Two part varnishes - cabin floors?

[carrswood]

Afternoon all
I would like to re-varnish my nice teak and holly cabin floor with a tough / hard wearing Gloss varnish. But I don't know which product to choose. On other boats in the past (not floors however) I have generally used Epifanes single part varnish. Reading around i understand the International Goldspar is a very good varnish.

BUT for durability my chandlery has suggested I use a two part varnish like International Perfection.

Has anyone plugged for the two part option for their floors etc?
Many thanks

 

[xtiffer]

People are always prone to dropping things and dinks in floors are always happening.
I would, thus, suggest a clear epoxy primer such as Sicomin Wood Impreg 120 ( 4 coats) plus 5 coats of a good polyurethane varnish such as Map Yachting PU360 UVR.
The result will look the same as 20 coats of Epifanes but the wood
will be sealed and highly resistant to dinks.
Don't bother with International; any pro varnisher avoids it like the plague.
Cheers,
Chris

 

[chart5011]

I've had good results from Ronseal Diamond Hard Floor Varnish. Very hardwearing at home and seems well up to the job on-board. Easy to apply also.

 

[DownWest]

For floors inside, good domestic sounds a better financial bet than fancy exterior marine grades. I use a Resoltech water based epoxy resin which looks like varnish and is tough but not very U-V resistant. Inside doesn't matter.
A

 

[ccscott49]

People are always prone to dropping things and dinks in floors are always happening.
I would, thus, suggest a clear epoxy primer such as Sicomin Wood Impreg 120 ( 4 coats) plus 5 coats of a good polyurethane varnish such as Map Yachting PU360 UVR.
The result will look the same as 20 coats of Epifanes but the wood
will be sealed and highly resistant to dinks.
Don't bother with International; any pro varnisher avoids it like the plague.
Cheers,
Chris

Chris,
where do you buy this stuff? The website looks a little daunting and I cant seem to navigate it. Where is it available retail and how much does it cost? Thanks for any help.
Colin

 

[ccscott49]

Further to my last post. I have been using Awlspar and will use awlbrite, is this PU 360 UVR, similar to awlbrite, it sounds similar and is it as eyewateringly expensive as awlspar etc?

 

[KAIROS]

Leave cabin sole raw

Varnished cabin-soles are hazardous. Well, maybe not if you put some non-skid granules in the top coat. A raw teak sole is about as good as it gets. A varnished deck is a hazard too. Like a skating rink when wet.

I suppose golf shoes would overcome the slippery varnish

 

[xtiffer]

The place to go is www.mcmc-uk.com/paints/index.html
PU360 UVR is a clear polyurethane topcoat but the major strength comes from
the Wood Impreg 120 which is a clear epoxy primer.
I am in Turkey so I can't give you advice on retail sources in UK but the above site should help.
Prices here around Euro40 per litre for Wood Impreg and Euro55 per litre for PU360 UVR.
The products were designed with spars in mind by the way.
Hope that helps.
Cheers,
Chris

 

[ccscott49]

The place to go is www.mcmc-uk.com/paints/index.html
PU360 UVR is a clear polyurethane topcoat but the major strength comes from
the Wood Impreg 120 which is a clear epoxy primer.
I am in Turkey so I can't give you advice on retail sources in UK but the above site should help.
Prices here around Euro40 per litre for Wood Impreg and Euro55 per litre for PU360 UVR.
The products were designed with spars in mind by the way.
Hope that helps.
Cheers,
Chris

Chris,
Thanks for that. Awlspar is much more expensive. Sounds a similar product to the awlbrite. Is it easy to apply and just how good is it, longevity etc. You obviously have experience with it. My boat is in the meddy and I'm looking for somethimng with the longevity of coelan but the look of proper varnish.

 

[xtiffer]

Very easy to apply but use throw-away brushes for the Wood Impreg (itis cheaper than buying the brush cleaner). You can also recoat without sanding 24hrs- 6days but I would not go more than 2 coats without sanding.
I have only been using it for 2 years so longevity is difficult to judge but so far I am very impressed.
I think it would easily be your best bet if you are a perfectionist like me.
Cheers,
Chris

 

[KAIROS]

Varnished cabin-soles are hazardous. Well, maybe not if you put some non-skid granules in the top coat. A raw teak sole is about as good as it gets. A varnished deck is a hazard too. Like a skating rink when wet.

I suppose golf shoes would overcome the slippery varnish

Greetings. I'm new here and look forward to the exchange. I've just been approved by the administrater, so my post (which I've quoted here) just magically appeared in the middle of this thread. I do feel strongly about this topic, so I am redirecting attention to my original post. Just this once. G'day.

 

[xtiffer]

3M transparent non-skid tape thoughtfully applied does the trick.
Cheers,
Chris

 

[Tradewinds]

3M transparent non-skid tape thoughtfully applied does the trick.
Cheers,
Chris

Does this tape stay stuck or do the chemicals in the varnish attack the adhesive over time & it just starts to roll-up at the edges?

 

[KAIROS]

nonskid

3M transparent non-skid tape thoughtfully applied does the trick...

I sprinkled tiny, transparent non-skid spheres (interlux?) onto the wet top coat. It gives the finish a satin look.....not a bad compromise, and durable. This was on already-varnished fir planks though. If I had a teak sole, I'd leave it raw. It doesn't stain like some other woods.

 

[xtiffer]

Does this tape stay stuck or do the chemicals in the varnish attack the adhesive over time & it just starts to roll-up at the edges?

As long as you make sure it is applied correctly and preseed dowm firmly on the edges then there should be no problem with adhesion.
Cheers,
Chris

 

[doug748]

I quite like a matt or semi matt on wood below decks but find if the cabin floor is finished in that way it makes an older boat look a little tired. So I stick to gloss in that area.
I use a length of 3ft * 6ft non slip on the sole when at sea which works well on my small boat. This stuff used to be very expensive but is now available in cheap/£ shops.

 

[ccscott49]

I sprinkled tiny, transparent non-skid spheres (interlux?) onto the wet top coat. It gives the finish a satin look.....not a bad compromise, and durable. This was on already-varnished fir planks though. If I had a teak sole, I'd leave it raw. It doesn't stain like some other woods.

Teak does stain, especially in the galley area. I'm not sure you know what these guys are talking about, it's teak and holly VENEER on ply, the veneers these days are very thin, less than 0.6mm, so no room to clean and/or sand, and being inside, no sun to bleach it, that's why its best varnished. Teak planking would be a totally different kettle of makerel.

 

[KAIROS]

get grit

...that's why its best varnished....

I get your point. Real teak planking (interior) can be scrubbed occasionally so it doesn't get ugly.

In the case of a veneer cabin sole, if it must be finished add non-skid to the top coat. I think good traction is a critical issue on a boat. When I see a shiny sole or deck it 'reflects' D)poorly on the skipper.

I was going to preface that with 'In my humble opinion', but this is one of those issues I can't be humble about. With respect, though.

 

[xtiffer]

Absolutely agree that slippery gloss varnish can be very dangerous.
However I don't think you need to add grit to it all, that looks a bit overpowering.
Hence my suggestion of non-skid tape on key area such as companionway steps etc.
You could always put a top coat of matt varnish on too.
Cheers,
Chris

 

[Saunterer]

bondaseal

hi there we use bondaseal g4 you can get it from builders merchants, coat on coat fast drying and designed for factory floors, lovely rich finish, i use on my galley top, mast etc. great stuff. just make sure you get uv proof one, it lasts longer.