URGENT - Change anodes whilst in the water???

[nickjh]

Hi all,

anyone know anyone who could change anodes on a Bravo 3 leg in the marina whilst in the water?

Just returned from being away for 7 weeks and the ram end anodes are nearly gone!!!!

Appreciate any ideas or help!

Thanks,

Nick

 

[Nick_H]

you??

 

[nickjh]

Would if i could but I can't! I have never changed them myself out the water, let alone in it! Plus I work around London, so can only get down at weekends.. and the next 2 are out of the question due to being away.. Again!

Not sure the leg will be there if i left it that long!

Any other ideas?

 

[byron]

<span style="color:blue">
I have seen this done by getting a whole load of people standing on the bow (inc. a dog) bringing the leg right out of the water. Then the guy changed it while we all giggled like a load of schoolgirls. I have a photo somewhere but damned if I can find it. </span>

 

[powerskipper]

a diver should be able to do it, talk to your marina or peeps that service your stuff, they may be able to help.

 

[duncan]

why not just get the boat lifted out now and put on the hard - should stop the drive getting damaged and you can have the hull cleaned off, new anodes fitted etc and get it put back in when you next want to use it?
If the anodes are that far gone I assume it hasn't been out for a bit anyway?
If the ram ends have gone the cavitation plate will have gone too - although that's the easy one to replace in the water.

the problem with changing the ram ones underwater is that you have to clear around the 8mm bolt heads to remove - 2 seconds with a jet wash but hassle scrapping around underwater. If you do it yourself have a couple of 8mm nuts and a bit of grease to 'shim up' the socket enabling you to drive the new bolts in - makes it a lot easier to locate them.

If the drive starts going it will go pretty fast I am afraid - from what you say I would be calling the marina and making arrangements today. Where is the boat?

 

[nickjh]

Thanks all, she is in Haslar marina.. I have just called Seaway, they are going to let me know about a lift out.. Maybe Weds/Thurs!
I am starting to worry now!
I reckon on there being about 20% of the original ones left!

 

[andy_wilson]

How many people does it take to change an anode in a marina?

(Based on £35.00 per hour or part thereof).

2 to turn MOBO around in berth if required and moor stern-to main pontoon. £70.00

4 to stand on foredeck, plus 2 to change anode. £210.00

1 to go and find another couple of big 'uns 'cos it's still a bit under water. £35.00

2 more passers by who have 'eaten all the pies', but don't let that stop us charging the poor [--word removed--] with the disolving drive leg. £70.00

£70.00
£210.00
£35.00
£70.00
Total £385.00 plus VAT and parts.

OR if the main team of 6 slip into the next hour £595.00.

Sounds like a lads weekend with all your fattest mates is on the cards!!!

 

[BlueJasper]

Re: How many people does it take to change an anode in a marina?

Changed the ram end anodes myself on an Alpha 1 drive in May as they were virtually falling off. I left the rest as they were and lifted the boat at the end of August. The remainder were only down to 50%.

Another few days won't hurt.

Phil.

 

[tcm]

Emergency bodgeup option

I spose you can lash (with metal connexion of course) any old sacrificial anode to the stern gear if you plan to leave the thing for a few weeks. Er in fact, it might be an idea to do this anyway to reduce the eating away of expensive special part anodes whilst away from the boat - just make sure there's no chanch of starting the boat.

Real tight gits can scour the boatyards for old half-used anodes for exactly this pupose. Or of course, with a camping gaz and crappy old stolen saucepan from swmbo and some plaster of paris, meltem down to make your own anodes.

 

[duncan]

20% of the ram ones plus a reasonable amount on the cavitation plate should be fine for a couple of weeks.....if the cavitation plates gone then it might not be!

Cheapest/easiest option would be to get someone to check/change cavitation plate anode then head off to a sandy beach to change the others yourself asap

Best would be a lift asap, clean off, new anodes on the drive and back in when you need it next. This may of course be somewhat expensive..........

 

[KevB]

[ QUOTE ]
I am starting to worry now!


[/ QUOTE ]

If it's not plugged in to the shore power you shouldn't have a problem. I used to leave my boat plugged in all year round and got through at least three sets of anodes each year. I now only have it plugged in when I'm there and am still on the original set fitted in march without any undue signs of errosion.

 

[duncan]

Re: Emergency bodgeup option

the BIII really likes it's own aluminium based mix and will tend to melt the drive rather than harm a normal zinc based anode - as I found out to my cost when someone fitted cheap copies some years ago! About as much use as hlb's stainless anodes!

have plenty of sare bit lying around from old anodes I have removed though - would I be really able to melt them with a camping gaz stove?

 

[tcm]

galavnic isolator would achieve the same i think

 

[duncan]

sorry Kev but crap

I don't have shorepower, the pontoon's don't have electricity and I my BIII anodes last 6 months max - 4 months realistically in good working shape.

On the occassion that a muppet fitted copy anodes it took 4 weeks for the drive to seriously disintegrate - eg a full 2 inches were lost from the skeg.

2 seriously large stainless props attached to a light alloy sitting in salt water doesn't need any help from leaking earths etc to get going.

 

[KevB]

Sorry but it's not crap unless you have a serious problem with the electrics on your boat.

"Galvanic corrosion occurs when dissimilar metals in contact with water share a common earth point. Most boat owners are familiar with the corrosion that can occur between a brass propeller and a steel hull for example and most vessels are protected with sacrificial anodes that corrode in preference to your beloved boat".

"A further corrosion potential exits where two vessels are connected together through the earth connector of a shore supply. Imagine an aluminium boat moored on one side of a pontoon with a steel boat on the other, both connected to a common shore supply. Can you see the similarity with the propeller/hull scenario above? Think that your anodes will protect you? Well think again - what you need is a galvanic isolator on your earth lead to prevent voltages below 1.1 volts from being generated whilst at the same time not impeding larger voltages which might occur in a safety situation".



Or should I say YOU have a serious problem with the electrics on your boat /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

And or a problem with Bravo legs?

 

[duncan]

[ QUOTE ]
If it's not plugged in to the shore power you shouldn't have a problem

[/ QUOTE ]

is inconsistent with

[ QUOTE ]
Galvanic corrosion occurs when dissimilar metals in contact with water share a common earth point. Most boat owners are familiar with the corrosion that can occur between a brass propeller and a steel hull for example and most vessels are protected with sacrificial anodes that corrode in preference to your beloved boat

[/ QUOTE ]


[ QUOTE ]
A further corrosion potential exits where two vessels are connected together through the earth connector of a shore supply.........

[/ QUOTE ]

I wouldn't disagree with this at all - but it' s a further corrosion issue not the onlly one

your post implied (well stated actually) that without shorepower being involved there should be any danger to a leg from galvanic corrosion - I contend (still) that that is crap; and the quotes from your latest post would seem to support me.

 

[mainshiptom]

Yet an other reason why not to be in an upmarket marina !

Tom

 

[KevB]

Firstly I said shouldn't and not wouldn't and was implying for the two week period. Which I stand by.
Speaking from my on going current (excuse the pun) experience, not having the shore power plugged in GREATLY reduces the anodes being eaten away. In my case this is fact not speculation.

The effect of galvanic corrosion between dis similar metals connected only to a common earth on the same boat is miniscule compared with that of a boat connected to shore power.

Of course it could be that I have Volvo 290 legs which we all know are far superior to bravo legs. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[duncan]

from a galvanic corosion perspective the 290's win hands down over the BIII - no problem agreeing that!

I am not questioning eithr your statements of your experience or the logic behind them either - doing well eh!

I am suggesting that your initial post was at best misleading in this case - were I to have made my comments to someone concerned about low/missing anodes on an alloy propped 290 moored in a queit location away from shorepower etc I think you would (rightly) have called them crap.

/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif