Using the Heads.....

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ginwoodf

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Having sailed for the last year or so I now have time to, on occasions, pop on tiller pilot and nip below for a comfort break (!) The thing is, what is the little lever on the loo for?? It seems to take ages to flush, filling faster than it empties. Whats the correct 'procedure' ???
Gordon Inwood,
Seamasters made great boats.

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paulrossall

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I am a great beliver in all crew having a good 10 minutes in the heads before casting off.
Don't know about the small lever you are talking about, there are a number of different head systems. I have a Lavac which just has one big pump which sucks bowl contents out and brings in a smaller amount of sea water at the same time. A very quick, simple, reliable system. IMHO. What a subject for Xmas Day!

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mikesharp

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If it is a little lever on top of the pump housing and it is a traditional sea toilet (no holding tank) you need to push it to the right to puimp out and to the left to pump flushing water in. Leave it in the pumping out position just in case the flutter valve fails and the boat fills with water.

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HeadMistress

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The toilet should empty at about the same rate that flush water comes in...if it doesn't, it's an indication of a problem--if you feel backpressure, a blocked tank vent...or a buildup of seawater minerals and urine crystals in the discharge hose...or it could mean that the rubber seals, valves and o-rings are so worn that the pump can no longer work effiicently. Whatever the problem that's preventing the toilet from emptying efficiently, it should be corrected before using the toilet again.

The lever controls the wet/dryvalve--the valve in the pump that either allows flush water to come in or blocks it.

To use the toilet, pump once or twice in the wet mode to wet the bowl ahead of use. ..if for solids, adding a cupful or two from the sink first will help to keep the bowl clean. If flushing into a holding tank, you can extend the capacity of the tank by first pump enough times in the dry mode to move bowl contents all the way to the tank, then switch to the wet mode only to rinse the bowl and hose. If flushing directly overboard, it doesn't matter how much flush water you use, so you can use the wet mode entirely.

It's VERY important to flush enough to move the bowl contents ALL the way from the bowl to their destination (tank or thru-hull) and also to rinse behind the flush...leaving waste sitting in the line can lead to clogs and stinky hoses.

When the toilet is below the waterline, both the intake and discharge thru-hull should be kept closed at all times except when the toilet is in use. Relying on the wet/dry valve to keep water outside the boat from overflowing the bowl and seeking its own level inside the boat is a dangerous practice...because the valves have a VERY high failure rate.

<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
 
catmandoo

catmandoo

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best to flush with wate r before leaving a deposit because said deposit will stick on bowl and leave a mark which you will have to remove by vigorously rubbing with lavtory brush . Early water flush or prefilling bowl with water will even be better .

Its all about moving the turds efficiently as any good sanitary engineer will tell you

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alanporter

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I don't agree that the Lavac is "totally foolproof". What about when the seal wears and no longer produces a vacuum ? There is then no way to flush the toilet. It happened to me so I got rid of the Lavac and replaced it with a Par.


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sailorman

sailorman

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most skippers have a comprehenseve spares locker.
draw from spares locker to carry-out routine maintenence.
replace used spares a.s.a.p.
its cheaper than buying a p.a.r
which is what the first post was regarding.
u can flood if the p.a.r. lever is left in wrong position with poor seals
invest in a good bilge pump.
prehaps ginwoodf might buy your old Lavac?.

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G

Guest

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Heads or Tails ??

My Baby Blake has given good h ...... service for years and will continue to do so for many more I believe ....



<hr width=100% size=1>Nigel ...
Bilge Keelers get up further ! I came - cos they said was FREE Guinness !
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H

HeadMistress

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Re: Heads or Tails ??

Condition of the seals has nothing to do with whether the bowl can flood if the lever is left in the wet position in a dual action pump such as the Par...though it could in toilets like the Blake, which have a different type of pump that doesn't have a wet/dry valve.

In a dual action toilet, the lever controls a "gate" that moves to either block or unblock the opening to the head intake line...moving the lever to the wet position swings it open, moving it to the dry position swings it closed. When left in the wet position, water will rise in the bowl to boat's waterline even in a brand new toilet...and if the bowl is below the waterline, it will overflow and can sink the boat if no one is aboard to notice the flood coming out from under the head door in time to stop it. That valve can also fail...which is why it's so important to leave head seacocks closed when away from the boat.

It's also strongly advisable to install a vented loop in the head intake that's at least 8-12" above the waterline at any angle of heel. Not only does a vented loop break the siphon started by priming the pump, but it also creates a "hill" in the line above the waterline that prevents rising water from reaching the bowl. The loop should not be installed between the thru-hull and the pump, but must go between the pump and the bowl...to replace the short section of hose coming off the top of the pump, going into the back of the bowl.

However, even a vented loop will not prevent an effect known as "ram water"--water forced up a hose through an open thru-hull while underway by the pressure of the hull against the water. If the wet/dry lever is left in the wet position--or the valve fails, water will flood the bowl and overflow it...as many a sailor has found out. Which is another reason to keep head seacocks closed at ALL times except when the head is actually in use. Unfortunately, because today's typical boat buyer is more concerned with decor than safety, many boat builders today are "hiding" seacocks in locations that make that so impractical as to be nearly impossible...in which case, the best solution is a shut-off valve in the head intake line that is readily accessible, and can be used except when leaving the boat.

<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
 
G

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I respect your experience

But what has your post got to do with my Baby Blake ?? Did you mean it to follow on from another post ??

As an aside - I have always preferred the 'two' handle type of loo ..... biased maybe, - but I feel safer with a simple system without two-way valves etc.


<hr width=100% size=1>Nigel ...
Bilge Keelers get up further ! I came - cos they said was FREE Guinness !
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H

HeadMistress

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Re: I respect your experience

Sorry, Nigel...I didn't realize that tacking a reply onto the last post is a reply specifically to that poster...my comments were intended as general information to the original poster and any others who might find the information useful.

Like you, I also prefer design of the Blake (here in the US, also Groco K and Wilcox-Crittenden Skipper)...but due to their MUCH higher price, they're not found on many boats. A shame too...because it's cheaper in the long run to buy one toilet built to last at least 100 years than it is to keep replacing cheap toilets every few years.

<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
 
G

Guest

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No prob ....

I bow my Head to you !!!!

Cheers and Happy New Year



<hr width=100% size=1>Nigel ...
Bilge Keelers get up further ! I came - cos they said was FREE Guinness !
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H

HeadMistress

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<Blush>

Cheers and a very Happy New Year to you too, Nigel!

And the same to ALL of you!



<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
 
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