Transducer siting

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Dino0808

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I have a transom mount transducer which i've tried unsuccessfully to mount inside my hull (LM27) with silicone.
I have made sure that it gives a reading in water but i am having trouble getting a reading through the hull.It may be that i can't press it hard enough or get it flat enough,the transducer's base is slightly curved although i did get a reading from somewhere i don't want to fix it!
I know i've got to use epoxy but i'm worried that once i've done all that,it may not work still and it's fixed down permanently.Does anyone think that once it is down with epoxy that it will clearly sound through the hull and i'm worrying unneccessarily,or must i persevere until i get a reading and mount it there. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Some people find it does not work at all, others that it is ok for finding a good spot for proper mounting while others use it permanently. In any event worth a go.

The water bag is suggested by a number of manufacturers, but it is even more hit and miss than plasticine.
 
If it is a transom mount transducer it is not likely to work as a through hull transducer as the amplitude of the signal will not be sufficient.
 
Havn't you been reading the replies to your previous post ?.
the transducer must have a sound acoustic attachment to hull not nessesarily solid mechanically but must be mounted vertically to read accuratly. find a spot as clear of obstruction as posible ie as far clear of keels and still beneath the waterline /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Havn't you been reading the replies to your previous post ?.
the transducer must have a sound acoustic attachment to hull not nessesarily solid mechanically but must be mounted vertically to read accuratly. find a spot as clear of obstruction as posible ie as far clear of keels and still beneath the waterline /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

I did read them but as i say i've been struggling just to get a reading flat against the hull because of the curved base to the transducer.I just wanted to see if anyone else had had these problems and how they overcame them.
I wasn't ignoring previous replies.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Havn't you been reading the replies to your previous post ?.
the transducer must have a sound acoustic attachment to hull not nessesarily solid mechanically but must be mounted vertically to read accuratly. find a spot as clear of obstruction as posible ie as far clear of keels and still beneath the waterline /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

I did read them but as i say i've been struggling just to get a reading flat against the hull because of the curved base to the transducer.I just wanted to see if anyone else had had these problems and how they overcame them.
I wasn't ignoring previous replies.

[/ QUOTE ]

hence the oil filled into a vertically mounted tube betom end of tube cut to mimic hull contuors and sealed around mating surface with epoxy paste/glue and oil in DIRECT CONTACT with inner urface of hull and clean surface of transducer maintaining an acoustically sound contact ie no damping air pockets between transducer and sea bed
hope that this clears things up e-mail me if you need a diaghram to explain
 
Doggy Dave is right. The oil filled tube method will probably give you the best signal, but you must first find an area of the hull bottom that allows the signal to pass. Any voids in the hull layup will lose you the signal, as will very thick areas of layup such as the region close to the keel.
My own method was to stick the transducer down with Blue Tack which works just like plasticene but is slightly sticky so that it stays in place. You may have to try several places before you find one that works. Do not expect to be able to get readings at great depth, my fish finder transducer only works down to 20 metres this way, whereas the through hull transducer on the main depth sounder works to between 60 and 80 metres depending on the type of sea bottom.
 
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