Trapper 500 - cutlass bearing in P Bracket - Newbie!

[najsmith]

Think I need to replce my cutlass bearing. no grub screws on the side of the P Bracket - unclear how it atualy stays there... anybody got any ideas?

More acuratley - any ideas on how I can remove/replace it with this construction?

 

[robmcg]

Hi najs

I'm also a new Trapper 500 owner. For your problem, try
http://www.voy.com/106963/3/

It's about 4 posts down. You probably have the same issue many have in that the grub screw is either covered in old antifoul or has just 'gone'. Cutlass bearing is a tight fit in the P bracket so once it's in I don't think it will go anywhere!!!

 

[najsmith]

DAM! I suspect your right. Will clean back the P-Bracket to be sure.

really DONT want to remove the shaft for this. feels way to expensive & there are other things I'd liek to spent the time & money on - getting the hull looking great, replacing the mast wiring, checking out why the sterling charger isn't directing alternator charge back to No.1 battery... etc etc

 

[robmcg]

If the cutlass bearing has been in for a long time, it will be difficult to remove - blunt force with a big hammer and something to drift it out can cause the p bracket to move resulting in stress cracks on the trapper hull. If it is stuck in there good and proper and you can't get hold of a puller or don't want to make one then remove the shaft (not difficult) and use some heat to 'persuade' the cutlass bearing out. I would replace with a resin cutlass bearing rather than bronze as they are easier to shift. Did this last year on the Moody - incredible difference with a new cutlass bearing - even though I thought there wasn't much play in the old one.

Good Luck! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[najsmith]

Thanks.

I'd consider removing the shaft, but I'm paranoid about knackering up any alignment. Seems to be an exact science with expensive consequenses if I don't put it back right /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Plenty of food for thought though - thanks.

 

[chiefeng]

I wouldn't worry too much about the alignment as there is usually only the coupling that attaches the shaft to the gearboxat one end and the p bracket and cutlass bearing at the other.
Mark off both flanges at the G'box end so they go back together at the same places.
Mark off the shaft and the coupling so thay go back together in the same place. If the shaft has a Keyway you can't help but get coupling and shaft in the right place.
When you put it back together ensure all the marks line up and you shouldn't have any problems.
Rgds
Bob

 

[Spyro]

I have a trapper 300. the grub screw on the p bracket is on the starboard side, on mine it is a small hollow allen bolt so may just look like a hole in the side of the P bracket if it is full of old antifoul. If you do decide to remove the shaft your next problem will be separating shaft and gearbox half coupling.
Does it have a Yanmar YS type engine?
Have you seen Trapper Forum ?

 

[TigaWave]

As your signature suggests..use epoxy to align the bearing.

have a bearing that is a sliding fit in the bearing carrier, chock shaft until the bearing rotates freely on the shaft and in the bearing carrier. Slide it back in with a coating of epoxy (not high temperature) Leave epoxy to set, remove chocks, job done. Bearing should be perfectly aligned.

To remove, simply heat the bearing carrier and the bearing will slide out, without much effort.

 

[Gelfi]

See article in PBO about 18 months ago. It shows this job on a Trapper 500 together with a new shaft. You have to remove the rudder to slide shaft out and that means a hole in the ground or a lift with the boat yard crane. There is a grub screw in the P bracket.

It's worth considering replacing the shaft as if there has been a lot of play on the bearing it has probably worn a grove in the shaft. a new shaft is about £60 but remember to take the old shaft and propeller to the machine shop so that the taper and keyway are machined right.

The job is easy and the only problem is removing the old bearing, so you need a good puller or carfully cut the bearing without damaging the P bracket and collapse it on itself. Other than that give the shaft/gearbox coupling a spray with release oil a few days before.

 

[najsmith]

Where could I get a professional extraction tool from.

Not sure I want to remove the prop as I'll have to remove the rudder...

 

[Gelfi]

I pesume you mean the prop shaft rather than the propellor as you have to remove this to change the cutlass bearing. You will have to make a puller out of a split pipe andthreaded bolts though two steel plates. It's worth removing and checking the shaft for damage especialy if it has been making a noise for some time.