Transom strength

Canopy Locked

Canopy Locked

Well-Known Member
Joined
5 Dec 2006
Messages
1,115
Location
Nth East Scotland
Visit site
Appreciate that O/B's don't feature much here, but this is more to do with strength and hoping that a few people will have some opinions / advice.

Current boat has an O/B (60hp). When mounted they used a transom pad underneath the O/B bracket - I need to move the engine forward by around the thickness of the pad (reason unimportant) and I'm thinking that having a pad under the bracket, whilst preventing the gelcoat getting damaged is not really necessary. I think, if I wanted to spread the load of the nuts, I'd do better having a plate on the inside of the boat.

What are your views on an external pad under the bracket of an outboard?
 
Canopy Locked said:
Appreciate that O/B's don't feature much here, but this is more to do with strength and hoping that a few people will have some opinions / advice.

Current boat has an O/B (60hp). When mounted they used a transom pad underneath the O/B bracket - I need to move the engine forward by around the thickness of the pad (reason unimportant) and I'm thinking that having a pad under the bracket, whilst preventing the gelcoat getting damaged is not really necessary. I think, if I wanted to spread the load of the nuts, I'd do better having a plate on the inside of the boat.

What are your views on an external pad under the bracket of an outboard?
Click to expand...

I've used something similar to this but in stainless steel...

Accessory page - Accessories - Yamaha Motor
 
Hot Property said:
I've used something similar to this but in stainless steel...

Accessory page - Accessories - Yamaha Motor
Click to expand...

Thanks - does that go on the inside of the transomwhere the nuts bolt down?

simonfraser said:
the OB is pushing into the transom so i'd want at least a SS plate to spread the load on the GRP, like this:

View attachment 202990
Click to expand...

That's exactly what is currently on the boat. My issue is that the steering arm is fouling against the edge of the O/B well and I really need top move the whole unit forward by around 5mm - roughly the thichness of the existing plastic pad. Pics follow. Thanks for the input
 
Here's some pics of my issue

The steering arm fouls the edge of the stern well, when steering, except when trimmed fully down.

ob2.jpg



Outboard with pad on the outside of the trans


ob1.jpg




My thinking is that I have 4 options

1. Sand out some of the gel coat where the steering arm rubs to creatye a bit of extra room. Against this idea is that it will look rubbish and won't give much more room

2. In combination with 1, use a thinner nut and grind off the excess thread. How can the nut be secured without a nylock?

3. Remove the pad; allow the frame of the O/b to sit against the transom and put a spreader pad on the inner wall

4. Remove the existing transome pad and fit an angle pad, very thin at the top and thicker at the bottom to effectivley allow the motor to move forward a few mm and change the angle of the transom bracket to that it would help "pivot" it forwards. My issue with this idea is that I just cannot tell if changing the angle would help pivot the top of the bracket forwards.
When it comes to visulising things, I'm not very good at it!

Thanks for any suggestions
 

Attachments

  • ob3.jpg
    ob3.jpg
    161.7 KB · Views: 5
The stainless arm looks far too long for that outboard. Is it the correct one for the engine?

Option 3 above is probably the least worst solution but you need a corresponding plate on the inboard side of the transom to spread the load.

Could you lift the engine a couple of holes? That should give a bit more space...
 
Hot Property said:
The stainless arm looks far too long for that outboard. Is it the correct one for the engine?

Option 3 above is probably the least worst solution but you need a corresponding plate on the inboard side of the transom to spread the load.

Could you lift the engine a couple of holes? That should give a bit more space...
Click to expand...
That's the arm that was on the engine - will investgate a shorter arm but surely that will reduce the steering arc? - zero possiblity of moving the engine up
 
It's a Westport Pilot 6 - Originally fited with a Honda - The idea is the steering arm goes into the recess on the port side of the well. Sorry no pics of the original ebngine fitting
 
I think the first rule is to find what outboard power the boat is rated for....if it’s been re-engined by a previous owner it might just be too heavy or too powerful....it’s not just the about spreading the load to a backing plate...the transom connection to the boat could also be under strain. In older boats the transom can go soft over time...but probably not something to worry about
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top