Trying the first time touch up paint my engines

[Boater On Thames]

After seeing the heat exchanger broken by corrosion. I realized that I should do something to prevent that happen again. So I am now preparing for touch up paint my two Volvo TAMD61A engines. It's harder than I thought especially the cleaning step as some areas are hard to reach. Now, I just using some wire brushes and cleaner to clean it. Bought a few bottles of spay paint ready here.

Let me know if any tips or advice to make this job easier or better. Many thanks

 

[dpb]

If corrosion is main concern, you could be better off just emptying a tin of something like ACF50 over them once a year.

 

[Portofino]

Corrosion from the inside , no external covering will prevent that .
Dissimilar metals , age mostly I suspect in your case .
Check + consider Improvement of the anodic protection .

If you are selling it them a cosmetic blow over has merit if it’s done right , no overspray on black pipes , labels etc .

 

[Boater On Thames]

Good advice. Will do them all. Not selling, just trying to improve everything a little by little.

The two engines from 1992 only had 930 hours on the clock. Most part looks good. Just some areas has a little pain come off. The most come off parts such as the start motor and the engine stand mount.

 

[Rocksteadee]

Take them out to do it

 

[Montemar]

I found it easier to get a can of paint and various brushes including a long reach one. Degrease everything first.

 

[oldgit]

I found it easier to get a can of paint and various brushes including a long reach one. Degrease everything first.

+1

£14.00. per tin.

 

[scottie]

Paint them white it shows up leaks better

 

[Kub Cat]

I use a wire brush to scrape off as much rust or loose paint as possible.

Next step is a rust converter. This reacts with the remaining rust to form a protective layer.

I then use an engine enamel which I can only find in spray cans. I spray this into a container and then use very small paint brushes, more like what an artist would use as normal hardware store brushes.

Spraying is just too hard to mask up as it gets everywhere.

 

[AndieMac]

I use a wire brush to scrape off as much rust or loose paint as possible.

Next step is a rust converter. This reacts with the remaining rust to form a protective layer.

I then use an engine enamel which I can only find in spray cans. I spray this into a container and then use very small paint brushes, more like what an artist would use as normal hardware store brushes.

Spraying is just too hard to mask up as it gets everywhere.

I do a similar process KC, only being ocd ;-), do a primer coat over the rust converter. Beware the rust converters are not created equal, for eg. the Bondall product you buy at Bunnings is marginal at best, having to let it dry for days before coating, and still not that great.
A product that was highly recommended but I have not tried yet is Wattyl Kill Rust - Rust Eeter.

The thing that turns me off an engines appearance other than rust itself, is evidence of overspray.

 

[Scubadoo]

I fine kurust rust converter very good and can last along time without an over coat of paint.

 

[Kub Cat]

Wattle Kill Rust is what I use as well, great minds think alike.

I am not happy with the white engine enamel I am using from Repco. The colour just isn’t right, mind you I think I have quite a few versions of white from previous mechanics.

Any suggestions on paint for the MANs?

I do a similar process KC, only being ocd ;-), do a primer coat over the rust converter. Beware the rust converters are not created equal, for eg. the Bondall product you buy at Bunnings is marginal at best, having to let it dry for days before coating, and still not that great.
A product that was highly recommended but I have not tried yet is Wattyl Kill Rust - Rust Eeter.

The thing that turns me off an engines appearance other than rust itself, is evidence of overspray.