TV and DVD from the batteries.

I don't think its one of those and it does not seem to have any markings, but I will have another look next time I am on board. Its on an Azimut 43 and they do seem to fit good quality kit, although it does have Sealand toilets!

OK - I suspect that they will have used a good quality DC/DC converter.

I believe that Sealand (Dometis) do, in fact, make good toilets - not all Sealand toilets are Vac units!!
 
After some contortion, I have found the following markings hidden behind the fuses and connections -
ZG ZETAGI Switchmode Reducer. In 20v-30v (fused 50a) out 13.5v (fused 30a)
Trusting that 13.5v is OK for the TV.
 
Well - 13.5v isn't 12v
So, I would play safe and install a voltage stabiliser that actually outputs 12v.

I'm not accepting responsibility. but I believe a voltage stabiliser is completely unnecessary Anything electronic has voltage stabilisers onboard, to deal with variations in the supply voltage that happen all the time with anything powered from the mains via a transformer. Manufacturers are well aware that precise supply voltages can't be guaranteed.
 
I'm not accepting responsibility. but I believe a voltage stabiliser is completely unnecessary Anything electronic has voltage stabilisers onboard, to deal with variations in the supply voltage that happen all the time with anything powered from the mains via a transformer. Manufacturers are well aware that precise supply voltages can't be guaranteed.

I agree.
But is experience thats talking.
I have had devices pop when the voltage wasn't stabilised to 12v.
It seems from the posts above that the TV in question seems tolerant so you MAY be ok.
I know what I would do.
 
I agree.
But is experience thats talking.
I have had devices pop when the voltage wasn't stabilised to 12v.
It seems from the posts above that the TV in question seems tolerant so you MAY be ok.
I know what I would do.

The Samsung tv is tolerant (I cant speak for any other), my older Lowrance chartplotter wasn't. Started the engines one to many times with it on and it terminates all services in protest forthwith. Having a "whole boat" stabiliser makes a whole lot of sense, but just for one device given it is in the grand scheme of things a cheap consumable (compared to a laptop, MFD etc) maybe not so much.
 
Most tuners I have had have started off in the initial setup asking what country I was in giving a dropdown list and from that further regional submenus if it picks up a conflict. My latest cannot auto determine if I am in Wales, IOM or North West as I receive all the signals (plays hell with the EPG). That being given I'd say check the DVB tuner compatibility. I suppose the easiest is if the manual has a French and Italian section you're cooking with gas, otherwise it should be easy enough to investigate
 
I bought a Samsung TV in 2006 with DV-B tuner and it worked everywhere on my 3 year trip to Malta and back, so I would guess that today’s TVs are just as likely to work.

My Samsung which runs off 14V spent its first 18 months running directly from the boat supply, so anything between 11.7V and 15.5V during that time.

I then found a regulator which supplies 12V, 15v, and higher, so it’s been running off 15V for about 5 or 6 years without problem.

I couldn’t find a regulator with a 14V supply and the correct adapter for the Samsung. Looked at buck boost type things, but couldn’t get round to rigging one up.
 
I got a 19" flat widescreen tv/dvd combi it was made by manta I got it off ebay for about £130 ish last year you could use either 240volt or 12volt included the cigarette plug so no wiring hassles involved
jon
 
Many thanks, everybody, for all the advice. I have ordered a 12v Cello 24 inch TV DVD with stabilised voltage built in, and will see if it keeps her indoors quiet while we are weathered in a port somewhere!
 
This is exactly the set up I've got and it works fine - not the greatest AV experience in the world but perfectly acceptable.

A couple of extras I have which you might find interesting.

I've got an AV-Link bracket, which allows it a degree of swivel, but also means that it can be really easily lifted off. I'm not keen on the weight of it swinging off an internal bulkhead - it's probably fine, but if we're going out to sea I prefer to remove it.

For that purpose I bought a neat little padded storage bag off Amazon. The TV goes in it and then all the cables tuck into a pocket on the front, as does a small (but effective) square flat antenna.

Finally, my boat stereo is on the same bulkhead. About £1.50 on a 3.5 - 3.5 plug cable means I can plug the headphones output of the TV into the 'Aux in' of the stereo and have vastly improved sound quality.

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