Trip lines

Dave_Knowles

Dave_Knowles

Well-Known Member
Joined
28 Mar 2003
Messages
461
Location
Southampton - UK
Visit site
Do any of you use trip line for the anchor and if so how do you work out how long much rope it should have for any location. I was thinking of putting about 20m on but if I anchor in shallow water there will be a lot to catch on things.

<hr width=100% size=1>Take care.

Dave

Dave Knowles
Southampton - UK

http://www.MyCleopatra.co.uk
 
Yup. i use trip lines now and again. You should try and make sure that the line goes straight down from the floating buoy by tying on a weight or bit of chain about 5metres from the buoyed end. 20metres sounds rather a lot - does your anchor ever sit in 20metres depth?

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Hesitating to reply on an anchoring topic for fear of contributing to 100 posts on the subject.

On the few times I have used a trip I adjusted the line to a few metres more than the max depth. This would restrict its scope for fouling passing boats. I had also thought of using a lobster pot float I found on the beach, to keep others boats clear....

Some people have suggested using a small weight on the line to keep it vertical - a sort of mini Chum?



<hr width=100% size=1>
 
now would that be a real purpose for the Chum........../forums/images/icons/smile.gif

regarding 'trip' lines - most anchor designs are inherently 'self tripping' in normal conditions; ie if they are set rather than snagged then as you tighten up on the anchor you need little vertical force on the end of it's stock to release it (although it may have a few kilos of additional mud attached at times!)
A trip is used where a significant risk of snagging rather than setting exists. This can normally be broken down into 2 areas - firstly anchoring on rocky or foul ground with just about any anchor design or, secondly, where an anchor design is being used that snags more than it sets - eg fisherman.
Note that fishermen (not the anchor pattern) now tend to use a grapnel made of mild steel rods so that it can be pulled out by straighting in most cases or, if this fails, left and replaced for pennies.
You might also consider a trip more important if (1) you have an expensive anchor or (2) you are using all chain or a long chain - you won't be able to cut it easily so will probably have to leave the lot hoping you can get a dive team to recover in due course!
Finally the trip line isn't always going to get you out of trouble anyway and work best on the fisherman pattern, reasonably on the fortress, danforth, brittany, CQR etc but you are on a prayer with a snagged claw/M/bruce!
IMHO surveying your intended anchor area with your sonar/fishfinder before anchoring is a better investment of your time than a trip line unless you are forced to anchor in rocky areas.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Once got anchor stuck under a big thick chain. Eventually got anchor up, chain and all. Along with all these boats that came to greet us!! Often thought of using a trip line but aint got any string thin enough, also no tape measure to get right length. So probably leave anchor dangley on end of rope and fender!!

<hr width=100% size=1> <font color=blue>No one can force me to come here.<font color=red> I'm a volunteer!!.<font color=blue>

Haydn
 
If you're talking about a tripping line for the Flook, don't bother - pull yourself forwards with the main warp until it's vertical, and then the anchor will break out cleanly.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
If its any help ! Instead of tieing the line to the bouy, thread it through the eye,
And then tie a weight to the end of the line,
This makes it self adjusting.
Line goes from anchor up through eye of buoy down to small weight!


<hr width=100% size=1>
 
We've used one when chartering in the Med quite often when mooring stern-to, where there are no lazy lines. Usually it's with a CQR. Tend to add up to approx 1m. to the depth the anchor is in and tie a fender on to the line to keep it relatively vertical. This is also useful if you have to leave your anchor behind in an emergency, you can always find it again unless some "pesky dago" has nicked the fender, the anchor, or both /forums/images/icons/smile.gif.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Maybe the answer is to attach the end to the chain (rather than a bouy) so as you bring up the chain you eventuall come to the end of the rope disconect it and carry on pulling up the chain. If the anchor is then stuck all you have to do is pull on the rope and maybe, Bobs your uncle.

<hr width=100% size=1>Take care.

Dave

Dave Knowles
Southampton - UK

http://www.MyCleopatra.co.uk
 
My uncle Bob used to keep hens and geese. When he was not doing that, he darned the holes in my dads potato sacks. His wife, Aunt Addy made me sad cakes for my tea.

<hr width=100% size=1> <font color=blue>No one can force me to come here.<font color=red> I'm a volunteer!!.<font color=blue>

Haydn
 
for some reason the line seems to wrap around the chain or get caught on the shackle/connector on the stock and rather defeat it's purpose when I have tried this. Two ropes are even worse!

Love the self correcting tip Mike - best I have seen for a long while.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Thanks for saying so Duncan, simplest works best !
I use an old shackle probably couple pounds in weight if the weight you use is heavy enough it will hold the float a lot closer above the anchor, tide allowing of course.
But can still take a turn round the anchor chain when the tide turns, worth keeping a eye on.


<hr width=100% size=1>
 
If you were to feed the up rope through the bouy then put a shackle on the end but also round the up rope it would slide up and down the rope to the anchor stopping it from tangling maybe.

How long is the rope you use?

<hr width=100% size=1>Take care.

Dave

Dave Knowles
Southampton - UK

http://www.MyCleopatra.co.uk
 
Did think about doing what you are suggesting , but in practice what you are suggesting would form a noose possibly lassoing your prop or something. Which could happen if you were anchored in shallow water where the weight would touch the bottom forming the loop.
But on the other hand could work perfectly well !

As to how long the line should be, that would all depend on the depth obviously,
But thirty feet serves me well, can always use a longer line for a greater depth.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top