Treating Mahogany

Not oil. Best protection is a porous woodstain - either of the type used on household external doors or if nautically minded, International Woodskin.
 
Hello David,

I have some thing similar on board Talisman. Old Mahogany that gets lots of weather. Over the past 9 years I have tried many of the proprietary solutions to preserve both the look and the body of the wood. The one that is working best, with out fault so far (2 years) is a French made water based Epoxy named Resolcoat. I purchased mine from John at Trad Boat Supplies in Suffolk (http://www.tradboats.com/marineglues.htm).

4 coats applied in 3 hours and a great varnish like finnish, then a few coats of Le Tonkinous for UV protection and the Mahogany looks great with fantastic protection from the elements. Just keep the varnish together with a wipe down with white spirit and a new coat each year.

Hope that this helps.

Simes
 
Woodlouse said:
Varnish. It sounds like it's good wood, why would you want to do anything else?
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Because most conventional varnishes fail after a season or two. The location of this wood on the transom is the worst place on a boat as it is likely to get splashed with sea water and suffer from reflected light from the water.

Suggest you read the long term tests in either PBO or Classic Boat on durability of bright wood finishes.
 
Have the timber finished ready to fit (cut to size, planed, sanded, shaped etc) then have it vacuum impregnated with epoxy resin. Once the resin has set, sand the surface and treat with a UV resistant Varnish (Le Tonkinous has already been suggested). Should have no problems with the varnish peeling or any problem with water ingress (the pores in the timber being sealed with epoxy BTW, don't drop the timber over board when fitting - it will probably sink)
 
Tranona said:
The location of this wood on the transom is the worst place on a boat as it is likely to get splashed with sea water and suffer from reflected light from the water.
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Not on Windermere.

I dislike using stains. if they don't work, colourwise, you are committed. Also repairs or additions can be really difficult to match.
 
Lakesailor said:
Not on Windermere.

I dislike using stains. if they don't work, colourwise, you are committed. Also repairs or additions can be really difficult to match.
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The stains I am talking about do not necessarily have a tint in them - particularly the suggested International Woodskin. The key characteristic is that it is porous and does not flake or craze like conventional varnishes and they have good UV resistance. The only possible downside is you don't get a shiny furniture standard finish, which is not a problem on the proposed application where the OP is asking about protection.
 
Tranona said:
Because most conventional varnishes fail after a season or two. The location of this wood on the transom is the worst place on a boat as it is likely to get splashed with sea water and suffer from reflected light from the water.

Suggest you read the long term tests in either PBO or Classic Boat on durability of bright wood finishes.
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I'm well familiar with the properties and downsides of varnish. Unfortunately, after a lifetime of sailing and maintaining classic boats I can honestly say that there still isn't a miracle cure for keeping good wood looking good. If you neglect varnish then it will look shabby very quickly. However, a couple of coats a year, rinse the salt off when necessary and keep it covered in the winter and it should last a long time. In my experience it is frost that really blows varnish away, UV light and salt will take the gloss off which means you should put another coat on long before it causes it to fall off.
 
Woodlouse said:
I'm well familiar with the properties and downsides of varnish. Unfortunately, after a lifetime of sailing and maintaining classic boats I can honestly say that there still isn't a miracle cure for keeping good wood looking good. If you neglect varnish then it will look shabby very quickly. However, a couple of coats a year, rinse the salt off when necessary and keep it covered in the winter and it should last a long time. In my experience it is frost that really blows varnish away, UV light and salt will take the gloss off which means you should put another coat on long before it causes it to fall off.
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All the more reason not to use it if protection of the wood and long life are the two main criteria. The Sikkens on my boat (mahogany and a Douglas fir mast) are now 10 years in with only one refresher coat after 6 years.

The OP asked for suggestions to protect his wood. Varnish is not the best choice.
 
Tranona said:
All the more reason not to use it if protection of the wood and long life are the two main criteria. The Sikkens on my boat (mahogany and a Douglas fir mast) are now 10 years in with only one refresher coat after 6 years.

The OP asked for suggestions to protect his wood. Varnish is not the best choice.
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I assumed some kind of aesthetics were also required. If he just wants to protect it then creosote is probably his best bet.
 
davidpbo said:
Thank you for the replies. I have no wish to buy anything else. Will varnish take to Mahogany? I have some International original.
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Epifanes. Nothing else is as good. I've got 7/8th mahogany hull with cockpit and all internal woodwork mahogany.
 
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