TV and DVD from the batteries.

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driver0606

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Hello,
Assuming converting a "mains" TV and a DVD player to 12 volts is rather complicated, I am planning to power them from the batteries when not on shore power. The specs quote 50w for the TV and 9w for the DVD player. I already have a 150w 12v to 220v convertor, but it is square wave. Will this work/damage the equipment, please?
Also would it damage the convertor if it is left permanently connected to the units when mains power is in use? If so, what automatic switching could be used?
Thank you for any advice.
 
Many TVs have an external power brick to convert 220v to 12v. Find one with a brick and connect the TV straight to 12v.

Also, as rubberduck said, go for one with built in DVD.

Avoid the inverter as it wastes a lot of energy, even when not used, just for the TV to convert it back to low voltage again. Also, get a LED TV as it uses a lot less energy and is usually much lighter.

That way, you can watch many times as long as you would otherwise be able to with your plan. You may have money left over too compared to a decent sine wave inverter.
 
driver0606 said:
Thanks, it would be a good solution, but I already have a neatly fitted TV and will still have to find 220v for the DVD player.
Click to expand...

Whats a DVD Player?
.
.
.
These days solid state seems to be the way to play films and movies.

Seriously though.
Be careful with these 12v devices.
Yes, they do operate from 12v but some aren't robust enough for the 13.8v you get with full batteries or can't take the sudden surges / changes in voltage that you get when connected to batteries directly.
For example, I bought a new Linksys router this year which has a 12v mains adaptor - connecting it to the ships 12v killed it.
I often use cheap voltage stabilisers - in fact, I have lots spread throughout the boat.
These are ones that I use:-
http://www.amperor.com/products/air_auto_brick/index.html
Made by Amperor - there are different models depending on the current drain of your device.
Easy to find on Ebay etc
Like here - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AMPEROR-Voltage-Stabiliser-12v-ADP-90DC-12S1U-/282710410961
Just cut the ends off and connect accordingly - remember to add fuses where applicable.

I suspect this one is one of the lower current rated ones - but should do the trick:-
http://www.boatshare.co.uk/12voltregulator/index.htm
Interestingly, though, to read the page warning with this device - see here:- http://www.boatshare.co.uk/power supplies/index.htm

So, to recap (taken from the above web site):-
Sets that have a 12 volt DC input in the back of them really should NOT be connected to a 12 volt battery supply without such a regulator.


And as I say, I've been using these devices for a long time now.
They power my docking and cameras, run my PC (and now my new Linksys router) and any LEDs on the boat.
I also use one to convert from 24v to 12v.
They just protect the expensive kit.
I even installed one in the RIB to drive the Garmin plotter which was becoming intermittent.
 
Last edited:
Thanks everyone. I will follow Hurricane's advice and include a voltage stabiliser. Then take Rubberduck's advice and go for a 12v system like Avtex. In fact, Cello and Freeview offer cheaper versions, any comments anybody?
 
Any boat that is big enough to have a tv and dvd, should have a decent invertor imho,
Contrary to what is posted above , a good quality invertor from Victron or Madtervolt have very high efficiency (approx 95%)
And can be used for many other domestic devices, which are usually much cheeper than the 12v Version

All imho

Happy new year to all !
 
I think avtex stuff is dated and expensive

Do you really want a dvd ? Why? DVD is pretty much dead and I don’t have one at home and doubt many others do either. Your dvd would pay for several months of Netflix. Just get a smart tv and run netflix. Some are 12v but if not an inverted of eBay is sub £50. I have Samsung smart TVs and a small inverter running them all.
 
rubberduck said:
Samsung do 14v tv's which run on 12v
Click to expand...

Yep, it's what I have. 32 inch, the largest to run off 14V. Hooked directly to the batteries with it's own isolator switch. *(tv isn't run with engines going or startup). No loss in any sort of quality running on slightly less than 14V and the kids give the TV a battering, not only on conventional use but also as a chrome cast gaming consol. Lasted 3 years starting it's 4th so out of warrantee and so far a good return on the +/- 250 quid it cost even if it died tomorrow.
 
BruceK said:
Yep, it's what I have. 32 inch, the largest to run off 14V. Hooked directly to the batteries with it's own isolator switch. *(tv isn't run with engines going or startup). No loss in any sort of quality running on slightly less than 14V and the kids give the TV a battering, not only on conventional use but also as a chrome cast gaming consol. Lasted 3 years starting it's 4th so out of warrantee and so far a good return on the +/- 250 quid it cost even if it died tomorrow.
Click to expand...

I'd still run it off a voltage stabiliser - or off mains with an inverter.
 
Hurricane said:
I'd still run it off a voltage stabiliser - or off mains with an inverter.
Click to expand...

I had an inverter, well I still have just not used. It's a battery killer unless the engines are running or a needless drain when they aren't and best without tbh. The tv runs fine and you are of course completely correct in your advice but we seem to get away with it just fine and if the truth be told I suspect the tv will die because of the hammering it gets in the Irish sea before it dies because it is running at 1.5 V below it's optimum. As I said, no perceived difference whatsoever when done through the block on mains or direct to battery.
 
I've a Cello Tv with in built DVD. Works perfectly off of a stabilised 12v adaptor (from cigarette lighter socket).

BUT.....I've used it probably once when I put the system together, along with a Sat feed, as I now simply watch content on an iPad.

Personally I wouldn't bother with a Tv / DVD if I was starting again. I'd stick to my iPad with 4G wifi hub.
 
On reflection, my 12v supply comes via a rather sophisticated looking box (anything with lights and cooling fins is sophisticated to me) that converts from the boat's 24v batteries. Would that be a stabilised supply?
 
driver0606 said:
On reflection, my 12v supply comes via a rather sophisticated looking box (anything with lights and cooling fins is sophisticated to me) that converts from the boat's 24v batteries. Would that be a stabilised supply?
Click to expand...

One of these - by any chance?
https://www.alfatronix.com/voltage-converter

A couple of years ago, I used the PV18s to drive a Fusion Amp - I wanted lots of amps so the usual voltage stabiliser wasn't powerful enough.
Princess use Alfatronix throughout - I suspect that other boat builders use them as well - good kit.
 
The one advantage of ye old DVD on board is lack of internet access especially when anchored in some remote beauty spots. There are plenty of TV/DVD combo TVs that run off DC, many have SAT receivers that negate the need for inefficient inverters. But inverter success depends on the size and capacity of the domestic battery system.
 
I don't think its one of those and it does not seem to have any markings, but I will have another look next time I am on board. Its on an Azimut 43 and they do seem to fit good quality kit, although it does have Sealand toilets!
 
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