). If I'm going to learn how to varnish properly I would really like to get that glassy finish, any suggestion where I am going wrong?
 
Not sure where you're going wrong, but keep putting the coats on, then on the last flat, make it really, really smooth, and put a last "shine coat" of 50-50% on, this will give you the shine you desire, without "lumps".
 
Dust is the problem. When you've sanded, wipe everything over with a rag moistened with turps. Use a tack rag just before applying the next coat. Don't work in a dusty workshop. Strain the varnish through a lint free cloth into a clean jar and use a brush you know to be perfectly clean, and make sure its a decent quality varnish brush. Close the door and don't let anyone come in - opening the door stirs up dust. If you do all that you might just end up with a decent finish.
 
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