Using brick cleaner on me props question

[cliffdale]

I thinks it constists of dilute hydrochloric acid?

The question is, can I apply the stuff to the props whilst they are still on the legs. I'm thinking about soaking them with a paint brush but I am worried that I may seize them to the prop shaft by acid reaction.

Do I need to take the props off or will it be ok.

Cheers

Cliff

 

[spannerman]

I used aluminium wheel cleaner for many years on my stainless prop sometimes while on the leg with no problems, similar stuff I imagine.
Bit its only a couple of minutes work to take the prop off, which you should do from time to time to remove the old grease and apply new so that if you ever have to change a prop at sea you know it won't have seized on the shaft.
Also if its a Volvo leg its worth removing the prop to check there is no fishing line or sea grass round the shaft wear it can damage the seals.
Mercruisers don't suffer from this as they have a metal shield built into the seal.

 

[gjgm]

I thinks it constists of dilute hydrochloric acid?

The question is, can I apply the stuff to the props whilst they are still on the legs. I'm thinking about soaking them with a paint brush but I am worried that I may seize them to the prop shaft by acid reaction.

Do I need to take the props off or will it be ok.

Cheers

Cliff[/QUOTE
I did it with them on, but confess I did the lower blade,cleaned that one,then turned the prop and then the next one. They werent that bad, and it only took maybe a minute per blade, so hardly a lenghty job. Causes quite a fizz, so dont get this on hands,face or eyes, thats for sure.

 

[splosh]

You won't make them seize to the shafts at all - in fact you'll be cleaning the shafts of scale efectively with the run off of the brick cleaner.

As some say, I would take the props off and check for fishing line and in fact give the splined shafts a clean up with brick cleaner at the same time, all makes it easier to remove and refit the props next time round.

 

[dragoon]

I did mine this season with Brick Cleaner. They were in desperate need of a proper clean and the brick cleaner took some time to work - put it on, wait an hour or so, scrape, put it on, wait etc etc.

The only thing I was careful of was not getting the stuff on the cutlass bearings. I also did plenty of flushing with water when I was done.

I imagine if they're not too caked-up it will be fast acting. It does seem to soften all the unwanted stuff, but doesn't magically disappear as I hoped.

Cheers,
Paul

 

[VicS]

The composition of brick cleaners varies.

choose one with several % of hydrochloric acid in it ... see the manufacturers safety data sheet .. and it should clean a prop fairly quickly.

 

[Renegade_Master]

Overhere we use Aguaferte (think thats spelt right) used for cleaning ceramics etc, very effective on props and shafts, however as others have said try not to get it on the cutlass bearing, i.e. before you apply above the bearing on the shaft mask off the top sectiopn of the bearing around the P brkt

I know this does not apply to the OP but theory is the same keep it away from leg seals etc

 

[dragoon]

The composition of brick cleaners varies.

choose one with several % of hydrochloric acid in it ... see the manufacturers safety data sheet .. and it should clean a prop fairly quickly.

Good point, Vic. I used B&Q's own brand, but without finding the bottle I'm not sure of the composition of it. I certainly felt it could be stronger, but then there was a lot of residual barnacle layering on there.

Cheers,
Paul

 

[Hurricane]

As Clive, above, I used Aquafuerte (am I'm not sure how its spelt either) - I think the literal translation is "fire water".
I've also used brick acid before and IMO the Aquafuerte is stronger - and you can buy it the the supermarkets in Spain. I dont think anyone would be able to sell it in the UK - H&SE etc...

I know that others on these forums have used brick acid and if you can take the props off, I think you will actually save time because doing it "in situ" can be a long job - painting the acid on - then scraping - then painting more acid and then more scraping etc.
However, if you can get the props off and put them in a bucket of brick acid and then just leave them for a while - I believe that they end up like new.

 

[davedpc]

The Spannish boatyard in Fuengirola that a/f my mates props and p brackets on his Sealine S37, used about 5 ltrs. of firewater each side which was deffinitely hydrocloric acid undiluted. It stripped of all the barnicled etc. in seconds and left the metal all shinny.