Trying to re-attach soundproofing

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RIN

RIN

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And failing.
The soundproofing is coming away in the engine compartment on the underside of the cabin floor. i.e. its upside down. Is there a proper glue to use for this? I have tried twice, once with UHU and some other glue I can't remember. I was able to clamp the soundproofing tightly with wooden battens so there was a good contact. The soundproofing is about 2 inches thick and in very good condition, not the egg box type.

Any suggestions

Cheers
Richard
 
glue is not enough. I also used numerous washers found here under accessories:
https://www.asap-supplies.com/quietlife-soundproofing-fixing-washer-801022
https://www.asap-supplies.com/soundproofing-general-purpose-adhesive-801002
https://www.asap-supplies.com/quietlife-soundproofing-joint-tape-801014

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It has a 4mm fixing hole. My engine bay hatch is 3/4 inch marine ply skinned in FG and gelcoated. I just got appropriate length self tapping SS wood screws drilled a measured pilot hole a half inch into the deck so as not to create a crack and screwed them in but not so tight as to overly compress the soundproof sheeting.
 
BruceK said:
It has a 4mm fixing hole. My engine bay hatch is 3/4 inch marine ply skinned in FG and gelcoated. I just got appropriate length self tapping SS wood screws drilled a measured pilot hole a half inch into the deck so as not to create a crack and screwed them in but not so tight as to overly compress the soundproof sheeting.
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Thanks!
 
We use industrial glue, ( paste in tubes like silicones) its PU based product that hardens from moisture in the air, in Belgium available Brands: Wurth, and Tek7
 
I have done this job on two boats, contact adhesive seems to dry out in engine bay environment so not good. I have used Stixall, HB42, Sticks Like Sh1t and CT1, all I believe are hybrid polymers / ms polymers and are great all round adhesives for this job, the foam will degrade before the adhesive lets go. Just put dollops 6 inches apart or zig zag lines if you prefer and then support the sound proofing overnight with a suitable size board/ply panel. Good luck.
 
andy59 said:
I have done this job on two boats, contact adhesive seems to dry out in engine bay environment so not good. I have used Stixall, HB42, Sticks Like Sh1t and CT1, all I believe are hybrid polymers / ms polymers and are great all round adhesives for this job, the foam will degrade before the adhesive lets go. Just put dollops 6 inches apart or zig zag lines if you prefer and then support the sound proofing overnight with a suitable size board/ply panel. Good luck.
Click to expand...

It's not so much the glue that gives but the foam it attaches too in my experience. Hence I used the aerosol variant as it appears to wet deeper into the foam. I give an initial spray and I allowed it to dry then a second coat before mating surfaces together
 
Bruce, it depends on the foam, closed or open cell as they glue differently and closed cell is always better.
 
There are many kinds sure. I speak only of mine which had a mating face of open cell, then a lead "substitute type" material then two other layers of foam type before an aluminium foil sheeting. I went for the most expensive promised the most type in the hope it would drown out the engine noise. Alas, it works to a great extent but engine noise in the cockpit is still loud enough to be miserable. Especially when the SC's come on song.
 
Thanks guys. I'm going to see if I can buy one of the seals/glues mentioned in the thread and have another go. If that doesn't work I'll have to have a go with Bruce's self tappers and washers
 
BruceK said:
There are many kinds sure. I speak only of mine which had a mating face of open cell, then a lead "substitute type" material then two other layers of foam type before an aluminium foil sheeting. I went for the most expensive promised the most type in the hope it would drown out the engine noise. Alas, it works to a great extent but engine noise in the cockpit is still loud enough to be miserable. Especially when the SC's come on song.
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Bruce, what’s the technique for holding the soundproof material pressed up against the roof while waiting for the glue to set?
 
Contact adhesive, pretty standard in that you allow first coat to permeate and become tack free on both mating surfaces. Read instructions but normally about 20-25 minutes. Add a second lighter coat when almost tack free about 5-10 minutes mate and hold for 20 odd seconds. It should hold almost immediately and set very quickly. Dont apply when contact adhesive is still wet, it wont stick well at all and makes further attempts much more difficult.
 
BruceK said:
Contact adhesive, pretty standard in that you allow first coat to permeate and become tack free on both mating surfaces. Read instructions but normally about 20-25 minutes. Add a second lighter coat when almost tack free about 5-10 minutes mate and hold for 20 odd seconds. It should hold almost immediately and set very quickly. Dont apply when contact adhesive is still wet, it wont stick well at all and makes further attempts much more difficult.
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Is contact adhesive resilient to extreme heat of the engine room, or are the plastic washers doing all the work?
 
The adhesive I used bought alongside the soundproofing in the above link does yes. The washers support the weight, as cumulatively they are quite heavy, preventing the sound proofing delaminating and / or tearing off the glue, while the glue ensures a complete all round tight fit, then the edging aluminium foil tape seals it all off so water cant get in (which makes it lose some of it's sound deadening properties and also so heavy it will delaminate). It's a three step approach. On mine at least, miss any step and the result will have a shortened lifespan.
 
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BruceK said:
The adhesive I used bought alongside the soundproofing in the above link does yes. The washers support the weight, as cumulatively they are quite heavy, preventing the sound proofing delaminating and / or tearing off the glue, while the glue ensures a complete all round tight fit, then the edging aluminium foil tape seals it all off so water cant get in (which makes it lose some of it's sound deadening properties and also so heavy it will delaminate). It's a three step approach. On mine at least, miss any step and the result will have a shortened lifespan.
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You’ve inspired me! I can’t wait for spring to start work!
 
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